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Old 10th September 2012, 2:51 PM   #5191
lithos
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Most of my film stuff is on Flickr.. the stuff on my personal site is only really side pieces that go between weddings. Although I am shooting couples more and more now with film.
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Old 12th September 2012, 10:20 AM   #5192
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http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Me...5/N/4288586271

What the heck $5k!
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Old 12th September 2012, 12:05 PM   #5193
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Just pulled out mums old Nikkormat FD2 to start shooting with while im DSLR'less. The lens is jammed though

If anyone spots a cheap manual lens of any quality/focal length pm me please!
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Old 12th September 2012, 7:11 PM   #5194
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anybody else stand dev fp4+ in rodinal? I've been doing it for a while now, but really think its looking on par grain wise with hp5+ which is a little disappointing. Any tips for fp4 and rodinal?
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Old 12th September 2012, 7:26 PM   #5195
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anybody else stand dev fp4+ in rodinal? I've been doing it for a while now, but really think its looking on par grain wise with hp5+ which is a little disappointing. Any tips for fp4 and rodinal?
Any samples negs to see what you mean? Also what concentration and times are you using?
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Old 12th September 2012, 7:38 PM   #5196
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Wanna see what a certain film at a certain EI in a certain soup looks like?

http://filmdev.org/

Go nuts.
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Old 12th September 2012, 7:50 PM   #5197
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Wanna see what a certain film at a certain EI in a certain soup looks like?

http://filmdev.org/

Go nuts.
I'd actually like to see myo's, there's more to developing than just the contents of the developer. Process etc.

Somehow my experience with rodinal is that its much grainier with trix than hc110. Got quite a lot of blocked highlights too using 1hr stand.
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Old 12th September 2012, 10:04 PM   #5198
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Somehow my experience with rodinal is that its much grainier with trix than hc110. Got quite a lot of blocked highlights too using 1hr stand.
I agree. What dilution are you using for stand? I manged to get the right agitation and timing for 1:50 (not sand ofcourse, I'm a little impatient) that I'm now happy with.
I still like neopan in rodinal the most though personally.
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Old 12th September 2012, 11:01 PM   #5199
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I agree. What dilution are you using for stand? I manged to get the right agitation and timing for 1:50 (not sand ofcourse, I'm a little impatient) that I'm now happy with.
I still like neopan in rodinal the most though personally.
Not sure if you're referring to me or myoheddie, but I've been using rodinal 1:100 at 20C for 1hr with a single inversion at 30 mins. This is for Tri-X exposed at 400 iso, I've only used this for 2 rolls though. Not sure if it's because of the camera, scanner or dev but the highlights are always blocked up like this. http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisongtj/7937089664/

I'm going to reduce the timing to 30 mins and more agitations. Previously my standard process is HC110 for 20 mins at 20deg 1:100 dilution agitate about 10 secs every 5 mins. I just got a fresh bottle of rodinal so I'll use this for now though. http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisongtj/7608654610/
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Old 13th September 2012, 12:07 AM   #5200
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So SilverFast's film profiles are exactly what I've been looking for, but what version should I be looking at lads? If I can get away with the standard I'd be happy, but I find it hard to justify 119 euro for another piece of scanning software if I need the plus version...

Ideas / recommendations - learn2epsonscan?
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Old 13th September 2012, 12:27 AM   #5201
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So SilverFast's film profiles are exactly what I've been looking for, but what version should I be looking at lads? If I can get away with the standard I'd be happy, but I find it hard to justify 119 euro for another piece of scanning software if I need the plus version...

Ideas / recommendations - learn2epsonscan?
Hmmm you would want the latest version to get the newer profiles (for new Portra for example).

I was messing around with Silverfast.. but have gone back to Epson Scan for now.. seems I have found what I need to get some ok scans going of my Bali trip with Portra 400.. in colour balance a simple +5 red , + 2 green , -5 yellow.

And then taking into LR and fixing up from there. I just adjust each frame and scan through.

I would love to devote more time but I simply dont have it atm and want these shots archived.

I am redoing all my shot rolls and have a Google Doc running which has Shot Date/Dev Date/Scan Date/Roll Comments and the numbers of the significant frames on the roll.
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Old 13th September 2012, 11:27 AM   #5202
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I was curious... on 135 roll film, the metal canister has this felt type material at its opening so that the film doesnt get scratched as its pulled between it...

Does anyone know what sort of material is it? Where i can get some? Or whether there would be an alternative material I could use that wont scratch the film?
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Old 13th September 2012, 11:29 AM   #5203
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The velvet light trap?
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Old 13th September 2012, 11:34 AM   #5204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichoB View Post
So SilverFast's film profiles are exactly what I've been looking for, but what version should I be looking at lads? If I can get away with the standard I'd be happy, but I find it hard to justify 119 euro for another piece of scanning software if I need the plus version...

Ideas / recommendations - learn2epsonscan?
Silverfast Se should have film profiles in its negafix as well. I think the difference between Ai and Se is to have custom negafix profiles and batch scanning? not sure what else...

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Originally Posted by zach View Post
The velvet light trap?
yes! that thing. Any idea on where I can just get that stuff? or something similar....

edit: or do I just by Velvet material and that should work??
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Old 13th September 2012, 11:54 AM   #5205
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I was curious... on 135 roll film, the metal canister has this felt type material at its opening so that the film doesnt get scratched as its pulled between it...

Does anyone know what sort of material is it? Where i can get some? Or whether there would be an alternative material I could use that wont scratch the film?

Velvet ish. You can easily remove them from reload able cassettes. What for?
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