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#4711 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,970
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Thanks for that! It's a 4' x 18" x 20" I think, so according to the calculators I used online about 75 gallons (260ltrs or so).
So, hmm. 2 x 300w would be required to keep it at around 25c. Thanks for the information! |
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#4712 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD
Posts: 4,100
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If you haven't purchased heaters yet, I'd go for 2x 200W (or even 2x 150's depending on where you are in the country and how cold your winters are). Having two heaters is a good thing in case the thermostat goes in one and it doesn't turn on - the problem is, if you've got double the heating you need and a thermostat gets stuck on, you've got some cooked fish.
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Biotope Aquaria flickr: 815L Rio Madeira, Brazil Biotope + old setups. Hardware: Z77 Sabretooth, 3770K, GTX680, Xonar ST-X, Fractal Define XL, HX1050, Vertex II/IV. Peripherals: Das Professional, Sensei Pro, QcK+, ATH-AD700 |
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#4713 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,970
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Are the heaters usually on during the day only?
I'm in Adelaide so I guess I can count on not much use in the summer. And maybe the tank is big enough to help keep the tiled, open area warm during winter! I've got a canister filter coming so would 2-drop in heaters be the best complement for it? 2 x these, for instance? http://thereefshop.com.au/index.php?...products_id=54 (first google result for 200w tank heater) |
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#4714 | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD
Posts: 4,100
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Quote:
Heaters run on thermostats and are plugged in 24/7, so whenever it's required - usually on/off during the night, and on/off even less during the day. They usually wont run flat out unless your heating is underpowered or it's a ridiculously cold night.
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Biotope Aquaria flickr: 815L Rio Madeira, Brazil Biotope + old setups. Hardware: Z77 Sabretooth, 3770K, GTX680, Xonar ST-X, Fractal Define XL, HX1050, Vertex II/IV. Peripherals: Das Professional, Sensei Pro, QcK+, ATH-AD700 |
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#4715 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 157
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O_O over kill? I heat 600 gallons with 1 300W and 1000G system with 300W also. holds the temp at 26. I do heat the room also but you can easily get away with a 150W jager in a 4x18x20. just put it in front of the filter out take to push water around it.
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#4716 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 6,285
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Optimus, as japes said you don't need 2 heaters but if you have 2 and one packs up, you've got the other to continue. I estimated 300W for your tank because it's a bit bigger than my 250 litre. I've had a single 200W in there and it's done the job fine. I've just added a second for redundancy. As I understand it, heaters can fail. Now that my original one has been doing its job for a while, I feel better knowing there's another in there if (when?) it finally packs up.
Having your tank might stop your room getting colder, but I doubt you'll feel any warmth from it. If you set it at 23/24 it won't be really warm, just not cold. My betta tanks are warmer - set to 26 and they feel warmish if you feel the glass, but they don't generate heat where you'd feel it without sticking your hand in their water. |
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#4717 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hobart, La La Land
Posts: 4,938
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Optimus my tank (300 litres) does take the cold edge off my flat and my heaters are rated at less than 150 watts
(undergravel and heated cannister) which breaks the rule. Yes I have noticed a small increase in my power usage since I replaced a standard 3 foot but I doubled my filtration, water volume and lighting.
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#4718 | |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sydney
Posts: 850
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Quote:
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My pics @Photobucket |
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#4719 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,970
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Excellent, thanks for the advice all!
We have a few of the usual goldfish breeds that'll be the first inhabitants so I'm asking about heating now to see whether it's worthwhile moving straight to a tropical freshwater setup with the new tank. We have a hefty solar system here so I'm not too worried about power usage now that I know the system regulates when it's on or off. Thanks for clarifying that. The room heating statement was a tad tounge in cheek - in any case I think the area will be too big to help (plus it'll be parked next to the open staircase). ![]() Quote:
On another note, has anyone seen or heard about automated water testing bits that you can connect to with bluetooth or wifi? I'd love to have my small home server picking up temperature alerts, nitrite and ammonia levels etc as an early warning system. Last edited by Optimus.; 29th July 2012 at 9:30 PM. |
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#4720 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 6,285
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Quote:
I don't think they'd have those for testing ammonia or nitrite. You have to mix up reagents with the tank water in a test tube. They do have dip sticks, but they aren't as accurate as the liquid test kits. A warning system shouldn't be necessary. Nothing (other than a heater failure) "just happens", it's part of a process and you control the process (after you've got a cycled tank, that is) by not overstocking, not overfeeding, and regular water changes. You can get ammonia spikes, but it'll be because of something you do, like chucking in a whole heap of fish all at once, or leaving a dead fish in there or something. |
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#4721 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,049
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Well the tank is about 36 hours old now, sold the G3 and recouped the cost of the whole setup.
I CAUGHT MY BRAIN CORALS EATING THIS MORNING!!!!!!! (I didnt buy corals for a cycling tank, just was lucky enough to score a bunch on some sexy live rock) So excited! I got my first reading of ammonia yesterday so did a 15% waterchange, Klaus the clown didnt like it at first but was super active after 30mins. Been logging pictures each day to monitor progress, of the hard corals that came with the live rock and they're getting more vibrant each day; the goal is to put in the hard yards to save corals/clown through the cycling process. Will try and get some pictures up later today.
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#4722 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 7,255
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I got a small tank for housing RCS, my aim is to have the shrimp outside unmanaged.
How well will they fare with no filtration?
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#4723 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD
Posts: 4,100
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The no filtration will be fine, will be the temperature that gets them.
__________________
Biotope Aquaria flickr: 815L Rio Madeira, Brazil Biotope + old setups. Hardware: Z77 Sabretooth, 3770K, GTX680, Xonar ST-X, Fractal Define XL, HX1050, Vertex II/IV. Peripherals: Das Professional, Sensei Pro, QcK+, ATH-AD700 |
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#4724 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 7,255
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Otherwise in the sump, but the pump will get them...
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www.tangcla.com - photography Canon 5D Mark III x2 | 16-35mm f/2.8L | 24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS 100mm f/2.8L IS macro | 580EX-II x2 | 430EX-II | PocketWizard TT1/TT5 |
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#4725 | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 157
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Quote:
a heater you stick onto the glass, I would attach it right next to the power head or w.e so you get a flow over your heater creating a equal temp faster without having to run 2 heaters. |
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