Overclockers Australia Forums
OCAU News - Wiki - QuickLinks - Pix - Sponsors  

Go Back   Overclockers Australia Forums > Specific Hardware Topics > Storage & Backup

Notices


Sign up for a free OCAU account and this ad will go away!
Search our forums with Google:
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 3rd May 2012, 1:49 AM   #1
rubixcube Thread Starter
Member
 
rubixcube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 73
Default samsung 1tb drive wont power on

Hey all

Was working on my new pc tonight and something somewhere along the line managed to short -- one of my seagate 500's and my samsung 1tb got wrecked. the seagate shorts out whatever you plug it into (dock, PC).. the samsung doesn't cause as much of a hissy fit but it just wont power up.

The contents of the samsung drive are important (sentimentally) as it contains every single photo I've ever taken digitally (about 7 years worth). Obviously I should know the importance of keeping backups, and I was going to get a new 2TB drive soon, but really when you are just doing something as simple as swapping drives between PCs you dont expect 2 of your drives to be killed in the process.

Anyone have any experience in this and could suggest a solution?

Thanks
__________________
Desktop: i5 4670K @ Stock | XSPC Photon D5 w/ Koolance 240 rad | MSI Z87 M-POWER | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | EVGA GTX780 ACX | Sandisk 240GB | Seasonic X650 | Corsair 600T White
Lanbox: i5 4670K @ 4.5ghz | CM Hyper212 | Asrock Z87E-ITX | Kingston Fury 8GB | EVGA GTX770 ACX SC | Intel 60GB | Silverstone 600W | Bitfenix Prodigy Green
rubixcube is offline   Reply With Quote

Join OCAU to remove this ad!
Old 3rd May 2012, 2:23 AM   #2
Renza
Member
 
Renza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Adelaide, 5051
Posts: 3,461
Default

how much is the data worth to you? Might be worth getting someone to recover the data for you, theres an OCAU sponsor (DataRetreiver) that does this. Probably wont be cheap but no harm in asking for a quote.

You can try source a board from an identical drive and move the EEPROM chip over and see if that will work.

This is the part where you usually take out the backups and restore them. note the plural. If its important then you need multiple copies if it. You never expect anything to die... lesson is, always have a contingency plan!
__________________
i7 3770K @ 4.5ghz | AsRock Z77 Professional | 16gb Corsair Vengence 1600mhz | Gigabyte GTX580 | Seasonic X750 | Silverstone TJ07 | Crucial M4 256GB | 2x Dell 2407WFP
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L | Canon EF 17-40 f/4L | Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 | Canon EX-580II | Manfrotto 190 Pro B
Traded over $22,000 on OCAU! - PM for recent traders

Last edited by Renza; 3rd May 2012 at 2:28 AM.
Renza is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3rd May 2012, 9:04 AM   #3
rowan194
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,973
Default

Do you know what caused the shorts? Perhaps using a molex "Y" adaptor which ended up plugged in the wrong way, or a modular PSU which lets you plug things in backwards?

If you're lucky it may just be that the sacrificial components on the HD PCB designed to protect against this scenario (12V applied to the 5V rail) did their job. Sometimes removing (diode for clamping) or replacing (fusible link) these components will bring the drive back to life... but there's also a risk that removing these protective components may cause further electrical damage to the PCB.

If there's damage beyond the protection components you may need a PCB swap as suggested by Renza, which does complicate things. Either way, if the data is important, it's probably worth getting a pro to look at it.
rowan194 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3rd May 2012, 12:54 PM   #4
rubixcube Thread Starter
Member
 
rubixcube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 73
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rowan194 View Post
Do you know what caused the shorts? Perhaps using a molex "Y" adaptor which ended up plugged in the wrong way, or a modular PSU which lets you plug things in backwards?

If you're lucky it may just be that the sacrificial components on the HD PCB designed to protect against this scenario (12V applied to the 5V rail) did their job. Sometimes removing (diode for clamping) or replacing (fusible link) these components will bring the drive back to life... but there's also a risk that removing these protective components may cause further electrical damage to the PCB.

If there's damage beyond the protection components you may need a PCB swap as suggested by Renza, which does complicate things. Either way, if the data is important, it's probably worth getting a pro to look at it.
I have no idea what caused it, I wasn't using Y adapters, just a regular SATA daisy chain, and my modular PSU prevents things being plugged in backwards.

I can't really afford to have a pro look at it, I don't have any money to my name

What kind of thing should I be looking for on the PCB ? could it be on the underside?
__________________
Desktop: i5 4670K @ Stock | XSPC Photon D5 w/ Koolance 240 rad | MSI Z87 M-POWER | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | EVGA GTX780 ACX | Sandisk 240GB | Seasonic X650 | Corsair 600T White
Lanbox: i5 4670K @ 4.5ghz | CM Hyper212 | Asrock Z87E-ITX | Kingston Fury 8GB | EVGA GTX770 ACX SC | Intel 60GB | Silverstone 600W | Bitfenix Prodigy Green
rubixcube is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3rd May 2012, 12:59 PM   #5
Jaco
Member
 
Jaco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 4077.AH / 4170.BH
Posts: 60
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rubixcube View Post
I have no idea what caused it, I wasn't using Y adapters, just a regular SATA daisy chain, and my modular PSU prevents things being plugged in backwards.

I can't really afford to have a pro look at it, I don't have any money to my name

What kind of thing should I be looking for on the PCB ? could it be on the underside?
You can usually source a whole new PCB from places like ebay etc, just enter the drives model number and make sure you get the correct one
__________________
Gaming: i7 950 / GB X58A-UD7 / 24GB Ram / 120GB SSD / 2x1TB WD Black / HD7850 / Fractal R4 / 750w

Server: i7 950 / GB X58A-UD5 / 6GB Ram / 64GB SSD / 8x3TB / LSI 9280-16 / HD5450 / Bitfenix Shinobi / 1200w
Jaco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3rd May 2012, 2:59 PM   #6
rubixcube Thread Starter
Member
 
rubixcube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 73
Default

ok so I did a bit of googling and found that I should measure the TVS diodes near the power connector with a multimeter.

heres a pic of mine
http://i.imgur.com/Zs9mq.jpg

busted out the meter, and put it on diode test mode.
the lower one reads a constant 1 in one direction, then 715 in the other, which I am led to believe is 'normal'.
the top one however, is jumping around all over the place then settling at about 001-002 in BOTH directions. Am I safe to assume this means it's buggered and needs to be cut off?

edit: also measured them both on resistance mode at 200, the bottom one doesnt change from the default "1---" in both directions (over range?), the top one reads anywhere from 2-6ohms in both directions.
also, the 0 Ohm resistor above the top diode is reading "1---" when tested.
__________________
Desktop: i5 4670K @ Stock | XSPC Photon D5 w/ Koolance 240 rad | MSI Z87 M-POWER | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | EVGA GTX780 ACX | Sandisk 240GB | Seasonic X650 | Corsair 600T White
Lanbox: i5 4670K @ 4.5ghz | CM Hyper212 | Asrock Z87E-ITX | Kingston Fury 8GB | EVGA GTX770 ACX SC | Intel 60GB | Silverstone 600W | Bitfenix Prodigy Green

Last edited by rubixcube; 3rd May 2012 at 3:18 PM.
rubixcube is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3rd May 2012, 6:05 PM   #7
rowan194
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,973
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rubixcube View Post
also, the 0 Ohm resistor above the top diode is reading "1---" when tested.
What happens when the multimeter contacts aren't touching anything? Does it show 1--- or something else? A 0 ohm resistor (or rather a fuse) should definitely be showing a very low range value (like 0.0xxx), so it's possible it's gone open circuit.

Did you find anything for your specific model of HD? Generally, you'd bridge the 0 ohm resistor, and possibly remove one or more of the TVS diodes.
rowan194 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 3rd May 2012, 6:54 PM   #8
rubixcube Thread Starter
Member
 
rubixcube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 73
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rowan194 View Post
What happens when the multimeter contacts aren't touching anything? Does it show 1--- or something else? A 0 ohm resistor (or rather a fuse) should definitely be showing a very low range value (like 0.0xxx), so it's possible it's gone open circuit.

Did you find anything for your specific model of HD? Generally, you'd bridge the 0 ohm resistor, and possibly remove one or more of the TVS diodes.
when the contacts are in air it shows 1---

is it possible the TVS diode AND the zero ohm are both cooked? Or the diode is affecting the resistor reading? The diode closest to the resistor was the one giving shonky readings.

Bridging the 0-ohm resistor should be easy, just a small piece of solid wire from one side to the other yes? I have a low power soldering iron that shouldn't damage any heat sensitive components. How do I go about removing the diode, too? Even if it might not be fried (but I suspect it is), I figure it doesn't matter if I remove it since all it does is provide protection. I'm planning on using a different PSU and buying a spare drive to immediately clone the contents.

Yeah I found a couple of things for the samsung but nobody seems to provide a definitive result. Just "thanks solved!" or "yeah I cut off a diode"
__________________
Desktop: i5 4670K @ Stock | XSPC Photon D5 w/ Koolance 240 rad | MSI Z87 M-POWER | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | EVGA GTX780 ACX | Sandisk 240GB | Seasonic X650 | Corsair 600T White
Lanbox: i5 4670K @ 4.5ghz | CM Hyper212 | Asrock Z87E-ITX | Kingston Fury 8GB | EVGA GTX770 ACX SC | Intel 60GB | Silverstone 600W | Bitfenix Prodigy Green

Last edited by rubixcube; 3rd May 2012 at 7:04 PM.
rubixcube is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4th May 2012, 11:10 AM   #9
rowan194
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,973
Default

I'd guess "1---" on the display is signalling that the multimeter can't autorange as it can't sense any resistance at all, which would mean your 0 ohm resistor is open circuit (blown)

I'd probably be a bit more conservative here: rather than simply bridging it with a bit of wire, I would place a normal fuse between the two contacts, say a 2A or 2.5A. (Try fast blow first, then slow if it blows immediately.) It will be a little unwieldy as you'll have to run two wires from those tiny pads up to a relatively large fuse, but it's a bit safer than a straight bridge... if there's a short elsewhere on the PCB there is no further protection so you may find a chip smoking or your power cable insulation melting.

You should be able to remove the diode by alternately heating the ends of it (couple of seconds each, repeat) and gently pulling the diode up with some tweezers or needle nosed pliers. If that doesn't work, you could try cutting it through the middle with wire snippers, but take care as this could damage the pads or any tracks under it.

Since it's in the "power" section the PCB tracks are likely to be thicker, which will sink more heat, so you may need some additional time to heat the pad enough that the solder melts.
rowan194 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4th May 2012, 2:02 PM   #10
rubixcube Thread Starter
Member
 
rubixcube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 73
Default

Fuses like this one?
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...e&form=KEYWORD

I'll head to jaycar on the weekend and check it out. Might get some flush cutters too if I can't get the diode off. Once its off, does the gap it leaves need to be bridged?
Sincere thanks for your help btw

Edit:
Oh, seriously dumb question coming up..
Pretty sure I'm measuring in the right place...
Zero ohm resistor measurements are taken either side of the tiny 0 on the solder spots yes?
Excuse my ignorance. The diodes were easy because they are big
__________________
Desktop: i5 4670K @ Stock | XSPC Photon D5 w/ Koolance 240 rad | MSI Z87 M-POWER | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | EVGA GTX780 ACX | Sandisk 240GB | Seasonic X650 | Corsair 600T White
Lanbox: i5 4670K @ 4.5ghz | CM Hyper212 | Asrock Z87E-ITX | Kingston Fury 8GB | EVGA GTX770 ACX SC | Intel 60GB | Silverstone 600W | Bitfenix Prodigy Green

Last edited by rubixcube; 4th May 2012 at 2:09 PM.
rubixcube is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4th May 2012, 11:05 PM   #11
rowan194
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,973
Default

Yep, you measure with the probes sitting on each solder spot.

DON'T bridge the diodes as that will most likely create a short circuit and will immediately blow your fuse. Just leave them off.
rowan194 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4th May 2012, 11:08 PM   #12
rubixcube Thread Starter
Member
 
rubixcube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 73
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rowan194 View Post
Yep, you measure with the probes sitting on each solder spot.

DON'T bridge the diodes as that will most likely create a short circuit and will immediately blow your fuse. Just leave them off.
excellent. I'll head to jaycar sunday and let you know how i go. thanks mate
__________________
Desktop: i5 4670K @ Stock | XSPC Photon D5 w/ Koolance 240 rad | MSI Z87 M-POWER | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | EVGA GTX780 ACX | Sandisk 240GB | Seasonic X650 | Corsair 600T White
Lanbox: i5 4670K @ 4.5ghz | CM Hyper212 | Asrock Z87E-ITX | Kingston Fury 8GB | EVGA GTX770 ACX SC | Intel 60GB | Silverstone 600W | Bitfenix Prodigy Green
rubixcube is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th May 2012, 4:49 PM   #13
rubixcube Thread Starter
Member
 
rubixcube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 73
Default

So, here's the contraption and the location its going.
http://imgur.com/a/Tw6Ws
Correct?
Wanted to check before I went ahead.
Thanks
__________________
Desktop: i5 4670K @ Stock | XSPC Photon D5 w/ Koolance 240 rad | MSI Z87 M-POWER | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | EVGA GTX780 ACX | Sandisk 240GB | Seasonic X650 | Corsair 600T White
Lanbox: i5 4670K @ 4.5ghz | CM Hyper212 | Asrock Z87E-ITX | Kingston Fury 8GB | EVGA GTX770 ACX SC | Intel 60GB | Silverstone 600W | Bitfenix Prodigy Green
rubixcube is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th May 2012, 4:57 PM   #14
mike-s
Member
 
mike-s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,850
Default

Personally I'd just pony up the money for a new pcb and avoid the risk of nuking the drive due to the lack of backup, but that's me I guess. Have done it a couple of times with success in the past.

Will watch with interest however. Good luck.
__________________
Successfull trades: RakOon, drfbro, mR_CaESaR, Spyfox
If I've got crap for sale on ebay you like, click here.
Old hardware giveaway thread here.
Sony Vaio Club Member #21
mike-s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th May 2012, 7:15 PM   #15
rowan194
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,973
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rubixcube View Post
So, here's the contraption and the location its going.
http://imgur.com/a/Tw6Ws
Yep, looks good. Don't forget to remove the diodes. Also minimal contact of the soldering iron on the PCB, just enough to melt it.
rowan194 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Sign up for a free OCAU account and this ad will go away!

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +10. The time now is 4:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. -
OCAU is not responsible for the content of individual messages posted by others.
Other content copyright Overclockers Australia.
OCAU is hosted by Internode!