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Old 19th March 2017, 11:02 PM   #16
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what electronics are you running?
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Old 19th March 2017, 11:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoopstar View Post
what electronics are you running?
Running a RAMPS on a 32-bit Re-Arm board
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Old 26th March 2017, 11:12 PM   #18
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Quick update for the weekend, haven't had a lot of time to work on the printer, busy packing boxes to move house but finally spent some time working on it today while watching the F1...

Manage to assemble the Z carriage and the X frame and carriage for testing and measurements, all looking good so far, just need to cut the 2020 down to size now and then assemble.

Quite pleased with how rock solid the Z-axis is and the extra wide stance on the rods will certainly prevent any chance of racking

By the calculations I will have a build area of about 250x250x250mm

Also been working on the electronics and enclosure design, will be laser cutting that in black acrylic and enclosing the entire printer to get away from the spaghetti look...





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Old 27th March 2017, 12:23 PM   #19
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I've been looking at various 3D printer designs for my first build for the last few months after using our Ultimaker 2+ and Genuine Prusa i3 at work..

I was very close to pulling the trigger on the Voron design when I stumbled onto your thread about the Hypercube. Having watched the build video log and a bit of research, I think this looks like the ideal unit.

Only thing is the Z-axis rods in the design seem very small @ 8mm. The Ultimaker usings 12mm Z-axis rods and it seems more logical to me...

What are your thoughts oRiCLe having built one as far as you have?
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Old 27th March 2017, 12:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Only thing is the Z-axis rods in the design seem very small @ 8mm. The Ultimaker usings 12mm Z-axis rods and it seems more logical to me...

What are your thoughts oRiCLe having built one as far as you have?
I'm in the middle then in terms of Z-axis, at 10mm and using solid alloy mounts it seems very solid.

I haven yet cut down the bed forks and they are still 400mm long and you can press down on the ends for only a couple of mm flex; also needing consideration that with my 230x230x6mm MIC-6 build plate weighing in quite a bit more in comparison to say the PCB or Al heated beds you can get as well as building it 50mm each direction larger than the video is, 10mm seems like the right size to me. and solid mounts all the way as opposed to printed ones.
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Old 27th March 2017, 5:08 PM   #21
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10mm seems like the right size to me. and solid mounts all the way as opposed to printed ones.
I also thought 10mm would be about the sweat spot and was a little surprised when I measured the Ultimakers being 12mm.. I just assumed they were 10mm.

I hadn't picked up on your metal mounts - that's a neat idea I might copy.

I had also thought of somehow running the flange linear bearings on the Z-axis fork but that might be after I've got mine up and running.

Loving the build oRiCLe... keep up the great work and details.
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Old 27th March 2017, 5:17 PM   #22
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I did consider that, only issues I thought may occur is lining up the lead screw position if the flange was screwed to the long and cross bar on the Z platform if that makes sense

I do have some here from a previous build so i can check the theory...
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Old 28th March 2017, 2:16 PM   #23
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Whats the quality of the Z-axis rod mounts like that you've ordered in terms of:

1. Flatness of mounting face?
2. Centration of rod bore versus the two mounting screws?
3. Squareness of rod bore versus the two mounting screws?
4. Are they extruded or cast parts?

From some of the photos I've seen on line, the quality looks a little rough?

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Old 28th March 2017, 3:53 PM   #24
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They are cast, possibly machine bored afterwards tho for precision in the rod fitment, all take the rods snugly and clamp down nicely.

These are the actual ones I bought (a few years ago now):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112132395270

In terms of "roughness" if they were it is not going to affect much (compare it to a 3d printed version which can vary up to 0.1mm or more depending on how well calibrated the printer is, then factor in squish, cooling, material, humidity, temperature etc...

If it was for a thou or micron critical precision machine, then no, i wouldn't use them, or if i did, I would at least put them in a mill and machine them and grind them to consistent sizes and flatness...but for a 3d printer...being that you are essentially aligning the "vertical-ness" of the axis by hand anyway for the rods, and stepping up from a 3d printed part they will be more than adequate when it comes to relative movement.

In perspective, if you cut your 2020 even 1mm too short on one side...your whole frame isn't square anymore, but the advantage of CoreXY is that it is not critical as long as the opposing rods are equidistance apart and parallel, everything moves as it should and consistent inside the dimensions.
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Old 28th March 2017, 4:45 PM   #25
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I guess they're probably at least as accurate as something you would print out (as you say, we're typically working to +/1 0.1mm tolerances on a 3D printer)..

At the end of the day, they're going to be stiffer than anything you could print, so expect they'd be a better option - certainly a great mod.

Any other mods you're putting into this? (read: more photos please)
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Old 31st March 2017, 9:58 PM   #26
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Mostly assembled now, had to cut down the 2020 and re-tap the ends for the corner cubes, now just have to cut down the 8mm X-rods to fit and then hook up the belts and wire it all up



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Old 21st April 2017, 11:17 PM   #27
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Okay finally unpacked and back on track...

- Belts are now set and tensioned
- E3D V6 is installed
- BLTouch is installed (wiring just needs soldering and connecting)
- need to reinstall extruder motor
- need to connect my optical X and Y endstops

then its testing, levelling and calibration time...

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Old 21st April 2017, 11:47 PM   #28
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Is that cabinet from IKEA? Looks familiar to one I've seen someone use to display their board game miniatures.

HyperCube is looking great too
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Old 28th April 2017, 7:17 PM   #29
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It's alive!

https://youtu.be/S3tzuRZD5lM

Just finished working out how to get the BLTouch to work on the RE-Arm board and worked out I put the X plate on backwards so I need to flip that so I am a home X to the Min position instead of Max but it works for now.

Now to level the bed and run a test print
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Old 16th May 2017, 6:45 PM   #30
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Interested on your thoughts of the bed axis vs the voron. This one doesn't look as stable but it's certainly chunkier.
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