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Old 31st March 2013, 11:19 PM   #106
nafan08
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Originally Posted by Jackolow View Post
Went out to my local airfield today and had a watch. Massively inspired.

I think I'm going to have a crack at getting one of these

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ller_PNF_.html

I figure it's quite idiotproof and should get me flying, FPV and pretty competent until I'm ready to get my SLR airborne. I'll learn to break it and fix it as well, and at $200, it doesn't seem too scary.

The local dudes told me to swap from mode 2 to mode 1 on the sole basis that they will be able to teach me better how to fly than they will be able to. That sounds pretty legit, right?

Picking up a FPV plane while I'm at it. (FPVraptor)

One question - with batteries, am I wise to consolidate between the two vehicles? HB suggests to get Turnigy 2200mah 35-70C lipos for the quadcopter but tamer Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 25C lips for the plane.

Is there much harm in just getting all 35-70C lipos so I can have 1 spare between the two? With discharge, is there a problem with a battery that can discharge more than less? The cost difference isn't too dramatic. Weight is up to 40 grams heavier, which I don't really know what that means in the big scheme of things.

Also can anyone suggest a good charger from hobbyking? Not sure what I am looking for, but if it's not difficult, i'd like to get power from 240v wall and 9V car batteries (no power at the airfield)
with the battery I think its how much current the battery can handle and to much could mean harder to fly or faster I have about 35c and it has plenty of go on my quad the motor combo will affect it to mine are 315 watt max motors 1000kv.

The mode setting on the radio just go with what is easy for you mine is mode 2 and im fine with that.

Dont forget a charger

jaycar sell 12v power adapter for a wall socket
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Old 1st April 2013, 1:34 AM   #107
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i use mode 1, i bought it because it is what feels "right" to me... i have a quake background, left hand is forward/backward/left/right... right hand is mouse look... this is what mode 1 feels like to me, just fly what feels right to you. remember all mode 1 or mode 2 really restricts (or means) is that the throttle is on the right or left hand side and the throttle has no spring return

i bought a turnigy accel 150w charger off hobby king, was a good price for a simple easy charger. found a 10 amp dc power supply off gumtree for 30 bucks and the charger can use that or plug straight onto my car battery

i think your missing a big gap between first quad and slr, ie something you can fly plenty of fpv on before you start lifting big and expensive loads
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Old 1st April 2013, 6:50 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by Jackolow View Post
The local dudes told me to swap from mode 2 to mode 1 on the sole basis that they will be able to teach me better how to fly than they will be able to. That sounds pretty legit, right?

FWIW I taught myself how to fly the multicopter and I use Mode 2. Being a pilot, Mode 1 makes no sense to me at all.
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Old 1st April 2013, 11:48 AM   #109
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with the battery I think its how much current the battery can handle and to much could mean harder to fly or faster I have about 35c and it has plenty of go on my quad the motor combo will affect it to mine are 315 watt max motors 1000kv.

The mode setting on the radio just go with what is easy for you mine is mode 2 and im fine with that.

Dont forget a charger

jaycar sell 12v power adapter for a wall socket
If i have a 20C UBEC with a 30C battery source, wouldn't the 20C ubec limit the 30C source, making it the same as a 20C battery?
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Old 1st April 2013, 12:50 PM   #110
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If i have a 20C UBEC with a 30C battery source, wouldn't the 20C ubec limit the 30C source, making it the same as a 20C battery?
just means if whatever is on the end of the ubec pulls too many amps the ubec will fry first

escs are normally rated in amps, typical numbers on quads are 18, 20, 25, 30amp ESCs, one per motor. if your motors fully load the escs then you pull somewhere around 4x30=120 amps. the battery is rated in (milli)amp hours with a discharge rating. you multiply the amp hour rating by the discharge rate to get a measure of instantaneous current draw... ie 3000mAh @ 30C ~= 90A.

if you actually have big enough motors to load up the battery way past its rating then somethings going to lose its magic smoke

i have ~170W motors on a tbs disco frame that max out at around 18A... ive got 30A escs but probably only need 20A. my batteries are ~3000mAh our 4000mAh at 20C. my max draw is around 80 amps so pulling max power out of my 20C batteries is a bit dicey in theory. in practice you probably aren't pulling max current and you dont do it for very long so they can cope... just

im currently switching out the motors, gotta change my batts to cope (of course im moving to 4S anyway so its a whole different ballgame
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Old 1st April 2013, 6:16 PM   #111
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Been doing more research on HB.

Looking at buying one of these mainly because it's an all in one unit for home and with the car.
IMAX B6-AC Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (GENUINE)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6478

I don't know whether 50W is really 'enough'. I'm here for the long run with at least 2 vehicles running at the same time - will it be worth it getting something a bit better like an Accucel-8? I figured no point in thinking about the ACC6 because it's the same as the IMAX I'm looking at.

I think this is the last thing I need to worry about. I think I'll go for 2650mAh batteries, which needs another plug - are batteries xt60 plugs male or female?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html


I'm getting pretty exhausted doing research by myself- and I'm just getting a PNF as well :P Almost there! I think I can order by this week if I'm lucky.

Anyone got experiences about shipping with HB- Is it cheaper to get everything locally+international or will getting everything from international be cheaper in the long run? Not in a particular rush.
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Old 1st April 2013, 9:28 PM   #112
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Been doing more research on HB.



I think this is the last thing I need to worry about. I think I'll go for 2650mAh batteries, which needs another plug - are batteries xt60 plugs male or female?
.
The plugs are female on the battery because it is always live.
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Old 2nd April 2013, 12:11 PM   #113
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finished my FPV today.
Heh, by the end of your vid I counted two of your neighbours out in their yards trying to figure out what the hell you were doing. Hopefully they don't figure out you were literally getting a birds eye view into their houses and backyards (or that you then uploaded the video to youtube!).

....

Rather than start with a full size quad I instead bought a Mqx clone (the 'Twister') locally for $80, plus 4 extra batteries for an $20. It flys pretty well, and should be a cheap way to learn the basics of quad flying. It's so light that even a couple of hard crashes haven't broken anything.

Once I'm feeling confident controlling it I plan on building a mid to high end fpv quad (perhaps on the qav400 frame) that will do everything I want (including jello free video and high speed flying).
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Old 2nd April 2013, 1:15 PM   #114
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just means if whatever is on the end of the ubec pulls too many amps the ubec will fry first
Everything else you said is correct, just this bit can be a little confusing since your talking about amp draw from a battery.

The question was, he has a 20C UBEC and a 30C battery, which he means he has a 20A ESC with a built in UBEC (Universal battery eliminating circuit).
BEC's are not rated in C, they are rated in voltage and amps and they will only power low power devices in his case such as servo/s, FC, RX or other low power accessories.
His 20A ESC will have a 5v and 2-3A BEC.
The U in UBEC doesn't have any real meaning. They can be either a switching or linear type, and this is the important bit you need to know when it comes to multirotors because in a quad for eg, you need 4 of them, and switching BEC's don't work together well, but linear do.

There are 3 types of ECS's, switching, linear and OPTO. OPTO means there is no built in BEC.

So, when buying ESC's for a multirotor, you need to know what your getting.

That's just the basics of it, I use ESC's with linear BEC's and I flash them with new firmware which is specifically for multirotors.

You can use switching BEC's or OPTO, it just makes things a little more complicated if you do.

Now that I've confused the hell out of everyone, have fun.


PS, if anyone want's or needs ESC's for a multirotor let me know.
I can supply you with new flashed ones or you can send me *yours and I'll flash them. For a fee as this is what I do for a living.

* Not all ESC's can be flashed
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Old 2nd April 2013, 4:03 PM   #115
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Have recieved my 2 packages, one from China the other from Aust hobbyking warehouse, funny thing they both arrived within an hour of eah other :P

I think i've stuffed up, i dont have any motor screws >< and i think my battery is a little big, i got a zippy compact, 3300 3s 35c, seems massive.

The frame is built now i just need to install electrics, which may have to wait until i get some screws for the motors, i have 3 x opto escs and 1 x bec, was recommended to go this way by the oddcopter dude, will see how hard it is to get it setup i guess.


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Old 2nd April 2013, 4:58 PM   #116
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Have recieved my 2 packages, one from China the other from Aust hobbyking warehouse, funny thing they both arrived within an hour of eah other :P

I think i've stuffed up, i dont have any motor screws >< and i think my battery is a little big, i got a zippy compact, 3300 3s 35c, seems massive.

The frame is built now i just need to install electrics, which may have to wait until i get some screws for the motors, i have 3 x opto escs and 1 x bec, was recommended to go this way by the oddcopter dude, will see how hard it is to get it setup i guess.

pix

The gear i ordered
Did the motors come with prop adapters? If so the screws should be in that. You can always go buy a pack of screws they would be M3.
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Old 2nd April 2013, 5:14 PM   #117
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Did the motors come with prop adapters? If so the screws should be in that. You can always go buy a pack of screws they would be M3.
actually yes did come with prop adaptors :P

I can stop gaming now and back to chopper time, Thanks Man !
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Old 2nd April 2013, 8:54 PM   #118
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hmmm, one motor came with no screws, i have a charger powersupply with an American power cable, the battery cable, positive side falls out of the male plug, negative side wont fit over a male plug >< could be fun.
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Old 2nd April 2013, 9:57 PM   #119
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for extra screws I went to Jaycar. As for the battery not cool at all you could try change the plug or send it back. The last thing you want is the plug to fall apart when in mid air :S
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Old 2nd April 2013, 10:05 PM   #120
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for extra screws I went to Jaycar. As for the battery not cool at all you could try change the plug or send it back. The last thing you want is the plug to fall apart when in mid air :S
yer going to hit up jcar tomorrow and see if i can get a EC5 female adaptor and get a mate to cut and solder onto battery for me, have sent a ticket request through to HK see what happens, have the chopper all together just need power >< was hoping on test flight tonight :P
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