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Old 13th September 2017, 7:18 AM   #61
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slide in'
close bracket
tighten 2 till it catches tighten 3 till it catches then 1 2 3
it is all boards that do it but that works for me ...did it 3 times to test
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Old 13th September 2017, 11:50 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by TaroT View Post
slide in'
close bracket
tighten 2 till it catches tighten 3 till it catches then 1 2 3
it is all boards that do it but that works for me ...did it 3 times to test
There's a difference between the Foxconn mounts and the other (I forget) - there's a thread on it in the AMD forums. Seems a lot of us are having the same issue - it's nowhere like the installation videos that cooling vendors show where they simply flip and then screw it down very easily.

My 2 and 3 screws came loose in the packaging which I thought was weird.

Anyway, it's on now and there's no chance i'm ever taking it out again!

In other news I accidentally touched the underside of the cpu with a small part of the back of my hand so hopefully no oil from my skin transferred....should be ok....I hope....

Last edited by Neonkore; 13th September 2017 at 1:50 PM.
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Old 13th September 2017, 1:00 PM   #63
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ok something i dd not know what board is that? mine is the taichi. as for oil i,m pretty sure 5 minutes of prime 95 will disintegrate anything on the chip

just looked at a shot of my board i took and mines a LOTES not a Foxconn...there ya go cheapest board uses the better setup
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Old 13th September 2017, 1:54 PM   #64
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ok something i dd not know what board is that? mine is the taichi.

just looked at a shot of my board i took and mines a LOTES not a Foxconn...there ya go cheapest board uses the better setup
Yes the LOTES are the good mount! My board is the ASUS Zenith.
I pushed so hard on the 2 screw that I slipped and almost gouged some of the trace wire on the mobo!

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as for oil i,m pretty sure 5 minutes of prime 95 will disintegrate anything on the chip
That's what I'm hoping for!
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Old 13th September 2017, 4:36 PM   #65
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Found another video to help those with difficult screws. The trick it seems is to first turn as if you are loosening, till you hear a click, the threads are now aligned, then tighten, then torque all screws in order.

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Old 13th September 2017, 6:00 PM   #66
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Yes the LOTES are the good mount! My board is the ASUS Zenith.
I pushed so hard on the 2 screw that I slipped and almost gouged some of the trace wire on the mobo!



That's what I'm hoping for!
that's really weird i went looking online and the pics of the zenith i saw had the lotes...or maybe it was the prime...

i caved in the heat today and ordered a butt load of water cooling gear...guess time will tell if i was right...and broke or wrong...angry and broke
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Old 13th September 2017, 6:29 PM   #67
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Found another video to help those with difficult screws. The trick it seems is to first turn as if you are loosening, till you hear a click, the threads are now aligned, then tighten, then torque all screws in order.

movie
Absolutely you need to do that anyway, the tolerance in the mounting plate is so large that you get heaps of lateral movement, but the alignment isn't the issue, for me it was a problem of thickness.

If I removed the CPU and just put the PNP cap back it would close up no worries. It seems the guide plate for the CPU adds a slight amount of thickness so the initial thread doesn't get a start - hence the need for a lot of force to get it to engage. It would be solved by like 0.5mm longer screws - the tension in the screw is set by the 1.5Nm torque wrench so there would be no problem with a longer screw. Just seems like a combination of manufacturing tolerances culminating in an annoying issue.

Another thing with the Asus Zenith Extreme - there are 3 standoffs/screws for the NNMe drives, 2 are the same length for the DDR add-in card and 1 is longer for the large heatsink on the bottom right of the board, there's nothing on the package or instructions to highlight that there is a difference and if you do what I did and use the smaller standoff for the heatsink instead of the longer one the thermal pad probably wont be fully touching down the length of the drive. You won't notice because the difference is only 1.5mm but it would put the drive on a slight angle.

Last edited by Neonkore; 14th September 2017 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 13th September 2017, 10:24 PM   #68
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I have the MSI X399 Carbon motherboard with Lotes socket and it's also easy to engage.
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Old 14th September 2017, 12:08 PM   #69
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i have gone back to stock for now to do some baselines before the *probably wrong stuff* watercooling gear i ordered arrives...which also means i,ll be off for a month figuring it all out

http://www.overclock.net/t/1636550/a...#post_26338673

feel free to try some of those benches and see how you do.
I was actually quite surprised how quick it was at stock especially gooseberry.
and the temps never got above 50 a big difference to the 78 degrees @ 3900
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Old 14th September 2017, 1:15 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaroT View Post
i have gone back to stock for now to do some baselines before the *probably wrong stuff* watercooling gear i ordered arrives...which also means i,ll be off for a month figuring it all out

http://www.overclock.net/t/1636550/a...#post_26338673

feel free to try some of those benches and see how you do.
I was actually quite surprised how quick it was at stock especially gooseberry.
and the temps never got above 50 a big difference to the 78 degrees @ 3900
What water cooling goodies did you end up ordering? I'm contemplating water cooling my setup also. The lack of options is frustrating to say the least....
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Old 14th September 2017, 2:32 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaroT View Post
i have gone back to stock for now to do some baselines before the *probably wrong stuff* watercooling gear i ordered arrives...which also means i,ll be off for a month figuring it all out

http://www.overclock.net/t/1636550/a...#post_26338673

feel free to try some of those benches and see how you do.
I was actually quite surprised how quick it was at stock especially gooseberry.
and the temps never got above 50 a big difference to the 78 degrees @ 3900
Thanks for posting that.
Post up your WC build when you're done!

I've installed a H115i following your advice but i'm pulling the trigger on my WC parts on the weekend. Pretty much all EK stuff except for the CPU block which is the raystorm neo I linked to before - going to go hard tubing as well. Might be biting off more than I can chew for my first WC build but I like to dive in head first!
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Old 14th September 2017, 4:16 PM   #72
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quick question for you guys.

is it true most chips top out at 3.9 ?
are you getting better fps with it running stock so 4 cores boost to 4ish ?
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Old 15th September 2017, 9:47 AM   #73
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http://www.overclock.net/t/1636550/a...#post_26340368

well that makes 2 of use but i,m too chicken shit to try that hard tubing hell this is giving me panic attacks


so i,ll ask the question here....now what
would i have been better off getting a drain tap as well...thinking now i believe i should..and the other question how tight do the compression fittings need to be.
once i start i won't be able to stop till its done


as for the question of 3.9...no is the short answer if you can get the cooling dialed in right and get a chip that isn't a lemon 4.1/4.2 should be oable.
mine can get to 4.1 but it simply needed to much juice and produced to much heat so when it the cooling is set up i,m sure 4.1 will be fine.

also have a look at the thread i mentioned i ahev thrown in a pile of stock benches and games when clocked at 3.9 are a bit slower depending on the game but games like doom are faster to be honest there isn't a lot in it. 500 to 1000 points in firestrike(mostly for the physics score.
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Old 15th September 2017, 10:21 AM   #74
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as someone who did a build without a drain port for his first build....get a damn drain port god damn is it a pain in the ass not having one so for your own sake make sure you have one at the lowest point on your new build and as for compression fittings, well have you ever done a garden hose onto a water gun? same deal here, you'll be able to tell by feel when its tight enough and you should be doing a 24 leak test with paper everywhere and just the pump running with everything else unplugged during this stage
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Old 15th September 2017, 11:01 AM   #75
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ok got it. now this pump has 2 inlets and an outlet its ok to throw the drain in the other inlet?
and everything off we are talking installed setup but all components unplugged except the pump(i,ll plug that into a spare psu outside the case.)

now this little ek pump has a cyclone thing and a pad to help with air bubbles or so it says should i use both the pad or the cyclone thing...
i would have thought the pad would restrict flow.
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