My Model Train Set (WARNING many images) - Page 9

Rainey · 9th December 2011, 9:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by texiun

Well...Making me sad here with no updates....So.

Figures Here's some train porn of my layout so far >.>

image

Making slow progress, Wired the second light this evening, Fitted the other point solenoids and wired ect....I keep thinking on how i can expand :|

You could make the inside track cross over the outside track with raised track/bridge on the far side of the table? Hard to explain but I think that might look good and doesn't introduce too much complexity? If you wanted the tracks joined then you could swap them over at this point so they interconnect like a coil?

EDIT: Quite possibly the worst Paint diagram ever:

Loving this thread at the moment, thanks for posting the progress pics! I inherited a bunch of old HO scale trains from my grandfather but I just have them stored away.

texiun · 9th December 2011, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rainey

You could make the inside track cross over the outside track with raised track/bridge on the far side of the table? Hard to explain but I think that might look good and doesn't introduce too much complexity? If you wanted the tracks joined then you could swap them over at this point so they interconnect like a coil?

EDIT: Quite possibly the worst Paint diagram ever:
image

Loving this thread at the moment, thanks for posting the progress pics! I inherited a bunch of old HO scale trains from my grandfather but I just have them stored away.

A bloody good idea, But at this stage my skills are limited, I'm looking to go a flat base track at the moment and my next one should have some elevation included in it. I'll post another picture tonight, Completed the wiring for the second Light. And Both inner and outer line points so their connecting points fire at the same time.

Using Latching relays for the signals and they work wonders.

Planning a sorting yard to be added on the side shortly.

I will say it was an unusual feeling first starting out...All these thoughts...could be an American Focused track...But the longer i went on i realized i wanted a British Main Line/Branch Line.

You should start on your set Rainey!

*EDIT*

Updated pic

Rainey · 9th December 2011, 2:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by texiun

A bloody good idea, But at this stage my skills are limited, I'm looking to go a flat base track at the moment and my next one should have some elevation included in it.

Fair call mate, baby steps hey, get the fundamentals down pat first! It's looking good in that second photo which is much clearer than the first.

Quote:

Originally Posted by texiun

You should start on your set Rainey!

I'd love to one day but I'm really not very good with this sort of thing, so I'd be likely to spend all the money on the gear and never get around to finishing it off. I just noticed you are a fellow Tassie member too, hows about that!

texiun · 9th December 2011, 2:48 PM

Anyone got any tips for hiding the solder joins? Mine are fairly ugh >.<

capt0 · 12th December 2011, 2:59 PM

Solder under the fish plates.

BTW sorry for the lack of updates, I am at the wiring stage and being in Brisbane every other weekend is limiting my time to progress it. I am going to Be in Brisbane all Christmas as well so probably won't progress it until the new year.

So much work to wire up about 25 points and do all the associated push buttons.

texiun · 12th December 2011, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt0

So much work to wire up about 25 points and do all the associated push buttons.

Ouch.

Sounds like a real pain, Do tell me, Are you going to wire up a Programming track? I'm curious on how to do it as at the moment if i have all trains on the line and programs one it does them all >.<

scorpydude · 13th December 2011, 8:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt0

I am going to Be in Brisbane all Christmas as well so probably won't progress it until the new year.

Nooooooooooooo

While It's a pleasure for my city to play host for you Capto... my refresh button is almost worn out

capt0 · 13th December 2011, 1:17 PM

Tesiun, if you look at hte previous pics i uploaded i have a small front yard. I have isolated this yard to use as a programming track. Basically i am going to have an "isolation switch" to turn off power to that track and then program from my pc. I have a sound programming unit for my loco's so don't have to use the clunky roco remote to do it now.

Sayingthis the programming unit allows me to interface my track to my pc which is the eventual plan whn i can find a decent peice of software.

I might do more work on it tonight but lately there have been too many mates online wanting to play HoN.

I did however just get my RJ45 patch panel to install under the control board so I can start to wire now.

pantner · 13th December 2011, 1:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt0

Solder under the fish plates.

Really? I've been told relying on fishplates for power is a no no (ie, each peice of track should have its own droppers)

Quote:

Originally Posted by texiun

Ouch.

Sounds like a real pain, Do tell me, Are you going to wire up a Programming track? I'm curious on how to do it as at the moment if i have all trains on the line and programs one it does them all >.<

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt0

Tesiun, if you look at hte previous pics i uploaded i have a small front yard. I have isolated this yard to use as a programming track. Basically i am going to have an "isolation switch" to turn off power to that track and then program from my pc. I have a sound programming unit for my loco's so don't have to use the clunky roco remote to do it now.

Sayingthis the programming unit allows me to interface my track to my pc which is the eventual plan whn i can find a decent peice of software.

I might do more work on it tonight but lately there have been too many mates online wanting to play HoN.

I did however just get my RJ45 patch panel to install under the control board so I can start to wire now.

What controllers you guys using? I know the NCE PowerCab has a separate connection for a programming track, my ProCab doesn't though.

If you want the trains to be able to drive on and off the track you'd need that track to be always on and the rest of the track having a main switch that you can turn off, and make sure to use isolators between the track!

capt0 · 13th December 2011, 1:47 PM

Panter,

I do not see why you wouldn't be able to solder a wire under a fish plate to put power into the track. I would do multiple connections around the track, maybe every 4-5 metres of track.

In theory it should make no difference where you imput the power to the track because the current has to pass through the fish plates and the rail.

Hornby also make power connecting fish plates that are custom made to connect wires to under the plates.

As for a controller I am unsure the specific model but it is a Roco. It isn't fancy by any strech of the imagination and very slow to use for multiple loco's. I think with the number of loco's i have programmed in it I have out grown it and will probably buy one of the Markiln/Trix ones next year if I cannot get decent PC software.

As for the programming track it is isolated on each rail just inside the first point. Normal mode is main power controlling it and when isolated it is just hte programming unit. But I do not have the programming unit connected to it full time.

pantner · 13th December 2011, 1:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt0

Panter,

I do not see why you wouldn't be able to solder a wire under a fish plate to put power into the track. I would do multiple connections around the track, maybe every 4-5 metres of track.

In theory it should make no difference where you imput the power to the track because the current has to pass through the fish plates and the rail.

Hornby also make power connecting fish plates that are custom made to connect wires to under the plates.

As for a controller I am unsure the specific model but it is a Roco. It isn't fancy by any strech of the imagination and very slow to use for multiple loco's. I think with the number of loco's i have programmed in it I have out grown it and will probably buy one of the Markiln/Trix ones next year if I cannot get decent PC software.

As for the programming track it is isolated on each rail just inside the first point. Normal mode is main power controlling it and when isolated it is just hte programming unit. But I do not have the programming unit connected to it full time.

I've always been told that fishplates are unreliable connections between the track and that each individual peice of track should have droppers on it.

This way you're not relying on a cheap peice of metal to carry the power where 1 bad connection could make half the layout stop working.

My NCE does the controlling and programming in one, never used anything else so didn't know you could get separate units.

capt0 · 13th December 2011, 6:02 PM

Can your NCE upload sounds to your DCC sound decoders?

You need a separate unit that interfaces with a PC to upload sounds into the sound decoders. My standard unit also programs the loco's normal CV's but it is unable to upload new sounds.

pantner · 13th December 2011, 7:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt0

Can your NCE upload sounds to your DCC sound decoders?

You need a separate unit that interfaces with a PC to upload sounds into the sound decoders. My standard unit also programs the loco's normal CV's but it is unable to upload new sounds.

Ah k, now i understand. It's simply cv programming, no new sounds.

andrew_bg · 16th December 2011, 6:47 AM

Fantastic thread!
I'm just setting up for the kids (9 and 6) Christmas present, 4'x8' board fold away train cupboard.
Santa is bringing them a basic Hornby DCC kit, but I managed to buy a complete setup from a friend of my Fathers.

The question that I have, is that I know that the DCC stuff is compatible between each other, ie the Hornby train will work with the Roco controllers that I just got, but I am thinking is that can I use the Hornby DCC controller with the Roco controllers on the same track?

I have 2 x Roco controllers in the complete setup that I bought, but it would be handy to be able to use the brand new Hornby controller too.
Worst comes to worst I'll isolate a track for the Hornby.

Sorry for hijacking the thread, it is a great inspiration and I will making my own thread over christmas for our build.

And yes, this is a Daddy present as much as the kids :-)

capt0 · 16th December 2011, 8:10 AM

I am not an expert iwth multiple controlers but check www.dcc-concepts.com for some info. But I believe you need to "stack" controllers. So they piggy back off of each other, you need to buy stacking units for the controllers or similar.

I know it is possible to have multiple DCC hand units controling 1 layout.

Make this a daddy present:

16th December 2011, 6:47 AM	#134
andrew_bg Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Kellyville Posts: 980	Fantastic thread! I'm just setting up for the kids (9 and 6) Christmas present, 4'x8' board fold away train cupboard. Santa is bringing them a basic Hornby DCC kit, but I managed to buy a complete setup from a friend of my Fathers. The question that I have, is that I know that the DCC stuff is compatible between each other, ie the Hornby train will work with the Roco controllers that I just got, but I am thinking is that can I use the Hornby DCC controller with the Roco controllers on the same track? I have 2 x Roco controllers in the complete setup that I bought, but it would be handy to be able to use the brand new Hornby controller too. Worst comes to worst I'll isolate a track for the Hornby. Sorry for hijacking the thread, it is a great inspiration and I will making my own thread over christmas for our build. And yes, this is a Daddy present as much as the kids :-) __________________ CouponMeUp.com - Find over 380,000 discount coupons for over 101,000 stores. PimpMyBrew.com - Pimp your home brew creation with our temperature controlled fermentation system

9th December 2011, 2:48 PM	#124
texiun Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Tasmania Australia Posts: 251	Anyone got any tips for hiding the solder joins? Mine are fairly ugh >.<

12th December 2011, 2:59 PM	#125
capt0 Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Brisbane Posts: 168	Solder under the fish plates. BTW sorry for the lack of updates, I am at the wiring stage and being in Brisbane every other weekend is limiting my time to progress it. I am going to Be in Brisbane all Christmas as well so probably won't progress it until the new year. So much work to wire up about 25 points and do all the associated push buttons.

13th December 2011, 1:17 PM	#128
capt0 Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Brisbane Posts: 168	Tesiun, if you look at hte previous pics i uploaded i have a small front yard. I have isolated this yard to use as a programming track. Basically i am going to have an "isolation switch" to turn off power to that track and then program from my pc. I have a sound programming unit for my loco's so don't have to use the clunky roco remote to do it now. Sayingthis the programming unit allows me to interface my track to my pc which is the eventual plan whn i can find a decent peice of software. I might do more work on it tonight but lately there have been too many mates online wanting to play HoN. I did however just get my RJ45 patch panel to install under the control board so I can start to wire now.

13th December 2011, 1:47 PM	#130
capt0 Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Brisbane Posts: 168	Panter, I do not see why you wouldn't be able to solder a wire under a fish plate to put power into the track. I would do multiple connections around the track, maybe every 4-5 metres of track. In theory it should make no difference where you imput the power to the track because the current has to pass through the fish plates and the rail. Hornby also make power connecting fish plates that are custom made to connect wires to under the plates. As for a controller I am unsure the specific model but it is a Roco. It isn't fancy by any strech of the imagination and very slow to use for multiple loco's. I think with the number of loco's i have programmed in it I have out grown it and will probably buy one of the Markiln/Trix ones next year if I cannot get decent PC software. As for the programming track it is isolated on each rail just inside the first point. Normal mode is main power controlling it and when isolated it is just hte programming unit. But I do not have the programming unit connected to it full time.

13th December 2011, 6:02 PM	#132
capt0 Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Brisbane Posts: 168	Can your NCE upload sounds to your DCC sound decoders? You need a separate unit that interfaces with a PC to upload sounds into the sound decoders. My standard unit also programs the loco's normal CV's but it is unable to upload new sounds.

16th December 2011, 8:10 AM	#135
capt0 Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Brisbane Posts: 168	I am not an expert iwth multiple controlers but check www.dcc-concepts.com for some info. But I believe you need to "stack" controllers. So they piggy back off of each other, you need to buy stacking units for the controllers or similar. I know it is possible to have multiple DCC hand units controling 1 layout. Make this a daddy present: