[Build] HyperCube 3D Printer

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by oRiCLe, Feb 22, 2017.

  1. hoopstar

    hoopstar Member

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    I also thought 10mm would be about the sweat spot and was a little surprised when I measured the Ultimakers being 12mm.. I just assumed they were 10mm.

    I hadn't picked up on your metal mounts - that's a neat idea I might copy.

    I had also thought of somehow running the flange linear bearings on the Z-axis fork but that might be after I've got mine up and running.

    Loving the build oRiCLe... keep up the great work and details. :thumbup:
     
  2. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    I did consider that, only issues I thought may occur is lining up the lead screw position if the flange was screwed to the long and cross bar on the Z platform if that makes sense

    I do have some here from a previous build so i can check the theory...
     
  3. hoopstar

    hoopstar Member

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    Whats the quality of the Z-axis rod mounts like that you've ordered in terms of:

    1. Flatness of mounting face?
    2. Centration of rod bore versus the two mounting screws?
    3. Squareness of rod bore versus the two mounting screws?
    4. Are they extruded or cast parts?

    From some of the photos I've seen on line, the quality looks a little rough?

    [​IMG]
     
  4. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    They are cast, possibly machine bored afterwards tho for precision in the rod fitment, all take the rods snugly and clamp down nicely.

    These are the actual ones I bought (a few years ago now):

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112132395270

    In terms of "roughness" if they were it is not going to affect much (compare it to a 3d printed version which can vary up to 0.1mm or more depending on how well calibrated the printer is, then factor in squish, cooling, material, humidity, temperature etc...

    If it was for a thou or micron critical precision machine, then no, i wouldn't use them, or if i did, I would at least put them in a mill and machine them and grind them to consistent sizes and flatness...but for a 3d printer...being that you are essentially aligning the "vertical-ness" of the axis by hand anyway for the rods, and stepping up from a 3d printed part they will be more than adequate when it comes to relative movement.

    In perspective, if you cut your 2020 even 1mm too short on one side...your whole frame isn't square anymore, but the advantage of CoreXY is that it is not critical as long as the opposing rods are equidistance apart and parallel, everything moves as it should and consistent inside the dimensions.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2017
  5. hoopstar

    hoopstar Member

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    I guess they're probably at least as accurate as something you would print out (as you say, we're typically working to +/1 0.1mm tolerances on a 3D printer)..

    At the end of the day, they're going to be stiffer than anything you could print, so expect they'd be a better option - certainly a great mod.

    Any other mods you're putting into this? (read: more photos please) :)
     
  6. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    Mostly assembled now, had to cut down the 2020 and re-tap the ends for the corner cubes, now just have to cut down the 8mm X-rods to fit and then hook up the belts and wire it all up :D

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    Okay finally unpacked and back on track...

    - Belts are now set and tensioned
    - E3D V6 is installed
    - BLTouch is installed (wiring just needs soldering and connecting)
    - need to reinstall extruder motor
    - need to connect my optical X and Y endstops

    then its testing, levelling and calibration time...

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  8. thedealer

    thedealer Member

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    Is that cabinet from IKEA? Looks familiar to one I've seen someone use to display their board game miniatures.

    HyperCube is looking great too ;)
     
  9. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    It's alive!

    https://youtu.be/S3tzuRZD5lM

    Just finished working out how to get the BLTouch to work on the RE-Arm board and worked out I put the X plate on backwards so I need to flip that so I am a home X to the Min position instead of Max but it works for now.

    Now to level the bed and run a test print :)
     
  10. Optimus.

    Optimus. Member

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    Interested on your thoughts of the bed axis vs the voron. This one doesn't look as stable but it's certainly chunkier.
     
  11. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    Well yeah it's not as solid as the voron, and at anything over say 1500mm/a acceleration it can get a bit bouncy (given I have a fair bit of weight cantilevered with the alloy plate so I kind of expected that) but I just did a full plate print, BLTouch did one probe in the centre and no compensation, and it was perfect across the whole plate, remove press print and exactly the same again...just need to work out some anti bounce but I like it a lot more :)
     
  12. aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    Check out the Hypercube Evolution design - uses 3030 extrusions with a few less parts to print - looks decent too, though a work in progress. There is a version with dual leadscrews on the Z axis (like the Voron) - this is the version I think I'll build.
     
  13. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    I did see it, personally i don't see a need for the 3030 frame as I don't think that is the root of the flex issues that induce the ringing etc

    I have seen somewhere another version somewhere or similar that uses 2040 that looked interesting also, i think it was on Reddit.

    The motion axes moving at speed will still induce flex in the belts, bearings and motors on direction changes, i'm just focusing on getting the carbon fibre rods in when they arrive and a few other tweaks to hopefully lighten the X carriage and got an idea to get dual lead with a single motor without the giant belt running across the bottom of the printer also to stop the plate bounce...

    Interested to compare and see results tho if you head down that path!

    I was considering 3030 frame for a little PCB mill I am designing but I think i'll end up along the lines of 2040 and/or 2060.
     
  14. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    So only a couple of updates to the printer so far and another mod in the works at the moment...

    - Upgraded the X axis to 10mm carbon rods
    - Upgraded my crappy Chinese aluminium extruder to a VORON flex extruder

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So experimenting now with wear and tear on the carbon rods, put about 5 hours through them so far and no issues...

    And currently in progress is going back to the dual sided VORON style Z axis with a few differences...not happy with the build plate "bounce" as the MIC-6 is quite heavy for the cantilever...
     
  15. aXLe

    aXLe Member

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    awesome :) I've started buying parts for my build of the evolution spinoff with dual Z axis - so far just the E3D V6 hotend, bondtech QR extruder, MKS SBase running smoothieware with the 3.2 colourTFT. Also got a complete E3D Volcano setup - hoping to make a Volcano 'cartridge' for quick changes from V6 to Volcano.

    I ended up recreating every part on the evolution taking measurements from the STL files so I have the whole printer modelled in CAD and can tweak the design if need be for different heat set inserts or whatever changes I would like to make in future. Always nice to have source files and I will print the parts from my fileset.

    There is a bit of space behind the bed so I've added some additional extrusions to form a cavity at the back which will be closed in with acrylic sheeting - that's where the PSU and control electronics will live. Should be able to make it look pretty nice. What sizes acrylic can you laser cut? I may be employing your services there :)

    My build volume is 400 x 300 x 300 - I need to find a good source for MIC6 or ATP5 in 420 x 320 x 6.35. Or perhaps some other cast plate?
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2017
  16. malletta

    malletta Member

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    Going to build one of these too.. still deciding if the Evo is much better than the original. I have a 300x300 D-bot.. want to build a smaller machine.. heating up a 300x300 for a trinket seems a bit much =\
     
  17. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    Just about finished printing all the bits for my dual Z setup will post some pics soon...

    Essentially the same as what they did with the Evo, just another set of the same parts on the other side and then you access the printer through the side instead of the front (so if your OCD about symmetry its probably not for you :p ), and going to run a belt between the dual lead screws to keep it level too as that was the problem i had with the VORON
     
  18. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    Dual Z up and running, just waiting for the link belt to arrive but should work fine for now...

    [​IMG]
     
  19. malletta

    malletta Member

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    nice!

    I've ordered a bunch of stuff from Banggood and asked Aurarum for a custom hypercube frame. Just made the Z axis 500mm instead of 350.
     
  20. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    Can you guess what my next mod for the Cube will be? :p

    [​IMG]
     

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