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Old 19th May 2017, 10:24 AM   #706
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Originally Posted by Virtuoso X View Post
sweet
gotta wait till my liquid ultra comes before i do anything
i have delidded 7350K, 7600K and 7700K (had 3 lol)

temp decreases are absolutely worth it with kaby. also volts a bit lower as well

undelidded 7350K 1.41V for 5Ghz, temps under custom H20 High 70's
delidded 7350K 1.38V for 5Ghz, temps early 50's

Unsure on the difference with the 7600K and 7700K i have now, as i purchased these already delidded

My 2nd 7700K which i delidded was as follows

undelidded 7700K 1.35V for 5Ghz, temps under custom H20 High 80's
delidded 7700K 1.32V for 5Ghz, temps mid 60's

Also tested with a Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO red, and a corsair h100i, and the temp range is about the same, (the custom keep temps down more at load, but at idle, little difference

the coolermaster keeps the 7350k 5ghz 1.38V @ mid 50's during XTU

delidding a must imo for kabylake (if you intend to overclock!)
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Old 19th May 2017, 10:38 AM   #707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nCrypt View Post
i have delidded 7350K, 7600K and 7700K (had 3 lol)

temp decreases are absolutely worth it with kaby. also volts a bit lower as well

undelidded 7350K 1.41V for 5Ghz, temps under custom H20 High 70's
delidded 7350K 1.38V for 5Ghz, temps early 50's

Unsure on the difference with the 7600K and 7700K i have now, as i purchased these already delidded

My 2nd 7700K which i delidded was as follows

undelidded 7700K 1.35V for 5Ghz, temps under custom H20 High 80's
delidded 7700K 1.32V for 5Ghz, temps mid 60's

Also tested with a Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO red, and a corsair h100i, and the temp range is about the same, (the custom keep temps down more at load, but at idle, little difference

the coolermaster keeps the 7350k 5ghz 1.38V @ mid 50's during XTU

delidding a must imo for kabylake (if you intend to overclock!)
what tim do you use on between the chip and IHS?
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Old 19th May 2017, 10:43 AM   #708
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what tim do you use on between the chip and IHS?
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...al-compound-1g

and between the ihs and block i use

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...l-grease-1-5ml

Great products. The TIM between the IHS and chip is way more important then the TIM between the IHS and Block.

The kryonaught is good, but active silver 5 which is half the price, produces temps within a couple degrees.

I just got a bundle when bought both!
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Old 19th May 2017, 2:30 PM   #709
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Originally Posted by nCrypt View Post
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...al-compound-1g

and between the ihs and block i use

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...l-grease-1-5ml

Great products. The TIM between the IHS and chip is way more important then the TIM between the IHS and Block.

The kryonaught is good, but active silver 5 which is half the price, produces temps within a couple degrees.

I just got a bundle when bought both!


thanks
is any silicon adhesive or epoxy adequate enough to glue the IHS back to the chip?
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Old 19th May 2017, 2:56 PM   #710
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thanks
is any silicon adhesive or epoxy adequate enough to glue the IHS back to the chip?
I use a sikflex, 922 I think it is. Black windscreen silicon really. Non corrosive to the PCB and sticks like the original. Some use dow corning, but I haven't really found any.
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Old 19th May 2017, 3:25 PM   #711
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I use a sikflex, 922 I think it is. Black windscreen silicon really. Non corrosive to the PCB and sticks like the original. Some use dow corning, but I haven't really found any.
sweet
ill pop into bunnings and see what i can find
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Old 19th May 2017, 5:36 PM   #712
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I use ordinary clear bathroom silicon. I stick a small cable tie into the tube, and just wipe it thinly across all 4 sides of the IHS. I then clamp it lightly to the CPU for about 20 minutes or so, just until it gets some grab, stick it into the socket and clamp it down. Next time its removed, its solidly attached, but actually a bit easier to remove again if desired than the original glue.

I did nCrypt's chips with bathroom silicon, and mine and a number of others. I and them have experienced no problems as yet, unless they haven't informed me.

I wouldn't use epoxy. If you mess up the TIM application, you are pretty much fucked if you've used epoxy I'd imagine. I'd be worried that delidding would take half the PCB with it...
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Old 19th May 2017, 5:38 PM   #713
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does anyone have a delid / relid tool like the rockit88
(https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/pro...nt=21315860033)
and willing to let me use it on my 7700k? if your interstate ill pay postage to and from
(not only a delidder but also a relidder makes life easier)

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I use bathroom silicon.
I wouldn't use epoxy. If you mess up the TIM application, you are pretty much fucked if you've used epoxy.
ill pop into bunnings and get some silicon sealant with high thermal resistance instead
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Old 19th May 2017, 5:49 PM   #714
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Originally Posted by Virtuoso X View Post
does anyone have a delid / relid tool like the rockit88
(https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/pro...nt=21315860033)
and willing to let me use it on my 7700k? if your interstate ill pay postage to and from
(not only a delidder but also a relidder makes life easier)



ill pop into bunnings and get some silicon sealant with high thermal resistance instead
If a CPU core throttles at 100C, you would have to assume that not much in there is getting hotter than that? I don't think high thermal resistance is necessary really. Ordinary bathroom silicon works just fine.

Remember you are basically just holding it in position when its not in the socket. It's pretty solidly secured once clamped in.

Using non conductive TIM, I don't even bother gluing the IHS back down. I just feel more comfortable making it immobile before fitting with the conductive stuff. You don't want that shit getting smeared around under the IHS.

Don't forget to buy some LET (liquid electrical tape) which you can probably also buy at Bunnings. I bought mine at Jaycar. You want a dob of it on the little gold contacts near the die under the IHS, so conductive material doesn't short them out against each other.
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I did visit the NBN van today at Westfields North Lakes, but their internet connection wasn't working so they couldn't give me any information

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Old 19th May 2017, 10:43 PM   #715
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If a CPU core throttles at 100C, you would have to assume that not much in there is getting hotter than that? I don't think high thermal resistance is necessary really. Ordinary bathroom silicon works just fine.

Remember you are basically just holding it in position when its not in the socket. It's pretty solidly secured once clamped in.

Using non conductive TIM, I don't even bother gluing the IHS back down. I just feel more comfortable making it immobile before fitting with the conductive stuff. You don't want that shit getting smeared around under the IHS.

Don't forget to buy some LET (liquid electrical tape) which you can probably also buy at Bunnings. I bought mine at Jaycar. You want a dob of it on the little gold contacts near the die under the IHS, so conductive material doesn't short them out against each other.


i was thinking of not gluing the IHS back down and just letting the mobo hold it together (even though first mounting on mobo might move the IHS alittle)
but i think ill be alittle more comfortable with having some sort of adhesive (no matter how minute) to keep it together and let the pressure from the socket clamp it down.

theoretically, if i leave the IHS without gluing it back, i should get better thermal performance right? because there is less thickness to the IHS / PCB
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Old 19th May 2017, 11:49 PM   #716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nCrypt View Post
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...al-compound-1g

and between the ihs and block i use

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...l-grease-1-5ml

Great products. The TIM between the IHS and chip is way more important then the TIM between the IHS and Block.

The kryonaught is good, but active silver 5 which is half the price, produces temps within a couple degrees.

I just got a bundle when bought both!
why not use Conductonaut for the heatsink as well?
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Old 20th May 2017, 12:49 AM   #717
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why not use Conductonaut for the heatsink as well?
Because its liquid metal.

It eats aluminum and most blocks/heatsinks are aluminum (full abd part tbereof)

It will eat and destroy fhe block.
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Old 20th May 2017, 1:05 AM   #718
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i was thinking of not gluing the IHS back down and just letting the mobo hold it together (even though first mounting on mobo might move the IHS alittle)
but i think ill be alittle more comfortable with having some sort of adhesive (no matter how minute) to keep it together and let the pressure from the socket clamp it down.

theoretically, if i leave the IHS without gluing it back, i should get better thermal performance right? because there is less thickness to the IHS / PCB
You are talking about maybe .1mm instead of .2mm clearance, all of which is bridged by liquid metal. There is very little clearance between IHS and die. You only need a smear of silicon, not a thickness. No, there would be no thermal advantage in not gluing it back down.

Here's an experiment for you. After delidding, but before applying the new TIM or gluing it down, try and fit the CPU and loose IHS in the socket without allowing the IHS to move as you clamp it down.. It can be done, but you'll need to brace one end very securely with your thumb (placing uneven pressure on the socket in the process), and even then its likely that the sliding motion of the clamp will move the IHS with it, leaving the chip behind.

Its only a matter of a few mm, but it can really mess up your newly applied TIM, and with liquid metal in there you really don't want it disturbed once you drop that IHS in place.

I've never bothered gluing them down until I started with the liquid metal, and its been fine. I just don't think I'd take any chances with electrically conductive liquid being in the wrong place.

Of course this means the chip can now be removed and moved etc without disturbing the awesome new TIM too, which is handy if you switch shit around a lot like most of us.
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I did visit the NBN van today at Westfields North Lakes, but their internet connection wasn't working so they couldn't give me any information

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Old 20th May 2017, 8:12 AM   #719
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theoretically, if i leave the IHS without gluing it back, i should get better thermal performance right? because there is less thickness to the IHS / PCB
When the IHS just sits on the die, with no tim between them, it can spin freely as it does not touch the pcb. The silicone sealant really just takes up that gap. This is ensured by having pressure on it as it dries.
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Old 20th May 2017, 4:07 PM   #720
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When the IHS just sits on the die, with no tim between them, it can spin freely as it does not touch the pcb. The silicone sealant really just takes up that gap. This is ensured by having pressure on it as it dries.
thanks for the clarification guys
whats a good method of clamping down the IHS to the PCB after applying silicon? i dont have a delid tool etc
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