Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Spanos, May 26, 2021.
congrats on the baby, maybe build it on some of the many sleepless nights you may have
You should probably take the baby out of the box, the printer can wait
Converted the ender5pro to direct drive, just waiting on a longer stepper motor cable to arrive (might make one out of cat5 until it does).
Ender3max is still awaiting stock
So still very happy with the sheet, just gotta work a bit more on my chamber as having some layer adhesion! Absolutely love the finish you get with it though.
So a couple of days ago I was printing something and heard an occasional squeak from the printer. Sounded like a metal on metal squeak so was a bit concerning. A little annoying as I didn't think I'd already need to do maintenance with only 180 hours print time. Anyway spent a fair bit of time trying to work out where exactly it was coming from but a brief sound for a fraction of a second at random intervals isn't easy to locate. Eventually resigned myself to dismantling and relubing bearings etc but if I was going to do that I may as well install the mk3s to mk3s+ upgrade while I was at it and if I was going to do that I should print and also install a larger einsy case as the standard one has poor cable management which means what little passive airflow there could be is mostly blocked by all the cables stuffed inside.
So loaded up some PETG and started the 20 hour print for the case and parts. Obviously couldn't spend 20 hours at the printer but every time I checked on it the printer was it's usual silent self, no sign of the squeak and the print completed perfectly. Then this morning wanted to print a small part so switched back to the PLA I had been using and while loading the filament it squeaked. It's the damn filament roll on the spool holder that's squeaking as it turns, not the printer at all. Still going to do maintenance and install the upgrades before summer as the printer isn't in an area with AC so want to get the einsy case installed for peace of mind as the weather warms up but at least the urgency is no longer there. Think I'll also find a bearing supported spool holder.
This has been happening. Probably finish it tonight or tomorrow and find i need to half disassemble it before it’ll work… was doing the extruder this morning about 3am. Intricate little bugger that is.
This gave me a laugh, thanks
Wondering if you can help me with some unusual stringing and blob issues. It's been pretty intermittent, so been hard to diagnose. I've tried adjusting temps and retraction - somewhat a bit blindly, with no consistent fixes, but the latest print revealed something interesting. This is actually a single print done at the same time. The print is a cable holder made out of series of hexagons. About 1/3rd of the "hives" have stringing and burnt blobs like this or worse:
About 1/3rd just has the stringing (no burnt blobs, sorry, no photo)
But also, 1/3rd has "almost" no stringing, and definitely no blobs like this:
Before because it was hit and miss, I just figured it must have been something on the day - it was a bit warmer or colder, or it was a bit drier, or more humid, but these were all printed at the same time, with only some of the hives having issues - and they're not random. The worst hives for the stringing and blobbing are all in the same corner. I've checked my plate leveling, and it all seems fine, could be uneven heating of the bed? But then why past the first few layers (This thing is about 180mm tall).
Material is PETG, stored in a humidity controlled print box by the way. Printer is an open framed Anycubic I3 Mega.
Any advice would be helpful.
I'm no expert, but have you tried a retraction test? Stringing can happen depending upon how far the head has to move whilst not extruding. You'll see in the retraction tests that the printed objects are usually set at distances further and further apart. In the first photo there appears to be a number of 'zits' which I think could be overextrusion at the start of the run.
Thats where I would start investigating anyway.
I'm doubting it's a retraction issue, because, otherwise won't all hexagons have the same issue?
But I'll try reprinting the the retraction tower. I have fiddled a little bit with the flow rate since I last did it, because the new humidity control box seems to have a bit of friction when pulling filament through it, and I was getting what was looking like under extrusion in some points.
It'll only be the same if the head is travelling the same distance. If the head is moving a different distance (i assume you have random location of start/stop in your slicer on) then some will work fine, some will only zit and some will zit and string.
And to top it off, filament will invariably behave different too if the amount of moisture is different. i.e. sometimes I get varying levels of moisture in the filament which I can see in the finish of the surface. Your filament might have different moisture in it now compared to when you last did the retraction test?
Fair enough. Definitely time to do another one then. Maybe two or even three towers at 0*, 45* and 90* to test your theory about which way the head moves.
Thanks for the feedback, it's not much effort to give it a go, so I my as well do it. Cheers!
Could also be the part cooling. Are all of the good hexagons on one side of print or something like that? The part itself might be getting in the way of the airflow.
Have you enabled Combing?
Also if you don't have pressure/ linear advance maybe try coasting.
I would also try drying the filament, I have had similar issues with PETG that was too wet.
Righteo.. My 17yo son has been running his own 3d printing businesses the last 18 months to 2 years and currently has 2x Prusa I3 MK3s with Hemera extruders, a Creality CR-10s with a V6 hot end and ezabl (amongst other mods), a phrozen shuffle XL and an Anycubic mono X.
Tomorrow we start the road to a Voron 2.4 350x350mm. Going to be a fun project. He's going into a fair slice of debt with the bank of Dad to do it. <3
gee thats a lot of printers for a teen. who does he print for? other kids from school or sells online?
I have been looking at Vorons / Rat Rigs but damn they are just so expensive and I just can't really see why. Sure they have 6-8 steppers and linear rails and more extrusions but no 6X more than say and Ender3, and they are full DIY so in some ways you are getting less for your money. You can even buy Kits and they are not drastically cheaper so its not like its just individually sourced components that are costing the extra money.
They only really excel at fast printing rather than being next level quality at standard settings. If you really want bulk printing multiple cheap printers would technicality be better (How many Enders can you buy for Voron) . They are more like a project car and that seems to be why most people build them.
Yes, an Ender 3 costs much less than sourcing the parts to build it yourself. This is a fact, but it's not really the fault of the DIY printers... The question is not really "why is a DIY printer so expensive", it's "how is an E3 so cheap"?
Well that's just wrong, the Chinese kits have dropped the price to build a Voron V2.4 by over a third, to the point where it's currently uneconomical to build the "cheaper" V1.8 design because a self-source V1.8 costs more than a China-kit V2.4, and nobody is making V1.8 kits.
Regarding Voron's specifically: If you want a very reliable enclosed printer for ABS and more exotic filaments (PC blends, nylons etc) you'll find a Voron a good match because that's what they're designed for.
If you want to print trinkets in PLA they don't have a huge advantage over other printers and indeed the stock Voron toohead (Afterburner) has pretty bad cooling for PLA.
He does a fair few 3d printed nerf blasters, supplemented by one offs... this last week he's done a couple of nerf Lynx blasters, some one off proof of concept prints for both private and business customers, a handful of DND minis, a few gel blaster hopups and so on.
This is where I'm currently at.. wondering if these chinese kits are any good next to (potentially) higher quality self sourced parts.
As for why we are doing a voron and not buying a bunch of enders.. firstly, because we started with cheap printers and they were a nightmare. Constant upkeep, QC issues (with finished prints), took ages to heat up etc.
Whilst he's been officially in business for just over a year, we started tinkering with printing and the idea of turning it into a business for him to build upon around 3 years ago.
We had the following prior to ending up with the current lineup - Flashforge creator pro, creality cr10, creality cr-10 v2 (two of them), creality cr-10s pro V2 and an Artilery sidewinder. The CR-10S that we've got is one of our earlier printers but it has been upgraded so much that it's barely a CR-10 of any sort, anymore.
Came a point where I decided to go for broke and get a couple of decent printers rather than keep dealing with temperamental cheapies. So we moved to the prusas, then upgraded them, now he gets customers who have their own printers, but come to him because the print quality is beyond what they can manage themselves.
He's just finished a fourth nerf lynx blaster for a customer who owns a flashforge finder of his own.. not a poor printer by any means. He doesn't send out anything thats not, put simply, excellent. He'd rather re-print it, profit a bit less, but build on his reputation.... on that note, he's poured every last cent back into his business since the start...a gift for "his future self".
Secondly, because whilst he currently prints in PLA, PETG, TPU and a number of abrasive filaments, it's time to venture into ASA, PC, nylon and CF blends.
Thirdly, because his dad just kinda wants one too haha.
Sorry for the poorly structured wall of text. heh
I did say drastically, a 3rd is a fair amount but its no where near Ender level of value. You can't even say that you are paying for quality or the engineering / support ect (Like you would with Pursa) as Voron design are not taking a cut and the parts are Aliexpress specials not high quality parts. I would say from a parts perspective a Voron is about 2-3X more stuff than a Ender 3 (so maybe $6-900 of value) yet the kits are still about $1400 shipped (350mm model) and that does not include the printed parts (and printer to make them) , Tools needed for assembly (crimping tools , plugs ect).
I don't think the Voron is intrinsically better at ABS than any other printer inside an enclosure (More so that it is with any other filament) and if you want you can put an Afterburner on most printers with an adapter bracket. Though I will admit that the stock ender hotend has a very leaky airflow path so not the best for ABS stock (but the cooling for PLA with that was not great either lol ).
One of the Voron team has a video discussing pros and cons.