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3D Printer General Chat

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Spanos, May 26, 2021.

  1. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Perth , St James
    In most cases the slicer will try and fill the gap but its always a bit messy and takes a long time relative to a standard wall.
     
  2. hlokk

    hlokk Member

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    Depends on the extrusion width which may or may not be the nozzle width. It's common in some slicers to be slightly over nozzle width.
     
  3. ernie

    ernie Member

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    Dec 2, 2002
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    Brisbane
    Got a problem.

    I have a stock standard Ender 5 Pro.
    Been trying to print a bookshelf speaker box side panel using black eSun PLA+ at 210C with 60C bed temp 40mm/s feed rate.

    The panel is 210mm x 155mm x 8mm with a 0.2mm layer height and 10% infill.

    When it cools and I remove the panel from the hot bed, it's warped downward, which starts about 30mm from the edges and ends up being out by 1.5mm by the time you reach the edge.

    I checked the bed with a straight edge and it's dead flat.

    Normally warping occurs upwards from something like a bed adhesion problem, but this is exactly the opposite direction.
    It's an 8hr print so it pisses me off big time.

    Any ideas where to look?


    - Ernie.
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2019
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    69
    Pics?
     
  5. ernie

    ernie Member

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    Nvm, I seem to have partially solved it, or at least on a track.

    I changed the infill from 10% to 15% and changed the infill pattern from "lines" to "Tri-hexagons" after reading this page: https://all3dp.com/2/cura-infill-patterns-all-you-need-to-know/ which said that Tri-hexagons" was a strong pattern, then did another 8hr print and it is way better, still a bit curved at the edges but less than half as much. The warping seems to occur after the part has been removed from the bed, even though it was allowed to cool to room temp before removal.

    This is the thing I am trying to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4668173

    It's the white side panels that are warping on cooling, which is an issue because they have to be an air tight seal with the middle folded horn part.


    - Ernie.
     
  6. mtma

    mtma Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2009
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    6,110
    Yeah that happens, it's because each time a nice hot layer is printed, it will shrink as it solidifies which creates internal stresses inside the part that in for the most part will pull up corners, and is most noticeable on large flat parts.

    There are some strategies to mitigate the issue, you can try printing the side entirely upright for example, or turn the part upside down so the warp is mostly on the side that you're not using.
     
  7. Franc

    Franc Member

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    Jul 10, 2003
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    5,083
    Location:
    Melbourne North Sub
    And I have just bought a Formbot Voron. Having the large SV03s I hate having to wait for prints.

    Got it with the Dragon High flow and bought a wiring kit from the UK as I have no interest in 10 hours of crimping.
     
    m3k and theSeekerr like this.
  8. brayway

    brayway Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2008
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    New Zealand
    Finally got around to putting my "Ender 3 v2" back together, for what's remaining of an ender 3 haha.

    SKR E3 Turbo, Briss Fang shroud, 2nd Z screw/motor, running on its own stepper driver.
    Noctua fans, BL Touch, Direct Drive, BTT smart filament runout sensor, all the 'goodies'. Not really much of an original Ender 3 v2 left really apart from the PSU and extrusion
    Pi 4 4GB, running Klipper, esun dry box/scale.
    A few more bits to setup, and lots of cabling to clean up, but need to print some enclosures for the LM2596 step down units.

    What a pain it's been, but hopefully once I get the final bits of calibration done, it should be quick and reliable.
    Looking forward to seeing what it's capable of.

    [​IMG]
     
    Defyant likes this.
  9. Franc

    Franc Member

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    Interesting....How much does all that extra plastic weigh?
     
  10. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Never finished , Still lots you can do.

    Linear rail upgrades.
    Move that LED stripe into the V slot. (If you dremmel a tiny grove in the Top V slot you can run LEDs in a U shade inside the frame and have the wiring start from teh bottom hiding it. Get light from all around then. )
    V slot covers
    Webcam
    Cable Chains

    What system are you using to manage Klipper? I'm using Octoprint and klipper however by Auto Bed leveling is not working ( probe works fine, just mesh seem to apply in reverse making level worse not better) and I'm hoping moving away from Octoprint will help.
     
  11. garfield2k

    garfield2k Member

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2006
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    Location:
    Melbourne
    im using mainsail with klipper for both the ender and voron, with klipperscreen (similar UI to octoscreen) to run a touchscreen on the pi as well. works great, though keeping it up to date is a pain sometimes
     
  12. Kosti

    Kosti Member

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2001
    Messages:
    1,519
    Location:
    Sydney
    Hey All,
    So selling one of my 3D printers HERE, am wondering if it's over priced or people just need BLTouch etc these days and beginners don't like to fiddling with fine tuning?

    I am impress with the latest marlin which has added a lot of great features from the original RC 1.X.X release it had when I first got it. Never got into the Klipper yet.

    I was plaining on adding linear rails to it but figured the next person could do that to leave about the bed and levelling..

    Cheers
    Kosti
     
  13. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Second hard printer just have a very bad resale value. Especially modded ones so its never really cost effective to do it for resale.

    Just about a human mind set.
    If you want something to tinker with you don't want a pre-tinkerd device.
    If you don't want to tinker you most likely want something that has not been tinkered with as that adds an aspect of the unknown.
     
    tumutbound and Kosti like this.
  14. brayway

    brayway Member

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    7,018
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Have considered linear rails, but I've heard it's not really worth the $200-300 for the upgrade.
    Strip is quite too wide to fit in the V slot, would need a narrower one, which isn't a terrible idea in the first place. That's an excessive WS2812 with a Dig-Uno controller, totally unnecessary.
    Webcam wise I didn't have it bolted up in that pic, but have a Wyze cam chilling there for now, did have a PiCam, but it was playing up (cheap copy).
    Cable chains I'm considering still, really not sure if it's worth the effort.

    Currently running mainsail as well, seems to work well, had a few issues that have been more machine related than anything mainsail/klipper related.

    Have had some accuracy issues with my BLTouch, but that's been mount related, but caused the Auto Z Gantry leveling to never actually work. Printed another bracket, which is already broken, so really need to get that sorted, but need the printer more dialed in first too. Damn reliance on printed parts and only one printer lol.
     
  15. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Location:
    Geeveston, Tasmania
    Linear rails don't cost nearly that much (unless you go with HiWin rails). I did my Ender 5 for under $50. I did have to buy an adapter kit from PrinterMods to use the rail, it cost about $30.
    Rails have held up well for the 12 months I've been using them.
    You do need to give the cheap Aliexpress rails a really good clean and re-lubricate before use.
     
    brayway likes this.
  16. brayway

    brayway Member

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    Speaking of, I'd love some feedback on what to troubleshoot here. I'm not sure exactly what's causing the prints to come out like this.
    Bed is level (thanks Klipper and it's Screws_tilt_calculate). I've attempted pressure advance calibration, but due to prints looking crap, it's difficult to adjust.
    Extruder has been calibrated, This is the temp test from teachingtech.
    Not sure what might be wrong

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Franc

    Franc Member

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    Is the first layer on a different temp / speed than the second and more? as it looks like none of hte layers after the first are printing correctly based on the pointy thing to the right. chuck the gcode you used in the printer in chat might help
     
  18. brayway

    brayway Member

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    Yeah, starts at 202 for the first layer, then drops to 190, then 200, 210, etc.


    Code:
    ; custom start gcode
    START_PRINT BED_TEMP=65 EXTRUDER_TEMP=202
    ;process Process-1
    ;layer 1, Z = 0.200
    ;T0
    G92 E0.0000
    G1 E-0.4 F2700 ; custom retraction
    ;fan1;
    G1 Z0.200 F1200
    G1 X89.3780 Y110.5720 F6000
    G1 E0 F2700 ; custom un-retraction/prime
    G92 E0.0000
    G1 X90.4300 Y110.1360 E0.0491 F1800
    G1 X145.5700 Y110.1360 E2.4259
    G1 X146.6220 Y110.5720 E2.4750
    G1 X150.4280 Y114.3780 E2.7070
    G1 X150.8640 Y115.4300 E2.7561
    G1 X150.8640 Y120.5700 E2.9777
    G1 X150.4280 Y121.6220 E3.0268
    G1 X146.6220 Y125.4280 E3.2588
    G1 X145.5700 Y125.8640 E3.3079
    G1 X90.4300 Y125.8640 E5.6847
    G1 X89.3780 Y125.4280 E5.7338
    G1 X85.5720 Y121.6220 E5.9658
    G1 X85.1360 Y120.5700 E6.0149
    G1 X85.1360 Y115.4300 E6.2364
    G1 X85.5720 Y114.3780 E6.2855
    G1 X89.3780 Y110.5720 E6.5175
    G92 E0.0000
    G1 E-0.4 F2700 ; custom retraction
    ;zhop1
    G1 X89.7040 Y111.0600 F6000
    G1 Z0.200 F1200
    G1 E0 F2700 ; custom un-retraction/prime
    G92 E0.0000
    G1 X90.5450 Y110.7120 E0.0392 F1800
    G1 X145.4550 Y110.7120 E2.4061
    G1 X146.2960 Y111.0600 E2.4454
    -- snip--
    G1 X143.2960 Y114.7860 E28.7961
    G1 X146.2140 Y117.7040 E28.9739
    G1 X146.2140 Y116.8890 E29.0091
    G1 X144.1110 Y114.7860 E29.1373
    G92 E0.0000
    G1 E-0.4 F2700 ; custom retraction
    M104 S190 T0 ; custom hot end temp - A
    M106 S255; custom fan 100% from layer 2
    G1 Z0.400 F1200
    G1 X144.5030 Y114.2000 F6000
    G1 E0 F2700 ; custom un-retraction/prime
    G92 E0.0000
    G1 X146.8000 Y116.4970 E0.1167 F2880
    G1 X146.8000 Y119.5030 E0.2247
    
    
    --Snip--
     
  19. brayway

    brayway Member

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    I'm starting to think it might be the cooling?

    This print didn't look all too bad, but it appeared to miss an entire layer, and then continue, but the weakness meant it did break off during the print.
    The overhang also looked pretty terrible.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    2,693
    Location:
    Perth , St James
    Most RGB strips are 10mm wide, they will fit in the Rails, just has to be fed from one end. If its more than 10mm then its a no go.

    It could be a few things but I think heat is one for sure. I had that issue when I started with ABS, everyone said high temps and no cooling, turned out that I needed cooling . Also if you missed a layer it was most likely a small jam caused by heat creep.

    I would try a lower temp, maybe 180C as a base.
    Then maybe check the part cooling fan and set higher.
     

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