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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 7,735
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Basically i made a variable DC power supply using a bridge rectifier and a LM317t IC, plugged it in and it was working fine, powered up a few things and noticed the heat sink was so hot it was melting the plastic above it and when i touched it it burnt me. It was a pos clip on type so i pulled a massive heat sink out a blown computer PSU and used it. Screwed it to the chip and hot glued it to the board (on the ends) - now it doesn't work. Multimeter was showing weird things (showing 5v and it slowly dropping after it was switched off, then doing nothing and giving me 0.03v).
Im off to buy another IC, any idea how this happened and could i have killed something else. btw, dse gave me the wrong caps, i asked for 16v and they gave me 10v = loud bang and bad smells. idiots Cheers |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: NW Tas
Posts: 1,165
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Are you shorting the mounting tab onto anything?
__________________
FOLDING LIKE A MOFO ============ TRADING HISTORY ============ COMIC SANS GETS ME HOT |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 7,735
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no unless hotglue is conductive
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 16,790
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The heatsink attachment is Vout (not ground like other Vregs) so if you shorted it to ground or something you might have killed it.
The heatsink shouldn't be getting really hot unless you are pulling a lot of current and/or dropping a large voltage across it. What input voltage are you using? |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 7,735
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Input is 16v AC 1.25A
I was pulling 9v 1A |
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#6 | |
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Grumpy Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 9,303
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Quote:
Assuming a temperature rise of 40 degrees is acceptable, you need a heatsink thermal resistance of about 2.9 degrees per watt or better, which is rather chunky. Something like Jaycar's HH-8570 would do it.
__________________
"How is anyone supposed to know that this isn't just a bunch of crap?" - Richard Feynman.
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 7,735
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Changed it and its still dead
![]() Im getting 25v across the in and out legs (1st and 3rd pin's), could this mean ive killed the pot somehow as i did use some hot glue on it? Last edited by -KoMoD0-; 23rd November 2006 at 11:35 PM. |
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 5,319
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 7,735
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Its DIY, dont want to do it again as i had to use of of those shitty dalo pens
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 16,790
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Check the pots resistance with a multimeter, show us how you've connected it all. Are you sure you haven't shorted any of the pins together (especially the heatsink)?
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 7,735
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Ill do it tomorrow, heat sink is just connected to ic and is touching nothing else
It only gives me 1.25v on the output now |
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#12 |
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(Oscillating & Impeding)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SE Melb
Posts: 6,151
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Sounds like the adjust pin is shorting to ground (dead pot, bad wiring somewhere?), it certainly isn't dead
__________________
In memory of Cheers Z |
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#13 | |
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Grumpy Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 9,303
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Quote:
Even if you could get it as a sample from any of the manufacturers that do samples, you'd never be justified in sampling it.
__________________
"How is anyone supposed to know that this isn't just a bunch of crap?" - Richard Feynman.
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 7,735
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Its classed as junk atm, changed pot, double checked all wiring. Only think i haven't touched is the transistor, caps and diodes
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 408
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Output of 1.25 volts suggests that your "Adjustment" terminal is grounded (connected to the negative supply) somehow. Can we see a circuit diagram please?
Cheers Rob |
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