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Old 11th July 2017, 5:23 PM   #7651
MUTMAN
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no need to experiment. they will use the same amount of power
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Old 11th July 2017, 5:39 PM   #7652
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no need to experiment. they will use the same amount of power
Partially/possibly true.

It's correct that for exactly the same bodies of water the same amount of energy is required to heat/maintain the same temp. However the construction of the two heaters is quite different. The heater element windings differ, the number differ and the suggestion of what sized body of water they're suitable for is vastly different.

So I'm looking for any differences in efficiency on heat transfer between the heaters.
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Old 12th July 2017, 10:49 AM   #7653
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The plants in the tank are stuffed unfortunately. The RHS tank with all the Cory's, cardinals and bristlenose has been fairly successful with the plants but the old LHS 200L tank has just destroyed the plants. I wonder whether it's a CO2 deficiency as the leaves have yellowed a bit. Some of the other plants just melted away to Half their size and stayed like that. I wonder if 20 neons and a bristlnose aren't producing enough for the plants?

Bought some root tabs and flourish to try. Didn't get any liquid CO2 as I'm hoping the extra waste from the Rams will help.
I'm guessing the ones that are melting are the 2 large leafed ones, red temple something and aluminum something? I have/had the same plants, found that they are not really a submersion style plant, mine broke down and the few stems that where close to the surface survived and went nuts once they broke the surface.
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Old 17th July 2017, 1:51 PM   #7654
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Yellowing of leaves is the lack of potassium & for red leaf plants you need iron. Only put iron or potassium 24 hours apart, you can't dump them in at the same time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by holdennutta View Post
Partially/possibly true.

It's correct that for exactly the same bodies of water the same amount of energy is required to heat/maintain the same temp. However the construction of the two heaters is quite different. The heater element windings differ, the number differ and the suggestion of what sized body of water they're suitable for is vastly different.

So I'm looking for any differences in efficiency on heat transfer between the heaters.
If you have 1 heater that is big enough for your tank then the other only acts like a backup, you would set the backup at slightly cooler so effectively it only comes on when the other heater is gone or can't keep your tank at the right temp during colder nights..

Last edited by Ma Baker; 17th July 2017 at 2:30 PM. Reason: 2 posts merged. Please edit your post
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Old 17th July 2017, 6:14 PM   #7655
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...However the construction of the two heaters is quite different. The heater element windings differ, the number differ and the suggestion of what sized body of water they're suitable for is vastly different...

windings, style etc all matter for nil
its a fundamental law of physics
250watts of energy is 250 watts no matter which way you slice it.
its heat
125w for 2 minutes is the same energy as 250w for 1 minute (in respect to a large tank volume of water being kept at sensible temp limits of course. a thimble of water at 99C is a different matter)

i think the line is
energy cant be created or destroyed, only converted from one form to another or transfered to another system
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Old 31st July 2017, 1:25 PM   #7656
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Kept needing to adjust the temp on the new heater so gave up trying to measure anything consistent.

I just built a raspberry Pi powered aquarium temp monitor on the weekend. Have a probe in each tank and every 5min it tweets the temperatures lol.

One thing I'm noticing is that despite the tanks being same volume and same location the Petworx heated one is having a bigger amplitude to its temp swings.

Next step is to add a database to store historical info and make some pretty graphs etc. Then add some kind of water level switch so it'll alarm in case of catastrophic tank failure lol.
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Old 21st August 2017, 11:46 AM   #7657
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Default Acidification: got me stumped

My freshwater aquarium is doing very nicely. The algae problem has been dragged completely under, ammonia and nitrites are undetectable and the fish are relaxed, happy and growing. Getting a wee problem with acidification, though and it seems to becoming more of an issue.

The best PH I've found that works in this tank is between 6.6 and 6.8. Any higher and green film algae takes hold. Any lower and brown algae starts forming.
Problem is the PH is continually dropping below 6.6 if I don't keep a close eye on it. I'm having to add 2 teaspoons of buffer to already 6.8 tap water at every water change, and yet within a couple of days the ph drops to 6.4-ish. On one occasion it dropped down to 6.3 and Nh4 started being detected (the PH was messing with the colony on my bio-beads. It has since recovered) Now I'm on top of it by closely monitoring the PH but I'm not happy that it's happening. Nitrates are ALSO higher than I'd like - 30-40ppm. I even suspected my testing kit, so I bought a new bottle of PH tester: nope - all fine.

I'm not one who thinks that balancing aquariums with chemicals is a good idea long term, nor is this PH issue conducive to happy fish: there are inevitable fluctuations in PH which I'm sure stress out the fish, they're not displaying any of the symptoms.

What the hell could be pulling the PH down so hard?

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Old 21st August 2017, 11:53 AM   #7658
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Poo? If the fish are getting bigger, more poo?
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Old 21st August 2017, 11:55 AM   #7659
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Poo? If the fish are getting bigger, more poo?
They're not sharks I'd expect additional nitrogen, less so PH issues. Also I'd imagine it's pretty much a food in = poo out sort of thing and the amount of food they're eating hasn't increased...

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Old 21st August 2017, 12:05 PM   #7660
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Bigger fish putting out more co2 into the water and dropping the ph?
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Old 21st August 2017, 12:35 PM   #7661
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Opposite problem here in the nation's bush capital, I have recently returned to the hobby, only to discover the water here is bloody alkaline! I have to keep adding heaps of buffer each water change to get back down to Ph 6.8

Rather than relying on chemicals, is there a substrate I could add to help keep it balanced?
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Old 22nd August 2017, 11:37 AM   #7662
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coral bones to up the pH peatmoss to drop, coral dose need to be replaced every couple of months, not sure on the peatmoss, just make sure it doesn't have fertilizers in it.

oh and driftwood will lower ph too
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Old 22nd August 2017, 12:24 PM   #7663
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I built a raspberry pi temp monitor for both tanks and presently it reads from the tanks and tweets the temp every ten min. Until I work out how to run a SQLite database lol.

The PetWorx 300W heater is pretty shit. Far larger daily amplitude in temp swings and when water changing it takes a lot longer to bring back up to temp compared to the identical tank beside it with the 150W Eheim.

Both temp probes read within 0.15'c of each others output when placed in the same water which is pretty good. Don't know how accurate but they're at least consistent.
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Old 22nd August 2017, 6:19 PM   #7664
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why not used the pi to switch the heater ?
used some PID feedback and your temp will sit rock solid
what sort of swing are we talking ?
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Old 22nd August 2017, 6:25 PM   #7665
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why not used the pi to switch the heater ?
used some PID feedback and your temp will sit rock solid
what sort of swing are we talking ?
Because I'm not that advanced yet. Am starting from basically zero electronics/Linux/python knowledge. Gotta sneak up on features slowly.

We not talking huge swings, not dangerously low or anything. But I'm presently not recording data just seeing the tweets. It seems like the shitty heater swings from ~25-27' when I'm aiming for 27. Eheim is 26.1-27'.

Last edited by holdennutta; 22nd August 2017 at 6:29 PM.
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