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#61 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 54
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#62 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,404
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Would an eSATA thumb drive be a better bet?
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#63 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 476
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While all valid options as Ethan said it does currently fit "as is" so unless I get some wild temps I think I'll stick with it for now. Its also very quick!
I may also need to do something along the lines of what Solacious said and blow the air out some where. Possibly the cart exhaust fan Ethan mentioned. Still deciding whether or not to have a game "inserted" in the slot! |
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#64 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
Posts: 200
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Great work !
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| i7 870 @ 3.88ghz | MSI P57 |8GB Corsair Dominator | Samsung 240GB 830 series + 6 TB various Storage | ATI 6980 | Noctua Cooler | |
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#65 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Townsville
Posts: 335
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Love this Nintendo 64 PC idea! Anyway's I did some fitting last night of a SSD in the Cart and this is the result...
Click to view full size! As you can see the SSD hangs to far out of the cart to be practical... so I went looking on the internet for a solution and found this... Click to view full size! Read of 540Mbs and write of 500Mbs and its only 51mm long and 30mm wide attach that mSATA SSD to this adaptor... Click to view full size! and boom your cartridge idea will work... you will still have to mod the cart and cut off the bottom but this will then fit and look normal in the slot. This is what I'm doing BTW... you inspired me to do the same with my Nintendo 64 in the cupboard.
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#66 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 89
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Would def cut that cartridge and put some high rpm fans in it to pull air from the cpu or push air aswell as putting a small one on the PSU as its going to get mighty hot in there and that is where all the heat is going to come from your system when you play for long periods of time.
Dont forget to check my project out below aswell
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#67 | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 476
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mSata is definitely a good idea however I'd like to not spend anymore $$ on this at the moment since it all fits and works currently.
If I was to do a Version 2.0 I would put the mSata in. Since we have the public holiday today I got a bit more done. After some pretty dodgy cable sleeving always wires are done. ![]() ![]() Looks a bit neater, but again a bit more cramped ![]() I also noticed that I didn't need the extra 12V power coming off the picoPSU. Is this because I'm not running a GPU?? Will it be detrimental running without this?? It makes it a hell of a lot easier as its the most annoying wire poking forwards into the front of the case. I used the system for a while and it ran as normal. Thoughts? The green sleeving is a quick Blue LED I hooked up the the front panel power. ![]() I've begun sanding the case in preparation for painting. I hate sanding but I'm keen to make this look good so I'll stick with it. Currently using P800 wet and dry. Quote:
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#68 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 265
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Quote:
I notice you don't have the 8-pin eps connector plugged in in the pictures but the computer wont start without at least the 4pin plugged in.
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#69 | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 476
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Quote:
However now it boots without that plugged in at all. |
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#70 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 265
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That must be one seriously low power cpu.
Is that the connector you were talking about?
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My Rig - Core i7 930 @ 3.6GHz - Watercooled - ASRock x58 Extreme - 6GB Corsair XMS3 @ 1600MHz - ASUS GTX570 - 120GB SSD - 3TB Storage |
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#71 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 476
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#72 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 89
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Quote:
coat sand coat sand leave 8 hours in between each coat then 1800 light sand and clear. Also remember to use Prep-sol to remove remainder grease and sand partials before every coat. thats if you want it to be perfect remember less is best when it comes to coats and do it in a dust free zone. Also a low rpm fan will not create any noise but will make the world of difference when it comes to temps, id also remove the plastic mold thats on the PSU brick. play it for an hour and hold it in your hand and check the heat. (do this before you remove the cover of course if you like living) Last edited by Epicfatigue; 13th June 2012 at 4:11 PM. |
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#73 |
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(Banned or Deleted)
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 445
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#74 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 82
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Whenever I've painted plastic say like a car dash/engine cover that is raw plastic I use a scotch pad.
You can buy them from any automotive place like Autobarn. They are kind of like a chux sponge but with a rough surface and scuff up the surface just enough for a plastic primer to stick then do your top coat. I find sand paper is too harsh and you have to be very careful you don't ruin the plastic by putting too deep gouges in it. Here's some on ebay for an example. You would really only need one. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FINISHING...item43abd51ddd
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#75 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 476
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Where the hell does one get plastic primer for?
I've tried Bunnings and super cheap auto but they both either didn't have it or may have just been out of stock... Epicfatigue I'm not sure what you mean by remove the plastic cover? Its just an external power brick going to the picoPSU. |
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