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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,219
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Hey I REALLY wanna do water cooling on my case cause 1. My case is 1 metre from my bed where i sleep and the wbk38 is to noisy 2. i think it could be cooler. Now what is involved i dun wanna put one in it leeks and thats the end of that , whats the safest way to do it ? what do i need and how much will it cost and how much noise is involved
any web site ? Thanx |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: UK/ East Coast/Yorkshire
Posts: 2
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You could check my site HERE for the basics.
Links will not realy apply?, as they are geared for UK/US Hopefuly should take you through basics, then you would do better t oask more specific question regarding your build .......Jess |
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#3 |
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Intel Insight
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: 2eme Regiment Etranger des Parachutistes
Posts: 785
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You should really do your homework with watercooling and do *HEAPS* of reading before you start sticking hoses and radiators inside your computer.
For plenty of water-cooling basics, try the Water Cooling section on www.overclockers.com Many articles there on how to set up, best components to use and so on. Also good links to other websites with more info. As to the cost of watercooling, the best watercooling gear and accesories are sold by: www.silverprop.com and www.pcca.com.au Give these websites a go to find out the prices for waterblocks, pumps, radiators, etc. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,219
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Hmmm checked it out
DD-MAZE-SOCKET $96 DD-COOLING-CUBE $149.50 EHEIM-1048 $145 Tubes n stuff $30 $420.50 approx and its not gonna make it that much cooler ? i think ill just get a new video card =) with peltier you need all that insulation and that doesnt it ? |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 469
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Look at it this way...
You purchase a bloody good Ge-Force II Pro card (possibly an Ultra) and everyone goes, "Why didn't you get a Ge-Force III?" Even though they are all still running TNT 2's. You buy the water cooling gear and they say, "Whoooaaa!" Get the peltier controller kit and you needn't bother with insulation! It will cost the same anyway! See my PCDB entry to see the controller. The white wire that trails off from the PC board has a thermal resistor that you attach to the CPU or cold plate. You adjust the pot on the controller to set the cooling temperature. |
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#6 |
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Intel Insight
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: 2eme Regiment Etranger des Parachutistes
Posts: 785
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I tend to look at it this way...."it's not the destination, but the journey"
who cares if watercooling only lets you o/c another 10MHz or if you have to cope with icicles growing inside your computer or if for the price of all the watercooling gear you could get a faster CPU anyway - you still get the satisfaction that all the time you put in setting it all up and making it all work paid off in the end. That's what makes it all worthwhile. Plus all your friends will be jealous ![]() Also, you might be able to get some things for cheaper from other places. For example, www.coolpc.com.au sell their Senfu radiator for cheaper and it's just as good if not better than the Cooling Cube. |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,219
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Well for a moment there i was thinking about hiding under the desk and hopeing somehow everything will work out . but you guys talked me into it . ill have to stick with the voodoo 3 2000 for a little while longer then =(
thanx for you help |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 371
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If you want to keep costs down find a car heater element for a radiator from the wreckers, an aquarium pump or pond pump for less (I found an 1100 litre per hour Hagen pump for $ 55.00 on sale) and the Cyclone Water block for $ 85.00 from www.coolpc.com - well under $200.00 with all plumbing - or build a bong cooler that works even better than a radiator and costs only a lew dollars.
Last edited by Gandalf; 27th July 2001 at 1:54 PM. |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: melbourne
Posts: 690
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I would advise avoiding senfu products.
Try to read up on as many peoples personal experiances as you can. Especially systems that are similar to yours. I can post some links if you'd like ![]() Another convert!
__________________
You can't have a reasonable discussion with an unreasonable person |
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#10 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 469
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Quote:
Their block is an entirely different kettle of fish! |
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#11 |
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Intel Insight
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: 2eme Regiment Etranger des Parachutistes
Posts: 785
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Their radiator is tops!! When you mod it for use with 3/8" tubing (as I've done) it works like a charm and after sticking a couple of quiet 92mm Panaflo fans instead of the standard 80mm ones onto it I reackon it beats the hell out of any DangerDen cooling cube
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Perth, West Aussie!
Posts: 187
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yes the senfu waterblock is fkn dodgy as shite
not even good enough for a freakin geforce plus it's aluminium so it forms galvanic cell with the copper bits that flow thru the system from the radiator and corodes to shite! The radiator is pure magic though =P make sure you mod it to 3/8" inch though but drilling out the little pipes this increases the water flow four fold!!! (yay 100 posts =P) |
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Alpha Centauri
Posts: 27
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I posted this idea the Hard forums some time ago:
DIY water-cooling solution: Water block Use this design, effective and you can do the silver soldering on the stovetop. http://www.overclockers.com/tips494/ Pump Get a Hydor (German Made) pump from bunnings warehouse for ~$60 Radiator Buy an all-copper heater core from the local auto wreckers for $10 and clean it up using this method http://www.overclockers.com/tips250/ Use silicone tubing, hose clamps, and Teflon tape. The whole thing should come in under $100 |
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Bendigo
Posts: 1,717
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I have tried about everything & the best advise i can give is to use commercial cooling block. I now have a danger den maze2 which i can't speak to highly of, but the silverprop should be just as good. I have built 2 or 3 cololing blocks that worked ok, but i have also destroyed 2 durons & broken the centre lug from 2 asus motherboards. All because of "Bodgy" mounting arrangements. I absolutely beleive that the only way to mount one to the cpu is by using the four holes in the motherboard.
For a radiator i am using a heater core from an EB Falcon and for a pump a Seltz s30. Hope this has been some help.
__________________
I am not young enough to know everything. |
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 1,765
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What are the dimentions on the falcon heater core (approx)?
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