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Old 6th September 2013, 12:01 PM   #1
Korny Thread Starter
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Default [Build Log] Corsair Carbide Air540

Hello everyone, heres is my N00b Build, this is the first time i've ever built a water cooled pc

Case: Corsair Carbide Air540


.

I did alot of research before deciding on a design / fittings / tube size etc (ALWAYS DO YOUR RESEARCH) my biggest issue was radiator size.



I already owned most of my computer components before deciding to water cool

CPU: Intel 3930k
Ram: 32GB ram 4X 8gb dominator Corsair memory (not sure on speed its been ages since i looked)
Mainboard: Intel DX79SI - Alright board and only reason i purchased it was because i got it for $120 OEM board
Graphics Card : Gigabyte GTX Titan

I finally decided on what radiator thanks to the help of onereactor on his Build log
http://www.overclock.net/t/1414092/b...r-the-tcell/70


I decided on the following componets
I have left prices attached so everyone can get a rough estimation for later builds

1 Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm $99.00

1 Phobya 4Pin Molex to 6x 3Pin Fan Splitter PCB $6.00

1 Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm $65.00

1 Arctic Silver 5 (3.5g) $9.00

1 Koolance RP-452X2 Reservoir for PMP-450/S Pumps Rev.2.0 $155.00

2 Koolance PMP-450 12V Variable Speed Pump $198.00

1 XSPC Razor GTX Titan / 780 Waterblock $125.00

1 XSPC Razor GTX Titan / 780 / 770 Backplate $35.00

1 XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock for Intel $59.00

5 Phobya G-Silent 12 1500rpm Red LED 120mm Fan $60.00

3 PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Black 7/16ID 5/8OD $27.00

13 XSPC G1/4 Black Chrome 7/16 Compression Fitting $58.50

3 XSPC G1/4 45 Degree Rotary Fitting Black Chrome $15.00

5 XSPC G1/4 90 Degree Rotary Fitting Black Chrome $45.00

1 PrimoChill Liquid Utopia Clear Additive 15ml $16.00

2 Koolance QD3 Female Quick Disconnect G1/4 No-spill Coupling $32.00

2 Koolance QD3 Male Quick Disconnect G1/4 No-spill Coupling $32.00

2 Bitspower T-Block Matte Black $24.00

1 Phobya Flexible Thread Funnel G1/4 Black $7.50

1 Koolance Pressure Valve VLV-VL002K $6.50

2 Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Low-Profile Stop Fitting $10.00

2 XSPC LCD Temperature Display Red V2 + G1/4 Inline Sensor $30.00



My first recommendation to anyone building a water cooling pc (ALWAYS CHECK YOUR FITTINS BEFORE STARTING) luckly i was like an excited school kid and looked at all my stuff before the build as i had 1 of 13 compression fittings stuffed.



I started off by putt in the fittings i was going to use into the radiator and mount the Rads and fans








When i had finished i decided that i didn't like the way the air would move in the case and decided it would be better to exhaust the top instead of intake, also i may need to mount washers unde the nice Alpha Cool radiator screws (see copper screws)




Had a bit of an issue, the fitting would hit hard up against the ps2 ports on the test mounted mainboard (old crappy 1366 socket board) thankfully the board i was using doesnt have that issue but it means later down the track ill need to rethink my loop.





Mounting the radiator / pumps (hard an interesting time filling it / removing air pockets was hard took over 1 hour.







I had a problem getting quick disconnects with compression fittings that would fit my hose size 7/16 so i decided to get the G1/4 to get around this issue




XSPC Water block instructions state (remove the 20 screws from titan graphics card) while i counted 20, some cards actually have 22 screws, 2 of them are near the dvi / DP / Hdmi ports !!! the cover should come off easily with no pulling !!!








Mounting the XSPC Raystorm block



Had an issue with the length of the front panel wires, they dont reach the plugs on the mainboard / Neither do the USB 3 plugs, looks like ill have to make an extension



powered up system with components turned on after hour and half trying to get all the air out of the system.



Side Panel on



water temp sensors attached, i will have to cut a nice place for them into the side panel (FYI i live in a place that has typical day of 32degrees so water temps are alot higher then most places)


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Old 7th September 2013, 4:20 AM   #2
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thanks for posting this been thinking about retiring my TJ07 for one of these.

Nice clean looking build. How does the rear section look ? is there much room after fitting the bay res and psu?
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Old 9th September 2013, 9:10 AM   #3
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It s a bit untidy !!! hahaha bit hard to get cables in check... i may try tidy it up but then i cant see it so out of sight out of mind hahaha

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Old 9th September 2013, 9:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korny View Post
It s a bit untidy !!! hahaha bit hard to get cables in check... i may try tidy it up but then i cant see it so out of sight out of mind hahaha

image
I tried to follow one of the SATA cables, but then I got lost....

WHAT HAPPENED BACK THERE?!
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Old 9th September 2013, 10:22 AM   #5
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Hmmm... 32 degree air temp, 30 degree water temp.

Sub-ambient on water/rad cooling system? Something strange going on there...
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Old 13th September 2013, 4:16 PM   #6
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Nice I can relate to the filling the loop with a bayres being a pita. I was getting pretty over it.

I found the whole fittiment of the bayres took the most time. The system wasn't really designed with a bayres in mind. Looks good especislly with those led fans!
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Old 14th September 2013, 9:57 AM   #7
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Looks nice. The XT 45 is a great rad, the RP 452 is a great bay res too. You really should install the bypass for the second reservoir and join the reservoirs too when running it in serial. It will make the system much easier to bleed and improves pump performance slightly. Having the system on its side like that will prob make getting air out of res 1 hard because that is where it will gather, but moving the system so the res is sitting vertically while filling will make it easier.
Edit: Actually, now I think about it, having the pumps mounted the opposite way to how you have them would be ideal so that res 1 is the top res. All the air will gather there and the port can be used for filling.

If you put the system on its back you can remove the faceplate and install the bypass without draining the whole system. It looks like you have QD's anyway though.

Both rads intaking and the rear as exhaust will give better temps, and also filling all the gaps around the radiators edges will help too. With gaps the fans pull warm air from the case up to push back through the rads again. A fully sealed surface works best. I have found the Neoprene radiator gaskets from XSPC work great because you can use all the spare material from the centre sections as self adhesive gap/hole filler.

Great first build all up.
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Old 3rd October 2013, 3:47 PM   #8
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Normally i have aircon on in the room, Darwin gets VERY! HOT!!! the room temp was 40 but i only run machine with aircon..

Normally its 22 /24 degrees
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Old 3rd October 2013, 3:48 PM   #9
Korny Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmyb53 View Post
I tried to follow one of the SATA cables, but then I got lost....

WHAT HAPPENED BACK THERE?!

Hahahaha, its hard to manage that amount of cables, aslong as the front is nice and tidy hahaha
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