Some 25A+B&W test shots

[Frozen_Hell]

I finally got around to getting myself a 25A (Red) filter to use with proper B&W film with, here are some of the shots:







All taken on Kodak T-Max 100 film with a Nikon AF-D 18-35mm lens fitted with a 77mm Hoya HMC 25A filter. Shots as scanned in terms of contrast/brightness.

[Freaek]

nice!

I likes the last one the bestest

[Wacky]

The T-Max is the B&W that can be processed using the same process as colour film is it?

If so, how does that compare to standard B&W, if you've ever compared them?

Also, what does this filter actually do? I've tried reading books on filters, but I still don't understand them...their use, and when to use particular ones and when not to.

[Frozen_Hell]

Originally Posted by Wacky

The T-Max is the B&W that can be processed using the same process as colour film is it?

Nah, its plain old silver halide B&W, not the C-41 process stuff.

If so, how does that compare to standard B&W, if you've ever compared them?

I have shot some of the Kodak C-41 process B&W and I don't reckon its as good as the real thing. Its alright... but not the same.

Also, what does this filter actually do? I've tried reading books on filters, but I still don't understand them...their use, and when to use particular ones and when not to.

B&W is more sensitive to blue than any other colour, so to stop getting white-washed skies that blend into any clouds that are there you can use either a yellow filter (more subtle effect) or a red to really contrast the sky as being darker.

BTW, thanks Freaek .

[Amfibius]

Originally Posted by Wacky

Also, what does this filter actually do? I've tried reading books on filters, but I still don't understand them...their use, and when to use particular ones and when not to.

Quite easy. You just have to remember the colour wheel:



If you want to darken a shade in B&W, you simply choose a filter of the opposite colour. If you want to lighten a shade, you choose a filter of the same colour.

Example: if you want to darken a blue sky, you could either use a orange-red or a green-yellow filter. A red filter will make anything red in the scene a lighter shade, while a green filter will do the same to greens. This is why red filters are preferred in landscapes - the shade of green foliage is preserved while red flowers are lighter.

[Wacky]

Ahhh....thanks heaps for the filter info guys - wow, two posts here and I understand filters so much better than after reading books and websites!

And FH, thanks re the film...those pics are great, and I was hoping they weren't done using the C-41 process. I prefer Agfa (as the chemicals in the darkroom I use are Agfa) or Ilford, so it's interesting to see the results from different films. I haven't found anyone who is into B&W that likes the C-41 process film, but I have seen some pros using it (my Darkroom teacher uses it a bit, though she doesn't like the results as much as real B&W - she uses it for convenience when quality isn't too much of a concern).

[Frozen_Hell]

Originally Posted by Wacky

Ahhh....thanks heaps for the filter info guys - wow, two posts here and I understand filters so much better than after reading books and websites!

This is the problem with some books/web sites, they just don't get to the bloody point.

And FH, thanks re the film...those pics are great, and I was hoping they weren't done using the C-41 process. I prefer Agfa (as the chemicals in the darkroom I use are Agfa) or Ilford, so it's interesting to see the results from different films.

I use the Kodak T-Max B&W film because thats what I can easily get. I don't mind it though.

I haven't found anyone who is into B&W that likes the C-41 process film, but I have seen some pros using it (my Darkroom teacher uses it a bit, though she doesn't like the results as much as real B&W - she uses it for convenience when quality isn't too much of a concern).

Its alright, but the grain structure is different and to me it doesn't seem as to render the contrast range exactly the same. With proper B&W it seems to pick up more detail in shadows and not blow highlights at the same time.

Thats just my perception from a couple of rolls of both anyway.