Worklog: Massively (Update #59, 17th May - Pipe Polishing + Final Vengeful GF Comic)

[Moptimus]

Originally Posted by Saate

Thanks fellas!

Planning to do some more work on the PC tonight, made some cool progress with the customised ROG logo on the motherboard so should have something to show soon hopefully

Among the things I need to figure out, does anyone know:



I wouldnt mind removing the 'Koolance' logo on my CPU waterblock and the Heatkiller logo from the GPU backplates. I initially thought I could nickel plate the backplates but realised thats probably massive overkill if I can just use acetone or something to remove it. Any advice on this for or against?

I'd start with some orange spot remover or something first, then maybe metho, and finally acetone. Work your way up to the hardcore end of the solvent/alcohol spectrum.

I found that acetone striped the logos of my tj07 nicely.

[pieceofchance]

Originally Posted by Saate

[*]I wouldnt mind removing the 'Koolance' logo on my CPU waterblock and the Heatkiller logo from the GPU backplates. I initially thought I could nickel plate the backplates but realised thats probably massive overkill if I can just use acetone or something to remove it. Any advice on this for or against?[/LIST]

I have the same Koolance 370 block and happen to be using the AMD mounting, so happy to splash away haphazardly with the acetone on the intel mounting bracket and get back to you with results!

EDIT: yeah, no dice with the CPU block at least, they are etched in a few micron

[Saate]

Originally Posted by Huggy_Bear64

This bloke Has the best solution to that little memory problem I've yet seen. I'm sure you could carve them with a scrollsaw or something instead of laser cut, that could be a bit expensive.

As for removing the logos, I have no idea how they're printed on there, but I imagine some kind of nice solvent should do the job nicely. I agree that it would look a lot better if you could remove such logos.

Big thanks for the lead - will see where it goes

Originally Posted by pieceofchance

I have the same Koolance 370 block and happen to be using the AMD mounting, so happy to splash away haphazardly with the acetone on the intel mounting bracket and get back to you with results!

EDIT: yeah, no dice with the CPU block at least, they are etched in a few micron

Thanks so much for testing it out and letting me know! Guess I'll have to keep thinking

Originally Posted by Moptimus

I'd start with some orange spot remover or something first, then maybe metho, and finally acetone. Work your way up to the hardcore end of the solvent/alcohol spectrum.

I found that acetone striped the logos of my tj07 nicely.

Thanks mate, now that the CPU block appears to be a no-go I'll give the gradual stepup process a try on the backplates. The logo looks less permanent on those!

[the3coopers]

Originally Posted by Saate

Thanks mate, I’m glad I’ve been using the 12.7mm stuff for testing because I definitely need to manage the ripples! I’d assumed they were somewhat unavoidable because the excess material inside the bend had to go somewhere. Will have to do some more reading on ways to deal with them and some more 12.7mm bending practice to see what works and what doesn’t.

2 ways to minimise the ripples.

Firstly, as already mentioned, is to fill with sand. This is not easy because you cannot cap the ends... but you CAN fill then hammer the ends closed (see thread link further down)

The other way is to anneal the pipe. You are using hard drawn tubing, it needs to be annealed to make it soft. This video explains it...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jSz11lz8MA

And this thread has some really cool tips and links in it... just what you need...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1249297

If you anneal it properly, you won't really NEED to use a bender! Just remember - anneal > bend a bit > anneal > bend a bit more > anneal etc

If you make it too soft, it may crush - fill with sand and take it slow!

Using these methods properly and you will not get any "ripples" at all.

[Saate]

Originally Posted by the3coopers

Using these methods properly and you will not get any "ripples" at all.

Thanks mate, big help I know a guy who teaches refrigeration here in Canberra so might also enlist his help with the rippling, will keep you updated with how I go!

Quick sneaky shot of the video cards (with thanks to Dumpty and Dingo!), its pretty thrilling to have 100% of the components for the build now! Just waiting on the second GPU waterblock to arrive and then it's just acrylic and case work left

[WishBone17]

Originally Posted by Saate

Thanks mate, big help I know a guy who teaches refrigeration here in Canberra so might also enlist his help with the rippling, will keep you updated with how I go!

Quick sneaky shot of the video cards (with thanks to Dumpty and Dingo!), its pretty thrilling to have 100% of the components for the build now! Just waiting on the second GPU waterblock to arrive and then it's just acrylic and case work left


image

haha you went with the inno's good man. took our (my) advice!

[Saate]

Originally Posted by WishBone17

haha you went with the inno's good man. took our (my) advice!

Sure did, thanks again for the prompting Any advice on taking it apart to put the Heatkiller waterblock on? Seems like pretty logical steps from what I've read online, basically:

1. Remove stock air cooler
2. Apply thermal pads to card
3. attach waterblock + backplate

At step 2, if the chipset needs cleaning to remove thermal pad residue whats the safest way to approach that? anything else I need to consider?

[WishBone17]

Originally Posted by Saate

Sure did, thanks again for the prompting Any advice on taking it apart to put the Heatkiller waterblock on? Seems like pretty logical steps from what I've read online, basically:

1. Remove stock air cooler
2. Apply thermal pads to card
3. attach waterblock + backplate

At step 2, if the chipset needs cleaning to remove thermal pad residue whats the safest way to approach that? anything else I need to consider?

I've used this as a guide, i know your block is different but it will give you a good idea on how to pull the stock cooler off.



I've used cotton bud tips dip them in metho, then once all the gunk is off, i tend use isopro-alchohole.

[azalin79]

Regarding the tube bending mate and the ripple issue - the sand method seems like a workable idea. I know that plumbers also use certain spring sets that fit inside pipe to support it during bends. I personally never used them as I used " A grade" copper compared to their "B grade" copper ( my work uses the thickest wall copper)

Will see if I can find them for you and link you to them.

[DNX]

Nice

There you go http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...839562&page=53 full copper rad.

[Moptimus]

Originally Posted by azalin79

Regarding the tube bending mate and the ripple issue - the sand method seems like a workable idea. I know that plumbers also use certain spring sets that fit inside pipe to support it during bends. I personally never used them as I used " A grade" copper compared to their "B grade" copper ( my work uses the thickest wall copper)

Will see if I can find them for you and link you to them.

Bunnings has them. In the plumbing section. I use one when heat setting tube for short radius bends.

[the3coopers]

Originally Posted by azalin79

Regarding the tube bending mate and the ripple issue - the sand method seems like a workable idea. I know that plumbers also use certain spring sets that fit inside pipe to support it during bends. I personally never used them as I used " A grade" copper compared to their "B grade" copper ( my work uses the thickest wall copper)

Remember that the standard springs are 1/2" (12.7mm or so) and the OP is using 12mm (special tube). The springs may not work or fit properly as they woun't be tight against the tube walls.

When we re-plumbed our old house, the plumber used a standard tube bender with no sand etc. But he always annealed the pipe immediately before each bend. No kinks or ripples!

However, when using a "crush bender" like the OP has (a opposed to a mandrel bender) there is a significant reduction in overall tube diameter at the bend. Whether this actually matters or not is debatable.... too many things to consider re: flow, etc. We decided that for our house, since we have massive water pressure, it wouldn't matter and that using a sweep bend (curved on site) would still flow heaps better than a soldered-on 90 degree elbow fitting.

[BigDave]

Hey Saate i found this over on OCN might help you out?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101

[Saate]

Originally Posted by WishBone17

I've used this as a guide, i know your block is different but it will give you a good idea on how to pull the stock cooler off.

I've used cotton bud tips dip them in metho, then once all the gunk is off, i tend use isopro-alchohole.

Thanks for the video link, watched it and a bunch of others to get a good feel for how it was done. Took my time over the weekend and put waterblock + backplate on one of the 680's without too much trouble

Originally Posted by azalin79

Regarding the tube bending mate and the ripple issue - the sand method seems like a workable idea. I know that plumbers also use certain spring sets that fit inside pipe to support it during bends. I personally never used them as I used " A grade" copper compared to their "B grade" copper ( my work uses the thickest wall copper)

Will see if I can find them for you and link you to them.

Originally Posted by Moptimus

Bunnings has them. In the plumbing section. I use one when heat setting tube for short radius bends.

Originally Posted by the3coopers

Remember that the standard springs are 1/2" (12.7mm or so) and the OP is using 12mm (special tube). The springs may not work or fit properly as they woun't be tight against the tube walls.

When we re-plumbed our old house, the plumber used a standard tube bender with no sand etc. But he always annealed the pipe immediately before each bend. No kinks or ripples!

However, when using a "crush bender" like the OP has (a opposed to a mandrel bender) there is a significant reduction in overall tube diameter at the bend. Whether this actually matters or not is debatable.... too many things to consider re: flow, etc. We decided that for our house, since we have massive water pressure, it wouldn't matter and that using a sweep bend (curved on site) would still flow heaps better than a soldered-on 90 degree elbow fitting.

Thanks for all the advice guys! Have done a lot more reading and will do some experimentation soon, I think I may try to borrow another set of benders from someone just in case that makes any immediate/obvious difference first. Then I'll look into annealing and the rest of it from there. I had a look at springs in my local hardware store yesterday and saw they only seemed to have 'over' springs that cover the pipe instead of going inside it which I found interesting - guessing they're more appropriate for the coiled copper though. It's fun learning about this stuff, I enjoy the depth and complexity of the topic so will definitely continue reading up and listening to advice while I'm working through it!

Originally Posted by DNX

Nice

There you go http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...839562&page=53 full copper rad.

Man that'd give me nightmares I love love love how copper looks but knowing (and experiencing!) how easy it is to mark up with a single touch of your finger it'd be too much having a radiator made out of it I think. The worst part is you never know at the time, but a week later there'll be an ugly blemish to remind you!

Looking at that radiator I noticed they include a set of gloves for handling it so there must not be a clear protective coat I think? Either way, beautiful piece but I wouldnt trust myself to not accidently touch it

Originally Posted by BigDave

Hey Saate i found this over on OCN might help you out?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101

Interesting read so far and exactly the kind of thing I need, thanks mate

[CaidsTech]

Originally Posted by Saate

That's it for the moment, keen to hear what you guys think!

I've been in Thailand and I've missed out on so much! Just need you to know I have the weirdest boner right now..