How To. Bitspower in-line temp sensor + XSPC LCD = Joy

Trog Star · 23rd March 2009, 12:48 AM

Special thanks to Greig from GAM Mods for offering to sponsor this guide.

This guide focuses on replacing the entire sensor all the way down to the PCB.
You could simply splice the wires together or install some kind of connector, there's nothing wrong with that.
I simply feel this is a more elegant solution, involving less points of failure

Stuff you need

click any image for an enlargement

Tools you need

Soldering Iron
Solder
Scalpel or other sharp blade
Wire cutters

Important stuff

Disclaimer
At no point do I personally or GAM Mods assume any responsibility or liability if you find yourself eligible for a Darwin Award, Injure yourself, injure others, injure your PC or bring about Armageddon.
Polarity of components
At the time of writing, both the XSPC LCDs with Bispower in-line temp sensors utilised (NTC) thermistors.
These components are not polarised.

Trog Star · 23rd March 2009, 12:50 AM

First thing we need to do is crack the casing open.

I could not manage to do this without damaging the casing, so make sure you open the top

just use your blade to cut away where the clip meets the body.
like so

once the top catches are done, it pretty much pops open.

Gently pull the PCB out so you can get to the other side where the probe wires are soldered on
youl notice that there covered by a small insulating pad, this pad is important.
carefully remove it with your blade and keep it safe

De-Solder the probe wires from the board

Solder in the Bitspower cables, clip the ends and replace the insulation pad.

Put it all back together and were pretty much done
if it's not working properly, just give it a squeeze down the bottom of the case and it should work a treat.

Time to test the accuracy of the sensors

Well I'm pretty happy with that

Trog Star · 23rd March 2009, 12:51 AM

I have mounted 2 probes in my rig.

The 1st one measures the temperature of air entering the big radiator.

Made a bracket from a piece of 3mm aluminium angle.

The other one is being used to monitor water temperature.
it's installed with a Q fitting as is my drain line

with the LCDs mounted up front

I hope anyone who reads this finds it helpful and informative.
I have certainly enjoyed writing this guide and hope to do more soon.

Thanks again to Greig from GAM Mods for offering to sponsor this guide.

BigDave · 23rd March 2009, 4:49 PM

Nice job mate, worth remembering this info.

Chop92per · 23rd March 2009, 4:52 PM

NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(also i am getting my money from Smakked

)

eva2000 · 23rd March 2009, 4:58 PM

wow nice work indeed !

Trog Star · 23rd March 2009, 10:12 PM

thanks guys.

so stoked you like it

xms3500 · 24th March 2009, 6:55 PM

Stoked m8, this is bloody fantastic, something I think I might do with my build.

Just one question m8 when should you have the temp sensors in your loop before the inlet of the rad or on the outlet side, or doesn't it really matter?

Trog Star · 24th March 2009, 9:31 PM

the general concesus seems to be that the tempriture will remain fairly constant throghout the loop.

sorry i dont have a clear answer

might have to test that next time I drain my loop

xms3500 · 24th March 2009, 10:10 PM

NPs m8, I just wasn't sure where it should go, but at least I have something to go on now.

sympozium · 24th March 2009, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xms3500

Just one question m8 when should you have the temp sensors in your loop before the inlet of the rad or on the outlet side, or doesn't it really matter?

question is, where do you want to measure the temp?

personally i measure mine after the blocks and before pump and rad, so i know roughly how much heat is being dumped into my coolant from the blocks, compared to chips temps and ambient temp (although i use a zalman mfc2 to display the output, same thing really, just no decimal places for degrees C reading)

xms3500 · 26th March 2009, 7:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sympozium

question is, where do you want to measure the temp?

personally i measure mine after the blocks and before pump and rad, so i know roughly how much heat is being dumped into my coolant from the blocks, compared to chips temps and ambient temp (although i use a zalman mfc2 to display the output, same thing really, just no decimal places for degrees C reading)

That's what I didn't know m8, exactly where I should have it, but by the sounds of what you have said that would seem to be probably the best place.

ford ftw · 27th March 2009, 11:54 PM

Nice job looks interesting.

Glock · 28th March 2009, 3:27 PM

Very neat work. +1

As for the ponderings re: probe placement, I should think you'd want it somewhere in the reservoir. It'll give you the 'ambient' temp so to speak of your coolant, and so tell you how well the whole system is dealing with the heat you're putting out.

If you put it after the blocks you'll just get an indication of the _rate_ of heatflow. ie. it'll vary with load, even if your loop isn't getting any warmer.

EDIT: If _in_ the res isn't an option, try immeadiately after it, ie. before going through any rad/s block/s.

schnappy · 28th March 2009, 3:33 PM

What's the advantage of replacing the sensor? I'm a bit confused.

23rd March 2009, 12:48 AM	#1
Trog Star Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Blue Mountans, NSW Posts: 948	How To. Bitspower in-line temp sensor + XSPC LCD = Joy Special thanks to Greig from GAM Mods for offering to sponsor this guide. This guide focuses on replacing the entire sensor all the way down to the PCB. You could simply splice the wires together or install some kind of connector, there's nothing wrong with that. I simply feel this is a more elegant solution, involving less points of failure Stuff you need XSPC LCD Bispower in-line temp sensors click any image for an enlargement Tools you need Soldering Iron Solder Scalpel or other sharp blade Wire cutters Important stuff Disclaimer At no point do I personally or GAM Mods assume any responsibility or liability if you find yourself eligible for a Darwin Award, Injure yourself, injure others, injure your PC or bring about Armageddon. Polarity of components At the time of writing, both the XSPC LCDs with Bispower in-line temp sensors utilised (NTC) thermistors. These components are not polarised. Last edited by Trog Star; 23rd March 2009 at 12:52 AM.

23rd March 2009, 12:51 AM	#3
Trog Star Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Blue Mountans, NSW Posts: 948	I have mounted 2 probes in my rig. The 1st one measures the temperature of air entering the big radiator. Made a bracket from a piece of 3mm aluminium angle. The other one is being used to monitor water temperature. it's installed with a Q fitting as is my drain line with the LCDs mounted up front I hope anyone who reads this finds it helpful and informative. I have certainly enjoyed writing this guide and hope to do more soon. Thanks again to Greig from GAM Mods for offering to sponsor this guide. Last edited by Trog Star; 23rd March 2009 at 1:37 AM.

23rd March 2009, 4:49 PM	#4
BigDave Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: ADELAIDE/5018 Posts: 2,389	Nice job mate, worth remembering this info. __________________ Main: - CM690 II,ASUS P8Z68-V PRO,2500K@4.5,16g-G.Skill1600,SLI GTX580,1x120g SSD,1x300g VR,1x640Gb,1x1Tb,LG 27",G19: Under water Server:- TJO8-E, Asock Z77 Pro-4M, i3-2130@3.4,8g-G.Skill 1600, GTX260,1x64Gb ssd, 8x2Tb,Under Water

23rd March 2009, 4:58 PM	#6
eva2000 DDR1/DDR2/DDR3 Addict Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Brisbane, Australia Posts: 21,887	wow nice work indeed ! __________________ * Questions about memory? No PMs Ask on forums * i7 980X Club @4844mhz H20 * Asus P6T6 WS Revo - W3540 @4821 H20 \| W3570 @4997Mhz H20 \| DFI UT X58-T3EH8 USB3.0

23rd March 2009, 10:12 PM	#7
Trog Star Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Blue Mountans, NSW Posts: 948	thanks guys. so stoked you like it __________________ Headset microphone mod Port-a-PC Bitspower in-line temp sensor + XSPC LCD = Joy

23rd March 2009, 12:50 AM	#2
Trog Star Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Blue Mountans, NSW Posts: 948	First thing we need to do is crack the casing open. I could not manage to do this without damaging the casing, so make sure you open the top just use your blade to cut away where the clip meets the body. like so once the top catches are done, it pretty much pops open. Gently pull the PCB out so you can get to the other side where the probe wires are soldered on youl notice that there covered by a small insulating pad, this pad is important. carefully remove it with your blade and keep it safe De-Solder the probe wires from the board Solder in the Bitspower cables, clip the ends and replace the insulation pad. Put it all back together and were pretty much done if it's not working properly, just give it a squeeze down the bottom of the case and it should work a treat. Time to test the accuracy of the sensors Well I'm pretty happy with that

23rd March 2009, 4:52 PM	#5
Chop92per (Banned or Deleted) Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: CraneBrook NSW (2749) Posts: 1,296	NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (also i am getting my money from Smakked )

24th March 2009, 6:55 PM	#8
xms3500 Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Swan Hill Vic Posts: 581	Stoked m8, this is bloody fantastic, something I think I might do with my build. Just one question m8 when should you have the temp sensors in your loop before the inlet of the rad or on the outlet side, or doesn't it really matter? __________________ Folding@Home 80000 Points Milestone Successful Trades: Minidisc,Felony,2QIK4U,Coolmatt,pyr0x,Cathar,MnM,C hoppa,necrodon,balckjok3r,Lombers,branko,the _rick,SH2004,Harbx,Globe,tagrobert,bob(nz),ViperAM D,booj,kr0k, petal666,hourpung,Loop Goose,dark_dragon100,atmo,slyls1,Syvirus

24th March 2009, 9:31 PM	#9
Trog Star Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Blue Mountans, NSW Posts: 948	the general concesus seems to be that the tempriture will remain fairly constant throghout the loop. sorry i dont have a clear answer might have to test that next time I drain my loop __________________ Headset microphone mod Port-a-PC Bitspower in-line temp sensor + XSPC LCD = Joy

24th March 2009, 10:10 PM	#10
xms3500 Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Swan Hill Vic Posts: 581	NPs m8, I just wasn't sure where it should go, but at least I have something to go on now. __________________ Folding@Home 80000 Points Milestone Successful Trades: Minidisc,Felony,2QIK4U,Coolmatt,pyr0x,Cathar,MnM,C hoppa,necrodon,balckjok3r,Lombers,branko,the _rick,SH2004,Harbx,Globe,tagrobert,bob(nz),ViperAM D,booj,kr0k, petal666,hourpung,Loop Goose,dark_dragon100,atmo,slyls1,Syvirus

27th March 2009, 11:54 PM	#13
ford ftw Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,442	Nice job looks interesting. __________________ Successful Trades:edhn, tagrobert, vathink, Hung Mung01, Flanman52, SirNemesis, phi, hadley, irvo44, Skobb, make_out, ironpaw (x2), Kelvin, willy88, Roe, vk2amv, cityhunter07, ThePointer, Ameel, Jon1166,gigs, ausghostdog, JoolzD, Dimtar, pshnfry

28th March 2009, 3:27 PM	#14
Glock Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,248	Very neat work. +1 As for the ponderings re: probe placement, I should think you'd want it somewhere in the reservoir. It'll give you the 'ambient' temp so to speak of your coolant, and so tell you how well the whole system is dealing with the heat you're putting out. If you put it after the blocks you'll just get an indication of the _rate_ of heatflow. ie. it'll vary with load, even if your loop isn't getting any warmer. EDIT: If _in_ the res isn't an option, try immeadiately after it, ie. before going through any rad/s block/s. __________________ White P!!! NINTENDO™ DS Lite Owners Club Member #0060

28th March 2009, 3:33 PM	#15
schnappy Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: 3124 Posts: 585	What's the advantage of replacing the sensor? I'm a bit confused.