HOWTO: Create your own PCBs on the cheap! - Page 13

dakiller · 22nd July 2010, 8:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockofclay

So I've bought a bunch of gear now (Including a reflow station) and I'm eager to get started.

I've designed my board in Kicad, and It's a double sided. I have a few sockets and pin headers I'd like to have connected to the top layer, but as I can't diy through hole plating, I'm a bit stuck.

Would saturating the pads top of the board with solder paste work?

Probably not. There is a high chance that the solder will just sit on the pads and not get to your pins.

The way I do it is to make my own vias, so right next to or even on top of the pad in question, you make a via hole and solder in a wire link from top to bottom and solder that in, hand file the top to flatten it out if needed and then solder the part in on the bottom to the wire link

Quote:

Originally Posted by myforwik

I don't know why anyone would make their own PCB's anymore. I used to do it but it just isn't worth it. I mean just the cost of blank copper clad PCB's and some chemicals is almost more than having the PCB made. I find that a few months in the cupboard the chemicals become useless etc. There are plenty of companies that will spit out pcb's for chips, like the OP's circuit board you could get done for $25 easily.

Totally agree, making good pcb's is so hit and miss that I would rather make a nicer tighter layout and get it fabbed, for the little extra you spend it cuts out so much hassle

dohzer · 22nd July 2010, 10:30 PM

Often it's a lead time thing.
Sure, getting PCBs manufactured isn't that expensive anymore, but if you need a simple board really quickly, you end up paying for it (unless I'm missing some special cheap and rapid service a company is offering).

rockofclay · 23rd July 2010, 1:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dohzer

Often it's a lead time thing.
Sure, getting PCBs manufactured isn't that expensive anymore, but if you need a simple board really quickly, you end up paying for it (unless I'm missing some special cheap and rapid service a company is offering).

I'm building a UAVP board for a quadrocopter, I'll probably avoid the hassle now for the main board, and get that ordered in. I'll still make a few breakouts for gyros and accelerometers though, as they're a lot simpler and like you say, I don't want to be waiting!

2xCPU · 23rd July 2010, 9:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myforwik

I don't know why anyone would make their own PCB's anymore.~
the OP's circuit board you could get done for $25 easily.

For me, it's a number of factors starting with lead time.
$25 will get one small single sided board with no solder mask or silk screen.

I can make that in 30 min.

To me, the greatest benefit of a 'manufactured' board is plated through holes and solder mask - you don't get either for $25.

As soon as you need multiple boards, the numbers improve rapidly.
There is no way I'd bother making ten boards (even five), but for a one-off, I can't justify $60 for a 25x50mm board.

2.

NanoDuke · 4th August 2011, 7:41 PM

Sorry for the year-old bump, but I just got a laser printer and want to try the toner transfer method.
Is HCl/Peroxide still the best method for etching?

Also where is the best place to buy copper boards from?

Jaycar has large boards, but they seem overpriced for their size. Maybe eBay (China?) is the best option?
Bonus points if someone can find a bunch of pre-cut boards about the size of a match-box

Failing that I'll just cut my own from a large sheet.

Symon · 5th August 2011, 8:22 AM

Probably years overdue, but I have stickied this thread

1800-gumby · 5th August 2011, 9:04 AM

Honestly with the price iTead does boards for I'll never try and etch another board again. A through hole plated and masked board makes soldering soooooooo much easier.

shadowtec · 6th August 2011, 9:58 PM

Hi all...

I think it is the first time I have posted on OCA

just under 2 years ago I brought a cnc kit from Zentoolworks.

Because of reallife stuff it took a while to get it going

and this is where I have gotten up to with milling SMT boards

this was before I made a new table for the machine because the one from the factory was warped (as you can tell with the board I milled)

as soon as I have some time I try to get it all sorted (back in April I brought a small reflow oven)

shadowtec · 15th June 2012, 11:19 AM

Well it's been a while since I been playing with pcb's and I got some new toys to solder with

this is a board I knocked up the other night (a simple pic circuit that flashes leds and output i2c)

I also brought this a year ago. it helps a lot with soldering

as long as you remember where the solder iron is in relation to your fingers

Thunder · 24th June 2012, 7:46 PM

I've just finished making a light box for making PCBs using the kinsten resist coated boards. It uses 168 straw hat UV Leds, wired 7 in series and powered by a 24 volt plug pack.

I've developed and etched one board with it so far. Exposure time is about 2 - 3 minutes, but I still need to do some experiments to work out the exact time required.

Click to view full-sized image!
Hosted by UGBox Image Store

rameshrai · 15th October 2012, 9:06 PM

great information, someday i will try this out..

ericks · 4th April 2013, 11:09 AM

Hi,

I normally use PressnPeel, it works well for small boards. But when i do large boards i struggle! End up having to make repairs with a permanent marker. Just did my first board on a cnc, have done a lot of other stuff like lables, gears, front panels etc.

I milled, rubbed out, drilled and cut out the pcb with the cnc. Used a 0.2mm v-bit, as you can imagine it took a while to rub out the left over copper...
The smallest tracks are 0.5mm, everything came out 100%.

Have images of the board, but it seems i am not allowed to post them atm...

*** This will be my new best option to do larger boards for once off projects...

Another "quick" option might be to use a permanent marker on the cnc, and plot the tracks... i might give this a go...

4th August 2011, 7:41 PM	#185
NanoDuke Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney 2043 Posts: 4,965	Sorry for the year-old bump, but I just got a laser printer and want to try the toner transfer method. Is HCl/Peroxide still the best method for etching? Also where is the best place to buy copper boards from? Jaycar has large boards, but they seem overpriced for their size. Maybe eBay (China?) is the best option? Bonus points if someone can find a bunch of pre-cut boards about the size of a match-box Failing that I'll just cut my own from a large sheet. __________________ Horize P170EM Laptop - i7-3630QM 2.4Ghz - 16GB DDR3 1600Mhz - 17.3-inch FHD LED 72% GAMUT MATTE - AMD RADEON HD7970M 2.0GB GDDR5

5th August 2011, 8:22 AM	#186
Symon (Plugging your Socket) Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Brisbane QLD Posts: 2,822	Probably years overdue, but I have stickied this thread __________________ DISCLAIMER - The mindless babble of this post does not constitute professional advice. I will not be held responsible if you choose to act on this advice. Unless I tell you to eat jellybeans, everyone likes jellybeans OCAU's self-appointed electrical safety expert - Founder of the bakasan Technical College - enrollments welcome. -- My Web Server in a Box

15th October 2012, 9:06 PM	#191
rameshrai Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 7	Re great information, someday i will try this out.. __________________ Proteus Professional \| Christopher Bowick-RF circuit design ebook \| Free EDA software and Ebook

22nd July 2010, 10:30 PM	#182
dohzer Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Melbourne Posts: 5,319	Often it's a lead time thing. Sure, getting PCBs manufactured isn't that expensive anymore, but if you need a simple board really quickly, you end up paying for it (unless I'm missing some special cheap and rapid service a company is offering).

5th August 2011, 9:04 AM	#187
1800-gumby Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Kenmore QLD Posts: 2,617	Honestly with the price iTead does boards for I'll never try and etch another board again. A through hole plated and masked board makes soldering soooooooo much easier.

6th August 2011, 9:58 PM	#188
shadowtec Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 10	Hi all... I think it is the first time I have posted on OCA just under 2 years ago I brought a cnc kit from Zentoolworks. Because of reallife stuff it took a while to get it going and this is where I have gotten up to with milling SMT boards this was before I made a new table for the machine because the one from the factory was warped (as you can tell with the board I milled) as soon as I have some time I try to get it all sorted (back in April I brought a small reflow oven)

15th June 2012, 11:19 AM	#189
shadowtec Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 10	Well it's been a while since I been playing with pcb's and I got some new toys to solder with this is a board I knocked up the other night (a simple pic circuit that flashes leds and output i2c) I also brought this a year ago. it helps a lot with soldering as long as you remember where the solder iron is in relation to your fingers

24th June 2012, 7:46 PM	#190
Thunder Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Brisbane Posts: 744	I've just finished making a light box for making PCBs using the kinsten resist coated boards. It uses 168 straw hat UV Leds, wired 7 in series and powered by a 24 volt plug pack. I've developed and etched one board with it so far. Exposure time is about 2 - 3 minutes, but I still need to do some experiments to work out the exact time required. Click to view full-sized image! Hosted by UGBox Image Store

4th April 2013, 11:09 AM	#192
ericks Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 3	Hi, I normally use PressnPeel, it works well for small boards. But when i do large boards i struggle! End up having to make repairs with a permanent marker. Just did my first board on a cnc, have done a lot of other stuff like lables, gears, front panels etc. I milled, rubbed out, drilled and cut out the pcb with the cnc. Used a 0.2mm v-bit, as you can imagine it took a while to rub out the left over copper... The smallest tracks are 0.5mm, everything came out 100%. Have images of the board, but it seems i am not allowed to post them atm... *** This will be my new best option to do larger boards for once off projects... Another "quick" option might be to use a permanent marker on the cnc, and plot the tracks... i might give this a go...