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Old 15th August 2012, 11:17 PM   #31
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That's optimistic!
Yeah I may have been a bit light on that number
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Old 16th August 2012, 12:14 AM   #32
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This is sweet. I have just made a start on a "Predator" helmet, thanks to seeing this.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product
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Old 16th August 2012, 1:52 AM   #33
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This is sweet. I have just made a start on a "Predator" helmet, thanks to seeing this.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product
OOH OOH gimme a look!!! Link?

Baz.
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Old 16th August 2012, 1:56 AM   #34
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I would chalk it up to experience, keep it as a display mask and start a new one. Check the 405th forums for threads on scaling.

Every mask you make will be an improvement on the last. Same goes for everything I guess.

Baz.
Mmm I should although my original intention was for an upcoming convention. I feel pretty proud just completing the base itself though. :P

Had a dig around the 405th on regards with scaling, seems rather in depth but will probably try clay since it wont damage the base. They've pretty much covered every other way possible from what else I saw which gives me alternatives if clay should fail. I guess there might be time for a mark II somewhere in the future hehe.

Cheers for the heads up for the site.
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Old 16th August 2012, 3:31 PM   #35
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OOH OOH gimme a look!!! Link?

Baz.
Here's the design http://www.thehunterslair.com/topic/...-bio-pepakura/

No pics of the build yet, It's still in the very early stages...
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Old 16th August 2012, 7:15 PM   #36
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Taking my own advice I just gave to Shane...This mask has been bugging me and I've come to the decision to trash it and start again.

The problem is that I printed it off without the numbers, as I did not know about them at the time. Nor did I know that the lines indicate hill folds and valley folds.
This has resulted in torsion of both the faceplate AND the helmet, making it warped and uneven.

Plus, there are parts I would not bother with and parts I would not cut next time. I would also make the helmet and mask together as one, fibreglass and bondo, then cut the faceplate off after, to ensure perfect alignment.

Tony Stark is the extraordinary engineer and his suit should reflect that in it's precision. I can't live with a warped helmet.

In saying that, getting this far has been an AWESOME learning experience. I've never worked with car-body-filler before, but it's great stuff to work and shape. I can't wait to start again, knowing what I know now.

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Old 17th August 2012, 2:11 AM   #37
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OK, starting again from scratch, this time scaled to fit AND with the edge ID printed on it, to help me align. Now I know which lines represent hill and valley folds, it is soooooo much simpler to assemble correctly instead of GUESSING!

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Old 17th August 2012, 9:11 PM   #38
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This is pure awesome. Insta subbed; looking foward to updates
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Old 17th August 2012, 10:00 PM   #39
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Thanks mate!

Using the edge ID numbers really makes a difference to the shape and overall appearance of this thing! Who'd have thought hey? Jaw and bottom half of faceplate assembled.

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Old 17th August 2012, 11:47 PM   #40
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Looking good. Have been a bit busy lately so haven't been able to work on mine
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Old 18th August 2012, 10:22 PM   #41
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Nice work. I want to make an Iron Man mask next.

You inspired me to have another crack at my build. I'm sure *someone* here will recognise this.....



Click to view full size!
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Old 19th August 2012, 11:05 AM   #42
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Ta mate. Nice Halo build. Keep at it mate.

This helmet is exactly the same as my last attempt, but using the numbers and fold designators changes the shape and overall appearance of it dramatically.

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Old 20th August 2012, 2:03 AM   #43
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Only the top half of the faceplate to go.

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Old 23rd August 2012, 12:02 AM   #44
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RIGHT! Second attempt at the MkIV helmet. This time it looks much better and has a well-matched and symmetrical shape. A couple more minor alignment adjustments and it's ready for a couple of coats of resin on the outside.

Some problems along the way with a few glues. Tarzan Grip worked well. One Superglue worked well and another Superglue would not stick to anything but my fingers. I ended up finishing it with standard PVA wood glue. A little slower to stick, but the trick was to use vary thin layers of it.

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Old 23rd August 2012, 6:55 AM   #45
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How do you go with the super glue when you apply resin to the paper? I've heard of people having problems with the resin melting the glue.

I'm using hot glue for mine. Works well, but can get a little cumbersome for the small details sometimes.
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