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3D Printer General Chat

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Spanos, May 26, 2021.

  1. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2006
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    Perth , St James
    i had the same issue when printing ABS at first.

    Everyone says no cooling for ABS but its does need some. I think most people just have leaky hot ends so they get a bit wether its wanted or not.

    The plastic stays molten for too long and the nozzel drags it around abit which is why it looks horrible.
     
    m3k likes this.
  2. mtma

    mtma Member

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    Aug 12, 2009
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    Just check that your layer adhesion is still good enough with some test prints, ABS's layer adhesion changes somewhat more from cooling compared with PETG and PLA which is one of the reasons why you find the advice to be not to use cooling. The other reason is that the shrinkage warp will get to you on larger prints.
     
  3. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    Yeah, I've got no idea how they can get a print to work without cooling. All my prints were only a few short defects from inviting the spaghetti monster. They were bad.

    I turn the cooling on after the first layer is printed. At 240 degrees tho, the print can only just keep up with the fan on. the heaters are running flat out and struggling to maintain temp.
     
  4. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    Defyant Modded "Tail" Lights!
    Some thing new to play with ") was thinking about a rat rig but really want to play with resin. Some of the prints i keep seeing from these things are just next level. Bit shocked just how big these things are but can't wait to play :)

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    Defyant Modded "Tail" Lights!
    Finally :) Wash and cure arrives ! i love they sit side by side !

    [​IMG]

    Still deciding if to run these in with the fdm's or out in the workshop :)

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2022
    woja and Spanos like this.
  6. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    Printed anything yet?
     
  7. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    Defyant Modded "Tail" Lights!
    this weekend :)
     
    Spanos likes this.
  8. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    Defyant Modded "Tail" Lights!
    What have i gotten my self into ! :shock:

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Frag_Lord

    Frag_Lord Member

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    Nov 23, 2004
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    Location:
    Adelaide
    Have my first printer turning up this week, a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 from a friend who has barely used it and has moved onto other things. Super keen for it!
     
  10. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    Have fun! Wat are you going to do with it?
     
  11. Frag_Lord

    Frag_Lord Member

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    Just some fun projects at first, probably some goro mounts for specific helmets, my wife wants to start printing some craft bits and pieces to sell aswell.
     
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  12. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    Defyant Modded "Tail" Lights!
    My goto printers when ever thyr not printing for orders :D

    My Mando helmet is at about 70% now :thumbup:
     
  13. Frag_Lord

    Frag_Lord Member

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    The deal was far too good to pass up including a heap of filament for a couple month old printer
     
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  14. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    So, this was happening. 20220127_133608.jpg

    So I was hoping I'd be ok and be able to finish the print. But then. The spaghetti monster came along.

    20220127_141812.jpg

    So that's not cool. And I was a bit surprised because I literally can't pry an ABS print off even with a paint scraper.

    So I checked the heat bed for temperature using a cheapie infra-red thermometer and found 110 on the heat bed at the heater. The bed was fairly warm still at the back of the plate but the front left where the adhesion failed was just 45 degrees! The chamber temp is 43 degrees so it's not transferring any heat there. The front right corner was only 55 degrees.

    Not sure if I want to replace the bed with the same heat bed because there's been a failure or if it has always been like that due to its design? The heat bed does have a magnet and PEI printing surface, but it still sits at 110 degrees which is what it was set too.

    Can't seem to find an upgraded heat bed for the Creator Pro yet, but I've only spent about 5 mins of googling.
     
  15. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    So, preheated the heat bed again tonight. Set it at 110 and then chucked the infra-red thermometer on it. Let the heat soak for about 30 mins to see what happens. The centre was about 8 degrees low, probably because of the magnet and PEI sheet instead of the original buildtak surface. So I'll have to remember to offset the temperature by 10 degrees.

    I also played with the connectors at the back of the heat bed and felt like I could push them in a little bit.

    Now, the temp falls off quite dramatically from about 15 mm in from the edge. Question is, did I measure the temp earlier today at the edge of the build plate or is it working properly now I've pushed the connectors in? Either way, I'll need to reduce the printable area by a good 15 mm when I print ABS!
     
  16. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    So, I'm busy putting together a suitcase/folding solar panel setup using a pair of house panels for when im camping.

    The carriage is within the 4wd so I was going to print some edge and corner pieces to reduce the knocks and scuffs to the inside of the vehicle as well as to keep the panels from rattling together. Pretty much the same as in the image, but with chamfered corners and maybe a flexible filament.

    20220129_111036.jpg

    I was thinking of using a flexible filament but it needs to be UV resistant. I've looked up the flexible ones but UV resistance seems to be specific to different brands rather than filament type. Would that be an accurate assessment? Anyone want to recommend a filament that might be most suitable.
     
  17. OP
    OP
    Spanos

    Spanos Member

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    Few posts from me today!

    Been printing a modification to the existing hood on my enclosed printer to stop up a hole. It's printed in four parts and I'm printing in ABS.

    The amount of shrinkage must be pretty large. The photo below has a bit of a channel running around the perimeter. Thats the edge between a 5mm wide brim and the edge of the print. The brim is actually still stuck at the outer edge but the print has still lifted up! I'm surprised how well the first layer adhesion I have is going on to have it do that. When I take the magnetic build surface off the print actually bows it which is pretty impressive.

    20220129_213144.jpg
     
  18. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    Defyant Modded "Tail" Lights!
    This is where i'm at atm. Was getting a bit fed up with having to open and close containers every time we did a colour swap and for the wife 90% of the stuff she sells is 2 colour prints.

    Changing out the moisture absorber was becoming a pain in the butt as well.

    Simple racks one for larger and one for smaller reels... What a pain this was.... there are at least 3 different size reels.

    The idea is that i will enclose the whole bottom section add some sliding clear front plex panels and chuck a small "ish" Dehumidifier behind the filament. The other option is just to chuck a large unit and just let in run in the room.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  19. quantum808

    quantum808 New Member

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    Feb 3, 2022
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    Scrolling through the stuff here really makes me want to get a printer even more. Just need the space for it now!
     
    m3k, Defyant and brayway like this.
  20. scips

    scips Member

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    Apr 10, 2004
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    Location:
    Melb
    Taking tips from Defyant but small mode, mono and the smaller washer/curer is on its way

    Getting 1KG of crappy resin and 1KG of some supertough stuff (since I'm going to be printing guide wheels for low speed belts
     
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