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|29th January 2003, 7:06 PM||#1|
(Banned or Deleted)
Join Date: Jul 2002
The ultimate CPU guide (overclocking and cooling)
This guide was meant to be read the whole way through, it is titled for convenience when going back over things, I strongly recommend reading the entire guide before resorting to creating a new thread and asking something that could have been answered here
If your new, and are having trouble understanding what Iím talking about, I recommend that you keep reading, and through example or just more knowledge you will understand, if however this ISN'T the case and the article ISN'T informative enough or it has some incorrect information, email me at: firstname.lastname@example.org
this guide is copyrighted by Spamz0r 2003-2004 (excluding ALL material used, if i have used something that isnít referenced please contact me at the above address)
Overclocking can KILL system components if taken to the extreme or not carefully, itís important that in doing this, it is at your own risk, and you will void your overclocked parts warranties, I cannot be held responsible.
order in performance of cooling methods
1# Liquid nitrogen (Ln2)
2# phase change
3# peltier/water cooling
4# water cooling
5# standard heatsink with fan
6# passive (heatsink no fan)
explanation of these methods
Price: 2L about $2 AUS
Liquid Nitrogen relies on the process of phase change, when a liquid boils it 'absorbs' surrounding heat. Because Liquid Nitrogens boiling point is -195.798ļC it cools extremely quickly when placed out side of its canister. It is stored at room temp, but it cannot evaporate when sealed. (equilibriums are reached within the canister)
Liquid Nitrogen is not a permanent solution. I generally is used for a brief period of time when a (some what professional) overclocker wants to push his/her machine to absolute extreme. Hardware can often die when the hardware expands back to its normal size.
It is normally either placed inside a small copper cup which is placed on the CPU core, or put directly onto the core
Temps can get close to -195.798ļC
Price: (pre-built) $600 - $1500
A very good cooling method offering below 0 temps
There are currently a few pre-built solutions available such as Vapochill and Promethia
To talk to people that own these cases or have built there own DIY phase change rigs, Check out these forums!
Temps can get below -30 (with the right gas and setup you can get to -150)
Price: (cost of water cooling not included) ~$20 - ~$80
A TE peltier (to put it very simply) uses a lot of power to reverse conditions on either side, so one side gets extremely hot, while the other gets extremely cold, the water cooling is used to cool the hot side (see #3 about water cooling)
This can offer below 0 temps, however not as effective as phase change, and an additional PSU might be required to power the peltier
Temps can get below 0
Price: $30-$200 for pump, $15-$150 for waterblock, $20-$200 for radiator, $40 for tubing and misc (pre-built can range from $150 - $500)
Using a "waterblock" which is a Copper or Aluminium (sometimes even silver) block, with usually one in and one out barb (direction usually does not matter) hosing is used to connect the water block to a pump, and a radiator this is an inline system, you can also include a reservoir, but this merely delays the time it takes the water to heat up
This can be very effective but costly as well
Temps can get a 0-20 degrees above ambient
Price: $10 - $150 not Inc fan
Blocks of thermally conductive metal (and thermally capacitive metal) machined to have maximum surface area, while being light, and small, the more surface area allows more heat to leave the metal and be transferred to air which is being moved very quickly by a fan
For e.g. thermal capacities of 5 (silver has been used in a HSF before!) common HSF elements
Heat Capacity 897 J/kg-K
Thermal Conductivity 237 W/m-K
Heat Capacity 385 J/kg-K
Thermal Conductivity 401 W/m-K
Oxygen (air will be different though, but not by a large amount)
Heat Capacity (O2) 918 J/kg-K
Thermal Conductivity .0024 W/m-k
Heat Capacity 4178 J/kg-K
and Thermal Conductivity .320 W/m-K
Heat Capacity 235 J/kg-K
Thermal Conductivity 429 W/m-K
(Thanks goes out to Mattmedia for these conductivity ratings!)
So a faster fan can lower temps
But a fast fan cant make all heatsinks perform better
A few more basic rules apply to metal heatsinks (this includes all metals that come in contact with your CPU core) and contact with your CPU
The base of the heatsink must be EXTREMELY flat, to ensure very good and even transfer between the CPU and the heatsink
However the smoothness does not need to be applied to the entire heatsink only the base, the purpose of a thermally conductive medium in between is to fill all the microscopic gaps in the metal and core of the CPU as air is very bad in comparison to micronized silver etc
If you want to compare a HSF go here: http://www.dansdata.com/coolercomp.htm
It has every single Heat-Sink imaginable all benchmarked and tested
Temps get a fair bit higher than ambient (0*-60+ above ambient)
(It is possible, If I run a Celeron 600 de-volted with an slk-800 the temps are just about constant at ambient)
#6: same basics as above, normally passive heatsinks are only used on smaller applications (not CPUs) for a number of reasons:
However there arenít any standard heatsinks that can cool todayís latest Intel and AMD generation of CPUS
With the exception of VIA's c3 CPU which was designed to run passive
Price: $10 - $150
Overclocking is a modern day art in which a CPU can be run at a faster speed/clock than its default
Anything can really be overclocked. yes even a clock (no not really Ė thatís so lame)
But when it comes to overclocking there are some sane limits of what can and cant be overclocked here is a list of what is possible:
RAM Yes, you can overclock this, by increasing your RAMS FSB or by lowering your latencies lower than stock.
Graphics Card Yes, you can overclock this, however at the moment the only way is through an operating system, instead of the bios (which is better!)
Sound Card Soundcards are in theory overclockable, but as the PCB and designs of the controller doesnít allow adjustments the only other way you would possibly make it run faster is by taking up the PCI bus - not recommended.
Network Card No. Just... No.
Modem No. There is some tweaking you can do, but if your on 56k... sorry pall your most likely screwed
Hard Drive HDD's are "overclockable" in such that you could replace the HDD rotary motor.... although that in itself is incredibly hard.
CDROM/CDRW/DVDROM/DVDRW There are quite a few drives on the market that can be flashed to a faster model, this usually results in a perfectly 'overclocked' drive! :P
Northbridge/Southbridge NB can be overclocked by increasing your FSB (GENERAL rule of thumb, overclock your FSB and overclock anything attached to your NB/SB, however on newer motherboards there are locks stopping this from happening which is good!)
Calculators I have overclocked my Ti83+ Texas graphics calculator, which involved increasing the voltage into the chip, I believe the core runs as fast as there is Voltage going into it, it currently is running 3 times as fast. Other than this you can replace the clock crystal.
The what is overclockable and isnít data is a modified version of LSX's thread here: http://www.atomicmpc.com.au/forums.asp?s=2&c=6&t=716
Anyway, back to overclocking
Ok say you own a Pentium 2 450Mhz CPU
The number 450 is achieved from 2 factors
The multiplier and the front side bus (FSB)
So it could have a multiplier of 4.5 and a FSB of 100, the product of the multiplier and the FSB results in the final clock speed. 450MHz.
So 4.5 x 100 = 450
And a p2 500 would be 5 x 100 (this is assuming the p2 has a FSB of 100)
So if you were to change the FSB or multiplier you would then get a higher clocked CPU this is fundamentals of overclocking.
Ok so that seems simple enough, why donít we all just naturally run overclocked computers, or computers with higher stock speeds?
Factors effecting overclocking (generated by overclocking)
More Heat as a result of:
(i) A Higher clock cycle thus more work done.
(ii) An increase of power input.
And with more heat comes:
A shortened life, however, depending on the voltage given and the range of the overclock, certain voltages might kill the CPU in 2 seconds, 2 weeks, 4 months or in 3 years - its generally safe or non safe, I recommend you ask experienced owners of the CPU you own so you can obtain a safe voltage without finding out the hard way.
Overclocking will make your system run faster, however small overclocks are usually hardly noticed in normal use (music, office use etc)
So itís up to you if you want to overclock
What overclocking effects (overclocking the CPU)
overclocking a CPU's FSB will/can effect all of your system components, as the clock timer for the FSB also effects your AGP and PCI frequency (AGP being video card AGP = accelerated graphics port) and PCI can be anything, from sound cards, to raid cards, network cards etc, and most importantly it also effects the FSB of your RAM
Raising the multiplier effectís only the CPU (as far as i know)
So raising the multiplier looks like a good method right? Well it is, it doesnít effect as many components as the FSB however
On my 8RDA+ and my Athlon XP 1700+ Tbred A
I have multipliers from 6x - 24x and a FSB from 100-240
My default settings are 11x x 133FSB
Which equals 1466MHz
An maximum average overclock for my CPU is 2050Mhz (which is BIG, and WILL NOT BE THE SAME ON ALL CPUS)
So 2050 / 133 = 15.5
Simple enough I could just set my multiplier to 15.5, but I cant why?
Well multipliers ranging from 1 - 12.5 are 4bit multipliers while 13+ are 8bit, meaning unless I buy a CPU with an 8bit multiplier or modify my CPU to allow 8bit multipliers, Iím not going to be able to reach my maximum possible overclock
So at 12.5 ill need a FSB of 164
It gets more complicated
Well as I said before, overclocking the FSB effects almost all system components, well there are ways of preventing this, which includes:
Lockable AGP clock
Lockable PCI clock
FSB/RAM dividers (ram normally runs at the same FSB of that as the CPU, so if you overclock a 133 FSB to 140 the ram should be raised to 140 as well, a divider can change the amount the ram is overclocked, however ram that is in sync with the CPU FSB gives ALOT better system performance)
PCI and AGP locking is a relatively new thing on Intel p4 motherboards and Celerons, AMD Athlon XP's only just a few weeks ago got their first PCI and AGP lockable motherboard with the release of NVIDIAís Nforce 2 Chipset
I do not recommend any other RAM divider other than 1/1 or 100%, as this gives maximum performance
And I also recommend not using multipliers to overclock, as a FSB also provides more bandwidth so overclocking the FSB not only gives better processing power but more bandwidth between the Ram, CPU and North Bridge
Ok, so you now have a clearer view of overclocking, but you still havenít learnt what makes overclocking dangerous...
So as youíd imagine, running a CPU faster than its meant to would mean it would use more power, most motherboards allow you to change your Vcore (voltage core/ CPU voltage) so when your CPU becomes unstable, raising the voltage is sometimes the only way to make the CPU stable, however CPUS are fragile and to much Vcore can KILL a CPU, if not instantly but over time as well so its a risk you will have to take when overclocking. my CPU has a default voltage of 1.5v for a decent overclock and a good safe limit would be 1.7v for the beginner, most motherboards allow up to 1.8-1.9v as most CPUs donít use the much power, my motherboard 8RDA+ allows up to 2.2v so if i were to run my CPU at 2.2v I would most likely instantly kill my CPU as that is a .7v incensement from its default!
AMD users of the Athlon XP CPUs will find this very handy: http://www.geocities.com/amd_info/
If you are unsure of what your CPU's maximum voltage is, the manufacturer of the CPU should have somewhere on their website/manual a maximum rating for the CPU, AMD recommends a maximum of .5v which is 2.0v
But this brings up the need for very special cooling, and extreme cooling, as you are increasing the source of power, which in turn increase the heat outputted by the CPU. The stock HSF that came with the CPU was designed to work in variable conditions at the default settings, so by overclocking and greatly increasing the heat output of the CPU you will need better cooling solutions.
My CPU is currently at 1.975v at a temp of 46c using a SLK-800 heatsink with a 50CFM Sunnon fan (CFM = cubic feet moved per minute)
2v and a temp of 46c idle with a ambient of 35 is a very good temp, for an air-cooling solution, mainly because the SLK-800 is basically the beast air-cooling solution for an AMD system
You can monitor your CPU temps using a few programs, which read probes located either inside the CPU or directly below it ones that come with your motherboard or try motherboard monitor http://mbm.livewiredev.com/
RAM is very important when it comes to overclocking your FSB itís important for maximum performance to keep it SYNC with your CPU FSB
RAM Quality is more important than anything, ram doesnít generate enough heat to even need a heatsink, however if you are using a very high voltage it is recommend to add a heat-spreader to reduce temps and in term lengthen your rams life
I recommend using Samsung or Corsair XMS (corsair is basically re-badged Samsung pick of the bunch ram which come with heat-spreaders)
RAM overclocking doesnít require to much voltage adjustment, the default ram voltage is 2.5v for DDR, its safe to run it at 2.9v but no more or else over time you will kill your RAM!
I would recommend running your ram at 2.9v non stop as this will burn it in and over time (a few months) it will reach a higher peak overclock
Last edited by Spamz0r; 10th October 2004 at 9:12 AM.
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|29th January 2003, 7:07 PM||#2|
(Banned or Deleted)
Join Date: Jul 2002
the same copyright applies here;
Well, this question is asked ALOT, what is a safe temperature? or is this to high?
If you have accurate measurements, 50-55+c is much to high if you are overclocking - your average Joe with stock cooling will never notice if his CPU does get that hot, it doesnít matter as long as your CPU is stable, temperature is almost irrelevant. I say almost because a CPU that runs at a hotter temp has a shorter life, so while it may not pay its self off as a return investment running your CPU at a cooler temp should ensure that in the time that you use your CPU you will never see it die or drop in performance.
But in the end all that matters is that your computer is stable.
When you want to compare temperatures, donít forget to take an ambient temp at the same time, as there is always a temp difference with the CPU if the ambient is 20c compared to 35c
I recommend you check this thread out: http://www.atomicmpc.com.au/forums.asp?s=2&c=6&t=9
Itís a very nice thread which talks about temps for individual CPU's and why they can be different in certain circumstances
How to Overclock
Rule #1 take it slow!
Ok first I recommend that you find your RAM's maximum FSB
I use a program called memtest86, which acts as a boot disk, and outside the windows platform it rigorously tests your RAM, it tests each individual byte, over and over using different read and write patterns, this program is very highly recommended.
Get it here:
Well lets get into it
Raise your FSB slowly, while dropping your multiplier to keep the CPU at its original speed you do this so you know for sure that its the ram failing when it does
So raise the ram voltage 2.9v (assuming you are using DDR ram, if not raise your ram voltage if you can up a little not to much), and raise the FSB of the ram in 5MHz increasement, keep doing so until it doesnít boot then drop it back say 3MHz run MEM-test with all tests, sure it takes along time, but its worth finding out your true maximum FSB from the beginning. if you receive errors, drop it back another 3MHz and keep doing so until you do not get any, then increase the FSB in 1MHz increasements until its at its most stable, yet fastest speed.
If you cannot unlock your CPU's multiplier (see below) you will have to change your ram/FSB sync in order to keep the CPU at the same clock (follow the same procedure as above)
If your ram FSB can be adjusted separately from your CPU's FSB great! Just simply raise it, and follow the steps above
While in the process of overclocking it is recommended to have the latest bios as sometimes manufactures add new features, which may benefit your overclock
DO NOT FLASH WHILE OVERCLOCKED
Either reset to default or replace CMOS battery BEFORE flashing
If you do not have a multiplier adjustable CPU
the following CPUS are not multiplier adjustable:
First of all if you are not sure what type of AMD CPU you own check this OCAU thread out: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...threadid=64248
Any new Intel CPUS since Pentium 1
AMD CPUS before Athlon and Duron (is this correct?)
The Pentium 1's, and few of the Athlon Thunderbirds and the 1700+ Tbred A Athlon XP are the only CPUS you can change the multiplier without having to mod the CPU, all newer Intel CPUS are impossible to unlock
If you own an Intel p4 you may be interesting in reading up about max voltages, etc at Intelís posted datasheets
AMD Duron (spitfire) and Athlon (Thunderbird) both allow the CPU to be unlocked using a simple pencil trick which simply involves a HB pencil
A detailed guide can be found here for unlocking the Duron spitfire and Athlon thunderbird: http://www.motherboards.org/articles...ides/41_1.html
If you want to unlock an Athlon XP Palimino check out these 3 guides, if you donít like the first 2 check out the third
If you want to unlock an Athlon XP Tbred check this out, its easier than unlocking a Palimino (unless you own a 1700+ you lucky bugger :P)
Ok time to overclock!
But first, YOU are going to do some research on your CPU
you will need to do a search, for an average overclock for your CPU (taking into consideration, the model of the CPU etc) and what cooling was used, this will help guide us to a good overclock straight off
This also means that, you will not be asking people to tell you, you will have to find it yourself, so try the PCDB for overclocks (can i get some suggestions on where else to look here please - directed at OCAU members) if you donít it will defeat the purpose of this thread !
Ok so once you get a limitation of previous overclocks (you donít NEED to but it helps) work out if you raise your FSB to or below the FSB and it meets that average max overclock, just do a FSB overclock, it its below, LOWER your multiplier and raise your FSB as a higher FSB is VERY good!
A 1700+ 1466MHz (Tbred A average overclock is 2400+ - 1950MHz (just an estimate)
11 x 133 = 1466
So say you can get your ram to 200MHz (or its DDR 400) you want it to be sync, so you would drop your multiplier to 9.5 and get your FSB to 200, however thatís only 1900MHz so you would have to raise the multiplier to 10, and use a FSB of 195
But you NEVER just start at speeds like that!
Using the gained knowledge you are now ready to begin
Drop your multiplier (if at all, if you need to raise it leave it for the moment)
and start cranking up your FSB, say 5Mhz at a time, an effective way to test (if it boots) is just play a game for a little, preferably a cpu intensive game... we donít need to make sure its rock stable yet just a quick test to see how we are going
So keep raising until its either unstable, or wont boot, if it doesnít boot, you will have to reset your CMOS
You can reset the CMOS by either 1 of 2 things
1# take the CMOS battery out and wait for a little, however avoid contact with the battery as getting grease on the battery from contact with your fingers will cause a chemical reaction, which gets this cool green stuff... i have no idea what it is, but its bad so donít do it (there is only one battery, it looks like a 10c coin)
2# use a jumper on the motherboard to reset it this method is instant and easier than the battery method (check your motherboard manual for the jumper, if you cant find it still email the makers)
Once you get everything the way it was, try this same setting as before, however bump up the CPU voltage (Vcore) a notch and it boots or is more stable than before, continue as normal increasing the Vcore as you go along
Note: the amount of Vcore you apply and the CPU speed is a squared effect, for example, while overclocking, i got my CPU to 1860MHz at a Vcore of 1.7v, however at 1975MHz I NEED a Vcore to run it at 1.975v, so sometimes you might need to bump it up 2 notches to get it stable
However soon you will reach a wall,
If you reach your max FSB:
Try a higher multiplier, if itís not stable try more voltage, if not, you might of hit your limit or your cooling isnít good enough
If you reach your max voltage:
sorry kiddo, you arenít going no where, unless you modify your CPUs default voltage, go to the links reference for guides on how-to do this, if your board adds a certain amount of voltage onto the default these Mods will come in handy, if they are fixed values and are 1.850+ you will need to do a motherboard mod, which is risky, and you will have to research this yourself
Your cooling may not be good enough:
Check your temps, record a log file while playing a game to see how high it gets, if it gets above 60c I would suggest a new cooling solution
If still, none of the above apply and you are still below the average overclock, make sure of the following things:
Your using any AGP, PCI locks available, if possible set the best PCI/AGP divider possible, if this is not available, your other system components may be effecting use and unless you remove them you will not be able to get a higher FSB, so you will have to start using a higher multiplier
Refer to my section below on improving CPU temperature to see and fix your problem, even if it isnít, I would still read it and take in a lot of it!
If all the above suggestions above cant help, your CPU may be a "bad" chip, which simply isnít as good at overclocking as others.
So its time to do some serious stability testing, as you are going to be sitting at this speed now
Games arenít good enough to test stability, neither are benchmarking programs, we need something that purely uses ALOT of CPU power to get it done, distributed computing programs like Seti@home, prime 95 and folding at home are fine for these purposes, however if you do not use these you can download Hot CPU tester from http://www.7byte.com/
I recommend running these programs for hours say 12 hours, after those 12 hours and not a single crash I would say your system is stable
Thereís nothing worse than a few days from now, doing something vital on your computer, and your CPU starts doing some big number crunching and your computer crashes!
During this "burn in" procedure, take note of what temperatures you are getting; also take not of what the ambient temp is (temp outside the case)
If you are getting temps of say 55c+ with an ambient close to 20c consider some cooling solutions, as when its summer or your air-con fails, you wonít be running overclocked like that!
If you are getting an ambient of say 35c, be cool, you are getting a good temp be happy!
And congrats on your overclock
COOLING TRICKS AND SOLUTIONS
Ok, it doesnít matter if you just want better temps to show off, or you need better temps to keep your computer stable all the following rules apply
Case air flow
If your case only has one fan moving air out and in, and thatís the PSU, I STRONGLY recommend installing 2 more case fans if possible, all cases should have a grill for at least another fan, if you will have to cut your own hole which isnít to hard
Stock cooling = evil
if you are using the default heatsink which was included with your CPU/computer induce upgrade immediately!
and check out the coolers and their performance
2 recommend heatsinks:
both of these are GOOD performers, the only difference being the price:
Volcano 7+ for $50 this is bang for your buck material
SLK-800 $110 no fan Inc, this is an ‹ber cooler, the BEST air cooling heatsink at the moment
(As for Intel CPUS Iím not quite sure would match the slk-800 performance wise, however the 7+ can be fitted to a p4 socket)
If these simply arenít good enough, get water cooling etc
(I wonít recommend anything in the way of water cooling, as I have never used it, and canít really speak from experience)
This area can also cause big temp rises
The heat which moves from the CPU core to the Heatsink always has a medium of transfer in between, there are a few methods
Thermal pad (solid)
Thermal pad (not so solid)
White thermal paste (generic stuff)
Micronized silver paste
All thermal pads are basically, OK, they offer no real performance, if you are overclocking, or wanting a better temp it would be best to start by removing it you may ask why even sell it then? well a paste overtime, under pressure will be phsyically squeezed out the sides, or dryup(unlikely) so a thermal pad will stay intact while offering some thermal tranasfer and as a result is good for mass producing systems that dont need frequent maintaince (every year etc). the white paste, obviously identifiable by its white appearance, is fairly good, however, Micronized silver will give you the BEST results and isnít expensive.
Make sure when applying your Micronized silver paste - or any paste, to only apply a VERY thing layer to the CPU core, and no layer at all on the heat sink (put some on, rub it into the metal then rub the excess, you wont be able to see it, but it fills the tiny gaps) the layer on the CPU should be very thin, so thin its transparent.
You can go check out this mini-guide here: http://www.gideontech.com/content/articles/221/1
or read my very brief on it
You might need to lap your heatsink as a heatsink out of a long production line isnít guaranteed to have a perfectly smooth mirror finish, this will effect the transfer of heat from the CPU to your heatsink.
So I will teach you how to lap your heatsink
You will need 400, 600, 1200, 2000 grit sandpaper and something like Brasso if you want a mirror finish
Itís extremely important that you do not use your hands to sand it, its recommend that you tape your sandpaper to an extremely flat surface (such as glass) this way the groves in your hands canít effect the distribution of sanding across the heatsink base
Starting at 400 grit, move the heatsink in 8 motions until the entire surface has been sanded well, then move to the next grit.
Donít forget to use water if you are using wet and dry
When using a product like Brasso is important that you clean the residue away, something like ethanol should be fine
You should see mirror finish.
Also try a faster fan on your heatsink
Well thatís it!
Updated Last: 18/04/2005
(references below :P)
Last edited by Spamz0r; 18th April 2005 at 5:10 PM.
|8th July 2003, 2:51 PM||#3|
(Banned or Deleted)
Join Date: Jul 2002
LINKS USED IN ARTICLE FOR REFERENCE
Extreme cooling thread @ OCAU
Phase Change Cooling Forums
ALL air cooled Heatsinks benchmarked with pricing
AMD Athlon XP Stat sheets (maximum and extremes)
Motherboard Moniter (used to monitor temperatures)
Temperatures explained (written by Abz0ract)
Memtest86 (used to test RAM)
How to identify what AMD CPU you have
Intel p4 socket 423 - 478 w/512k l2 data sheet
Guide to Unlocking AMD Duron (spitfire) and Athlon (thunderbird) using the pencil trick
Guides to unlocking AMD Athlon XP Palomino
Guide to unlocking AMD Athlon XP TBred
Guide to changing your default voltage on your AMD Duron and Athlon Thunderbird (use this if your motherboard wont allow voltage changes, or it wont let you raise it upto 1.850v)
Ultimate bridge modding guides using an interactive interface for Athlon XP Palimino and Tbreds!
CPU burn in program for testing stability:
Heatsink Lapping Guide:
there were 2 posts that needed to be deleted in order to expand the guide, sorry
Last edited by Spamz0r; 18th April 2005 at 5:11 PM.
|30th August 2003, 11:38 AM||#7|
Join Date: May 2002
Cool thx for the info, time for my first overclock.
ok, i'm gonig to overclock my p4 3ghz (800fsb) to 3.2ghz.
Should i start off increasing it to 3.1ghz and then to 3.2ghz.
Also with the stuff i'm running would it be safe for a stable setting.
Zalman CNPS7000A-CU HSF with Artic Silver III for P4 3.0ghz (800fsb)
Vantec Iceberg DDR Heatspreader for 2X512mb Kinston PC 3200 ram.
and a .... Xalman Northbridge Cooler.
and the case is a Xaser III V2000A with like a few exauhst and intake fans.
would this give me a stable overclock.
Last edited by viewmaster; 30th August 2003 at 11:45 AM.
|2nd September 2003, 7:07 PM||#9|
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: carlingford, sydney
shouldnt u be able to get atleast 3.8ghz with that?
Don't hate the player, hate the game
|2nd September 2003, 7:32 PM||#10|
Join Date: Nov 2002
wanna post a guide to OC TI-83's i im always getting angry while waiting for mine to draw up graphs and such so now is the time to prove you are not lying and post a guide on how to do it
|2nd September 2003, 8:15 PM||#11|
Join Date: May 2003
Any tips on stopping windows corruption whilst overclocking?
I have corrupted my windows install 3 times within a week trying to get my XP2500 to 2.3ghz @ stock vcore
|2nd September 2003, 8:25 PM||#12|
Lord of the Pings
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: A Reported Post near you
Turn off UDMA on your hard drives. If you are pushing the PCI bus up, UDMA transfers can be corrupted in transit. PIO slows you down during disk access (coz the CPU has to do more work) but it's a lot more reliable if you're pushing the PCI speed up.
Edit: ..but you're on nForce2, so unlikely to be pushing your PCI speed. More volts!
Last edited by Agg; 2nd September 2003 at 8:26 PM.
|2nd September 2003, 8:44 PM||#13|
Join Date: May 2003
The strange thing I was able to prime for about 2hours up until last week when all of a sudden 2.3ghz isnt stable. Primes for about 5mins and corrupts windows.
|4th September 2003, 11:10 PM||#14|
Join Date: Apr 2002
For a reported temperature difference of less than a few degrees?
I haven't lapped ... BECAUSE ...
it's a lot of trouble, for a reported temperature difference of less than a few degrees. Is that so? I've only read about the results of people who have lapped.
|4th September 2003, 11:35 PM||#15|
Join Date: Apr 2002
HDD's are "overclock able", very easily
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Spamz0r
[B]Hard Drive HDD's are "overclock able" ii have done a mod which involved increasing the voltage to the HDD motor... sure only 20mb of the data worked (the rest got ****ed by dust ^_^) and only lasted 4 1/2 hours it read 3mb faster.
Please comment anyone...
HDD's are "overclockable", very easily. For better performance, HDD "overclocking" produces far better performance than any other type of overclocking, IMHO.
1) Have enough RAM to avoid too much virtual disk use
2) Have a large, fixed virtual disk on you fastest HDD, at the beginning of the HDD cylinders.
3) Have fixed virtual disks on every other data/ program partition.
4) Have your main virtual drive on a separate controller card from other drives, and keep it away from any other slow drive (eg cdrom) on the same controller).
5) Use any version of RAID controller, with the most exotic/ latest on that your hardware can handle. Don't just use RAID 0; GO AS EXOTICS AS YOUR $$ CAN AFFORD.
6) Use the best / shortest cables between the controllers & HDDs.
7) Keep the HDDs pressure-cooled, perhaps with large aluminum-slab heat sinks on both sides.
8) Keep power & temperatures surges away from the HDD (eg do not turn the HDD off, etc).
9) De-frag frequently, including system files. PerfectDisk SmartPlacement is probably the best.
10) At each PowerDown, erase all Virtual disks (it can be done easily & automatically in Windows XP).
11) Turn off SMART of the HDDs
12) Minimize background program use that needs HDD access when trying to get the fastest performance from your computer.
I'm not sure if RAM DEFRAG programs really work, despite the many such programs that exist. If they do work, this will speed up the HDD, by cutting the use of the virtual memory.
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