A few Q's regarding my PC button box project?

Caffeine Dealer · 29th June 2012, 8:52 PM

Hey guys, im hoping someone might be able to share some knowledge regarding the sort of project i have undertaken.

I'm using the PCB from a Logitech Wingman(read old) USB controller to make a mock USB button box for use on a racing simulator.
I have removed the pcb from the controller shell and located all the spots i can solder switches to but i need to know a few things.

Is it true that i can split the red wire in the USB cable and put a on/off switch in it? If so, is anything else needed(diodes or capacitors)?

I have a few momentary switches in my desk draw but when i did a quick test on them, they seemed to be in the "on" position by default as if they were being pressed in. This is only when i connect them to the A,B etc buttons. Is this right? I was under the impression that i should be using momentary switches for these? I know the switches work fine as they perform as intended when connected to the "trigger" points on the board.

Anyway...... if anyone has fooled around with a project like this, i would appreciate some feedback

P.S. I can put up a photo if needed.

Caffeine · 2nd July 2012, 4:12 PM

Switches can be 'NO' or 'NC' (normally open, or normally closed)

Sounds like you have some normally closed switches.

The red wire *should* be the power wire. It *should* be possible to put a switch in there to act as a power switch.

Having said that, when you switch it on using this method, the USB host (your PC, console or whatever) will need to enumerate the device before it will work. Some games will not recognise a device unless it has been enumerated before the game is started.

Caffeine Dealer · 2nd July 2012, 8:48 PM

Thanks Caffeine(so now i know who took my first preference for a name lol).

I had already ordered some more switches, hopefully they are what i need.
Ill report back and add some pics when i get a little further into the project

Caffeine Dealer · 3rd July 2012, 3:09 PM

After some actually soldering the switches to the board(instead of holding them) i found that they actually work just fine with the exception of the on/off toggle switch. I did not think it would work as a momentary button as i intended for it to be the power switch that i splice into the USB cable.

Thats the next thing i will try

GooSE · 3rd July 2012, 3:20 PM

You should be using a toggle switch for the power switch. SPST should work.

29th June 2012, 8:52 PM	#1
Caffeine Dealer Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Northern Rivers Posts: 1,789	A few Q's regarding my PC button box project? Hey guys, im hoping someone might be able to share some knowledge regarding the sort of project i have undertaken. I'm using the PCB from a Logitech Wingman(read old) USB controller to make a mock USB button box for use on a racing simulator. I have removed the pcb from the controller shell and located all the spots i can solder switches to but i need to know a few things. Is it true that i can split the red wire in the USB cable and put a on/off switch in it? If so, is anything else needed(diodes or capacitors)? I have a few momentary switches in my desk draw but when i did a quick test on them, they seemed to be in the "on" position by default as if they were being pressed in. This is only when i connect them to the A,B etc buttons. Is this right? I was under the impression that i should be using momentary switches for these? I know the switches work fine as they perform as intended when connected to the "trigger" points on the board. Anyway...... if anyone has fooled around with a project like this, i would appreciate some feedback P.S. I can put up a photo if needed. __________________ Rig 1: Xeon 2620, MSI X79, 16Gb GSkills 2133, Crossfire GB 7950's, TJ07, Agility 120gb. Full custom H20 Rig 2(Racing Sim): i7 3770k, 16gb Vengence white, ASrock Z77 Extreme-M, GB 7870, OCZ 60GB SSD, ~~Custom Water Cooling~~, SUGO9 m-ATX Case Rig 3: Hackintosh Last edited by Caffeine Dealer; 29th June 2012 at 9:00 PM.

2nd July 2012, 4:12 PM	#2
Caffeine Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sydney Posts: 1,194	Switches can be 'NO' or 'NC' (normally open, or normally closed) Sounds like you have some normally closed switches. The red wire should be the power wire. It should be possible to put a switch in there to act as a power switch. Having said that, when you switch it on using this method, the USB host (your PC, console or whatever) will need to enumerate the device before it will work. Some games will not recognise a device unless it has been enumerated before the game is started. __________________ Free LCD's all gone now... Last edited by Caffeine; 2nd July 2012 at 4:13 PM. Reason: Edit, cool name by the way :)

2nd July 2012, 8:48 PM	#3
Caffeine Dealer Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Northern Rivers Posts: 1,789	Thanks Caffeine(so now i know who took my first preference for a name lol). I had already ordered some more switches, hopefully they are what i need. Ill report back and add some pics when i get a little further into the project __________________ Rig 1: Xeon 2620, MSI X79, 16Gb GSkills 2133, Crossfire GB 7950's, TJ07, Agility 120gb. Full custom H20 Rig 2(Racing Sim): i7 3770k, 16gb Vengence white, ASrock Z77 Extreme-M, GB 7870, OCZ 60GB SSD, ~~Custom Water Cooling~~, SUGO9 m-ATX Case Rig 3: Hackintosh

3rd July 2012, 3:09 PM	#4
Caffeine Dealer Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Northern Rivers Posts: 1,789	After some actually soldering the switches to the board(instead of holding them) i found that they actually work just fine with the exception of the on/off toggle switch. I did not think it would work as a momentary button as i intended for it to be the power switch that i splice into the USB cable. Thats the next thing i will try __________________ Rig 1: Xeon 2620, MSI X79, 16Gb GSkills 2133, Crossfire GB 7950's, TJ07, Agility 120gb. Full custom H20 Rig 2(Racing Sim): i7 3770k, 16gb Vengence white, ASrock Z77 Extreme-M, GB 7870, OCZ 60GB SSD, ~~Custom Water Cooling~~, SUGO9 m-ATX Case Rig 3: Hackintosh

3rd July 2012, 3:20 PM	#5
GooSE Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Sydney Posts: 6,428	You should be using a toggle switch for the power switch. SPST should work.