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Old 25th January 2002, 7:57 AM   #136
neolithic
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Cool

Quote:
Originally posted by Splog
Watch it man-whore!
Now THATS a remote control car!
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Old 27th January 2002, 12:59 AM   #137
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dave's another losi complete..

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Old 28th January 2002, 12:14 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yoda
You will have to make shure that the .15 that you want to get is a short shaft because those kits are short shaft, not long

also the reason why it won't start is probably because your glow plugs are 3's ??? Well 3's are standard and are designed for cold-warm starting.. you are trying to start it when the engine is hot

Also your engine could be getting hot because you have your mixture screw to rich... Screw it all the way in then bring it out about 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 or so.. just have a little play with it and get it right for your car, mine runs PERFECT at 1 1/2 out.. pretty easy really

A good way to test this is to see if your engine is blowing smoke.. It NEEDS to blow smoke, also another way is after about 5 mins of running the engine (no, not at idle) and pull the car up infront of you, spit on your fingers and put it on your heatsink.. If it disappera like straight away, your engine is running to rich... if it just bubbles and doesn't go away for a little while it is just about fine. If it does nothing, your engine is running too lean

Running your engine too lean or too rich can cause severe problems.... You should re-tune your engine with every change of fuel (e.g. a new bottle) or if you are moving from say 10% - 15% Nitro. Also a good thing to do is to retune on the day if you are going to a club meeting/race.

Also you could consider getting some plugs that are 4's.. they will be a bitch to start cold.. but once running they should be right

Hopefully this can help you

Running for 10mins then having to waite for an hour means bad things... try to weed them out and you'll have much more fun

cheers. Yoda
thanks for the tips Yoda

1. - I changed 10% nitro & 18% oil (non sythetic oil)
2. - changed to a 8 glowplug (medium)
3. - turned the mixture to 2 1/2 turns out

Now I get through a whole tank of juice then let it cool for about 10mins and go another tank of juice
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Old 28th January 2002, 12:28 PM   #139
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Yeah man.. quite amazing at the results you can now get out of them when they are tuned properly.. so is that 18% oil all up? I'm pretty shure that for the motor to function right it needs to be atleast 20% oil (either castor, or synthetic) But that is just IMO.. i'll check and find out for you though man

2 1/2 turns out sounds ok, mine is runnin gat umm ambout 2 1/4 turns as of yesterday.. best I could find for it.

Just make shure you do the spit test once or twice to check that it isn't running too hot, and you shouldn't have many problems.

Cheers,
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Old 28th January 2002, 2:30 PM   #140
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all the fuels at the shop were 18% castor or synthetic oil

It still gets really hot and I have to turn the idle up after it gets hot just so it don't stall.

this motor will be getting replaced soon hopefully
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Old 28th January 2002, 2:39 PM   #141
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Splog: what hopups did you get for the E-Maxx and also how much for those tyres and rims?
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Old 28th January 2002, 6:25 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally posted by aussie7
all the fuels at the shop were 18% castor or synthetic oil

It still gets really hot and I have to turn the idle up after it gets hot just so it don't stall.

this motor will be getting replaced soon hopefully
yeah.. well I suppose if they where all 18% then.. I am running 5% Castor, and 15% Synthetic at 5% Nitro.. Iv'e had a great run with this fuel, so I think I'll just stick to it for now...

You have to turn the idle up? how do you mean.. as in to make it idle faster or slower? I think you are saying faster, but Im just making shure...

Also if your engine is still getting really hot, it can't be good for it. Have you tried the spit test on it? It may sound gross, but is one of the best ways to see how hot it really is running.. It shouldn't bubble or disapper straight away, but take say 5 or 6 secs before the spit will even start to bubble from the heat.

Even if you are repleacing the engine, would you prefer to have two working, or one dead and one working?
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Old 28th January 2002, 7:41 PM   #143
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if I was going to keep using this Tamiya FS12 engine I would get a better heatshink as this would solve the overheating problem.

- the tamiy hopup heatsink head costs $100.00 or a another brand heatsink for around $60
- the bore is scorched and it needs replacing and a new piston $65
- not to mention I need tyres again

So I think I will just add some $ and get an OS engine


damn these little cars cost almost as much as the real thing

I could have bought myself a beatup little dihatsu 2 door handyvan for the money this hobby is already costing me.

I wonder which is the more expensive hobby R/C or OverClocking
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Old 28th January 2002, 10:45 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally posted by VooDoo
Splog: what hopups did you get for the E-Maxx and also how much for those tyres and rims?
umm

a Hitech 645MG servo
RPM Bulkhead Braces
RPM Medium to Heavy Shock Pistons
RPM Shock Tower/Adjustable Mount
Traxxas Al Shock Caps
DuraTrax Bearing 5x8 (4 of)
Kimbrough Gas Car/Truck Servo Saver
RPM Monster Clawz 6-Spoke StableMaxx
and 2 Kyosho Atomic Force 17x2 mods

i think that's most of it

rims were about 34USD for 4 and the tyres come with the truck
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Old 28th January 2002, 10:54 PM   #145
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oh and i have filled the midle of the CV's with aluminium rod and epoxy to prevent them from twisting.........just made some aluminium skid plates too

go to the www.maxxtraxx.com forum if u are interested in E/T maxx's

lotsa dense freaks there but u can find some ok info
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Old 29th January 2002, 3:55 PM   #146
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Question 40Mhz FM crystals

Does anyone know where I can get some 40Mhz FM crystals here in OZ? even overseas is ok if I can order online...
It seems to me they are not easy to get hold of..
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Old 29th January 2002, 4:23 PM   #147
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Default Re: 40Mhz FM crystals

Quote:
Originally posted by microsniper
Does anyone know where I can get some 40Mhz FM crystals here in OZ? even overseas is ok if I can order online...
It seems to me they are not easy to get hold of..
There is some JR ones on http://www.radiomodels.com.au/ under Roadshow> Control> Crystals (Page 5)
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Old 29th January 2002, 5:29 PM   #148
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Yoda, I have turned the idle up to stop it staling

apparently the piston and sleave are made of two different metals, so they heatup and expand differently. this could have something to do with the stalling when hot
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Old 29th January 2002, 6:11 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally posted by aussie7
Yoda, I have turned the idle up to stop it staling

apparently the piston and sleave are made of two different metals, so they heatup and expand differently. this could have something to do with the stalling when hot
I haven't been following your discussion with idling problem.
But I noticed that at the track guys normally have the idle up quite high may be even throttle open when neutral.
This seems to keep the engine running at idle even after dropping from high rev runs..obviously..since the engine is reving beyond idle..
I'm not much into nitro myself, but I use to setup my nitro so that it never stands still at idle without some brake..

They always use different types of alloy or metal so they don't bind.

I'm probably crapping on here..so take it or leave it..
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Old 29th January 2002, 6:11 PM   #150
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Errr.. I dunno on that one man, but my piston and sleeve is made out of a diffrent metal aswell, and I don't have that problem.. god only knows on that one

antways, happy RC'ing
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