3D Printer General Chat

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Spanos, May 26, 2021.

  1. garfield2k

    garfield2k Member

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    watch some videos on setting it up too. ie - making sure its all square, rollers are adjusted etc and screws are tight and loctite if needed as well. those are the main causes for problems and print defects which you would rather not be trying to troubleshoot on your first prints :p
    the z axis is probably the hardest to set up so pay attention to that with the rollers on either side and the lead screw.

    as for modeling software, i like solidworks but have been using it for a long time so am used to it (there is a free academic version).
    not sure about built in slicers but there a few different slicers out there, all with preset configs for the ender so really a matter of finding one with features you like. cura, slicer3d etc
     
  2. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    Not really, no, at least not the big names.

    You typically will model the file in your 3D program of choice, e.g. Fusion360/AutoCAD/BricsCAD/SolidWorks. Then you will save the model generally as a step format, which will allow you to edit and change it after. Take that step file and export it to a slicer-compatible format, for example, a stl file.

    Import the stl file, orientate the object on the bed, set the settings /profile you want, and slice. Export, print….ok, there’s a bit more in this sliver-process, but just the general flow…
     
  3. Benno1988

    Benno1988 Member

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    Ok. I see.

    What's the slicer of choice for Ender 3 V2 ?
     
  4. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I use Cura or PrusaSlicer. Both do the job well.
    The important part is getting the correct profile for printer/filament and installing it in the slicer.
    For some good profiles for Ender printers, check out CHEP on youtube.
     
  5. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    I believe Fusion 360 can send files straight to printer but most people just use a dedicated slicer. Most are free and very customizable.

    Having a dedicated slicer also means you can slice models you did not create (from STL files)
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2021
  6. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    I have mainly been using PrusaSlicer, but now also starting to play with super slicer, which seems to have a few more options. Will dig a bit deeper into that one, will probably use it for Nemesis.

    Edit: Still battling with Bridges. So downloaded Super Slicer to my spare laptop and hooked it up via USB to the Prusa. Now printing some build-in calibration tools, like Flow Calibration, Temperature Calibration, etc, to see what this filament prefers wrt Flow, temp.

    That should help me sort out the bridging finally....
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2021
  7. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    ^^ Just for reference, printed a temp-tower last night, the one available in Super Slicer. Print at 10deg C intervals. 5 steps, decreasing from 275 to 235deg C. The bridging was just about perfect at 235 deg C with the eSun ePA-CF, although layer-adhesion was pretty weak. At 275drg C, it was very strong, at the low-end though, quite weak.

    But a good start, knowing it can be improved, next will be a flow-test with this specific filament, to ensure extruder flow-rate is where it needs to be. After that, I will recheck with a temperature-tower. Once both optimal flow and temps are sorted, I will see what I can do with cooling. I m hoping flow-calibration will get me up in running good bridges at 250-255 deg C, let’s see. More later.

    Apologies for the rambling, just keeping my thoughts together.
     
  8. garfield2k

    garfield2k Member

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    nice work. been meaning to get some of that filament.
     
  9. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    ^^ Haha, due to the lock-downs mucking with my mental faculties, I decided to order anther 2 rolls of the ePA-CF yesterday. Even with a very busy AusPost, it still made it out to me this arvo. So now I am set to reprint all Nemesis' bits out of Nylon-CF. Just need to hide the box away so the Missus don't see it.

    Otherwise I am one very ded beano.

    If I can sort out bridging for this stuff on my Prusa, so I can print the new hot-end carriage for the large printer, as I will use Skynet magic to reprint its own bits :)
     
  10. apsilon

    apsilon Member

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    Can I assume you're printing this without an enclosure? I'm still new to all this and have only been using PLA and PETG but longer term I do want to produce items for outdoor and car interior and under bonnet use where temps will be more of an issue so these other filaments are of interest.
     
  11. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    Hey Mate,
    Yes, just using my small Prusa MK3 for the moment. The filament likes 260 deg C hot-end, and then 80 deg C bed temps. I sticks very well to standard blue painters-tape applied to the bed. Appears dimensionally stable without using an enclosure.

    Just take note, you will need to convert a food dehydrator to a filament dryer, as Nylon needs to be baked for 8-12 hours at 70 deg C. I found that baking this at 60 deg C for roughly 12 hours, works very well. After this, I just drop the temperature down to 45 deg C and print directly from the dehydrator. I converted a cheap $45 unit from Kmart, works very well. Can post some pix if you want to see what it looks like....

    edit: See attached:

    1) Did a basic start-from-fresh calibration for my Prusa
    2) Set offset for the Nozzle-to-bed at -1,025mm, this will depend on your Pinda probe mounting, etc, will be different for each one with a Prusa MK3
    3) Performed a few of the Super Slicer build-in tests yesterday:
    - 1st Layer Calibration
    - Extruder Flow
    - Temperature Tower

    Warmed up bed to std PET 230/80 profile in Prusa. Then printed from SD card, came very well. Still need to play a bit with bridging calibration, I see there is a project file for that in Super Slicer too. But overall, a lovely filament, provided you dry it before hand...it is highly hygroscopic, but a joy to work with.

    Also attached, a close-up of the printing-finish, this on the back-plate for the EVA platform X-carriage. And this is at 20microns, and no, I am absolutely no superman where 3d printing is concerned, there will be many specialists here on OCAU that will tweak this material to perfection. I think my total time tweaking my printer for it is less that 2 hours.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 4, 2021
    apsilon likes this.
  12. apsilon

    apsilon Member

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    Good to know, thanks. I've got a Prusa so that info will help when I reach that point. Fairly certain I have an old food dehydrator somewhere as well. That's a while off yet though but good to know I should be able to do it when the time comes.
     
  13. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    All good Mate, just holler if I can help in any way.
     
  14. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    apsilon, All: Just a general comment re the eSun ePA-CF: You can get really nice bridging when printing the filament at 235 deg C, but then layer adhesion is terrible, leading to weak parts. I find a good balance at around 260 deg C, but max strength at about 270 deg C. Just note however, at higher temps, if you do need to use supports, they fuse quite badly with the filament. I will need to play a lot more to find settings that works well both with and without supports.
     
  15. apsilon

    apsilon Member

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    Probably need to increase support spacing. I know the first few prints I did with supports, the supports were a real pain to remove and that was just PLA. Once I increased the spacing they broke away much easier yet still worked perfectly.
     
  16. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    Good points. Its almost never 'set and forget' when it comes to printer settings eh? There's always a trade off between various different factors depending on what is being printed! I'm always changing my settings.

    Just got my first y direction layer shift in this printer. It's the first print that I've done that uses the first full height of the build volume, but it has occurred down low about 50 mm in height. Not sure if the issue has always been there and I haven't caught it as most things I print are pretty low or if its a new problem. Gonna let the print go as its only been one layer. Guess I'll find out if it was an anomaly or an actual issue through the print.
     
  17. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    True, Spanos, but it’s anyway (more or less) fun tinkering with these things, haha. But I will get on top of it, will be a new learning curve once my HevORT is finally fully commissioned. Having some hassles with the diy HextrudORT extruder, so need to fit a few pieces to test the Orbiter. Hopefully that works.

    apsilon: Played around with spacing last night, but some places it still fuses pretty badly, need to work a bit more on it. But will get it done at some point, as Spanos says above :)
     
  18. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    I like playing around with the different settings and the like, less so tinkering with the printer itself.

    I'm busily printing a knock box for the coffee machine right now. Its 140 mm in diameter and constructed in two pieces that screw together. Its overall height is about 250 mm and the bottom piece is 145 mm in height. It's a 60+ hr print for the bottom part as I tend to print quite slow. There are now two y axis shifts in the print. The first one is about 1.5 mm and is less than the thickness of the outer shell. The second shift is about 2.6 mm so is wider than the outer shell. So now, I'm making a failed prints bin apparently. hahaha. The second shift happened about 26% of the way up the print. There was a bit of a thunk when the second shift happened. Not sure if the head crashed into the print and there is something loose letting the y-axis shift or what. Guess I'm going to have to give it a 'service' once this print is done, see if I can find anything. My guess is on something being loose as the surface isn't quite as good as it usually is.
     
  19. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    Ha, that’s interesting. Perhaps stretched belts? But damn, I will throw my toys out if that chit had to happen well into a 60-hour print. Bloody chit. I have been very lucky with the Prusa thus far, but have developed a habit of doing a start-from-scratch calibration once a quarter perhaps, depending on how much I print.

    That way it picks up differences between x- and y, compensated for misalignment etc….

    Anyway just printing a heavily modified EVA extruder part for my HevORT, hoping to do some serious prints in it soon. Will be a few times faster than my Prusa. As you can see, I enjoy both sides of the fence, filament settings, as well as mechanics and electronics.

    But it’s a rather deep and squiggly rabbit-hole…
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2021
  20. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    Oh yeah. It was a bit disappointing when I work up to find that this morning. Oh well, it's gonna be repurposed to a failed prints bin. It's gotta be water tight and this bad boy just ain't anymore! This print just ain't playing the game, but its the first large tall one I've done so I was expecting there to be issues.

    Yeah, I've been umming and ahhhing about whether I pick up a kit printer like a prusa. This ones ok but I bought it second hand for about the same as a new entry printer. Kinda want something that does auto bed levelling as well as higher temps for nylon and polycarbonate. Thought about upgrading it but I feel like that's just sinking new coin into old tech.

    I've been watching the HevORT build thread. It's a decent sized printer. Fair bit of work to get going tho!
     

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