3d printer troubleshooting/tweaking/building

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rockofclay, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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    uLa32 raised a good point in our Cheap 3d Printers thread. We don't have a thread for building, tweaking or troubleshooting. I guess this should be the place for it!

    Post your benchies below!
     
    pinchies and uLa32 like this.
  2. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    I guess this could also for talk about extra additions for 3d printing as per building Enclosures, Holders etc etc?

    I am getting a Ender 3 Pro and wondering about a enclosure with printing ABS.
    I could go the official which is lightweight etc or build a lack fior about the same price I imagine.
    With ABS I know it has fumes so wondering about if I need a kinda ventilation system also as I am probably going to have the printer in the lounge under the bench or something and not exactly neer a window.
    So for those that print tell me about enclosures etc?

    I'm tossing up between the creality enclosure which is more portable or a lack with mods.
     
  3. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    It depends on your use case.

    Few options i have looked into
    1.Prusa Lack- I have looked into the Prusa Lack and its a really tight fit front to back but its cheapish, looks good and pretty easy. I doubt its overly good from an insulation perceptive as its full of holes.
    2. Creatily - From the reviews I have seen the Creatily one does not have great insulation but its compact to store and crazy easy as no DIY required.
    3. Photo Tent - About the same as the Creatily but maybe cheaper and even worse for insulation.
    4. Custom enclosure - Can be whatever you want (Easier access, more insulation, Air filtering ect) but maximum effort and maybe cost.

    Its a bit tricky with Air Filtering and ABS. Since you want to trap the heat inside and having a fan pull Air out of the enclosure is somewhat counter to that unless you have a powerful active heater as well. Also need to get a chemical filter (Hepa filter + Activated carbon + High pressure blower) of some sort which I doubt is a cheap and/or easy solution.
     
  4. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Yea some say they just leave it closed and let it dissapate natuarlly with ABS which may be what I might do.
    And with a lack one can seal the corners etc for a small cost so not a issue.
    Was just wondering best way to do ABS.
    Also you could probably mod in a vent you open after printing before opening etc.
    The lack with some work is kinda a 1 & 4 together the way I see it.
    May just do that then and come out at the same cost as the creality tent but better designed.
     
  5. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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  6. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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  7. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    You got me thinking about the Filter. Found some Carbon Filter sponge on Aliexpress and some partial filter Fabric. Will see if I can get a Extractor working with a server Fan . I would only run that with ABS (not at all with no stinky plastic) once the print has finished to suck the chemicals out of a completely sealed enclosure. Best of both worlds.

    I have been planning to build a totally DIY Lack Style enclosure but slightly larger and if possible double glazing for better insulation so may integrate a filter into it. I have some people go all out and put building insulation all around but that is a bit OTT for me.
     
  8. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    thanks rockofclay.

    i've had my ender3 pro + glass bed for a couple of months now and have been printing stuff that i need, but most of the time i've been tweaking and getting the kinks out. i've been hitting up youtube vids and have gone through all the tests such as the heat tower, micro 3d print test, xyz cube and the 3d benchy, but i can't seem to get rid of zits and blobs when using cura on small prints. i've gotten rid of it using simplify3d however.

    on big prints however (vases/pots/etc), i get zits and blobs using s3d but not in cura. is there a common setting in cura/s3d that im still missing?

    at the end of the day id like to use s3d, as i can't seem to get anymore speed out of cura. ie: anything i print in cura is basically double the time... or is there more settings im missing?

    DSC04347.JPG DSC04353.JPG DSC04356.JPG
     
  9. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    A
    Haha all good I'm pretty logical when it comes to things like that.
    I jumped in and went down this rabbit hole researching and thinking etc.

    I'll go down the lack path also have some ideas and you got me thinking about insulation material also haha.
     
  10. OP
    OP
    rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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    I'm transitioning from Cura to Slic3r, I really think that Slic3r is the way to go. I wouldn't bother with Simplify3d as the other two tend to keep updated and support some of the more advanced tricks, as well as being open source (if that's your bag).

    With the zits, check that your z seam settings. Otherwise it might be something that can be tuned out with retraction settings or linear advance. Although linear advance is more effective on direct drive systems, I've not tried to tune it in on my Ender 3 or CR10 clone.

    An interesting thing about Cura is that your profile might not have the speed limits hard encoded on your printers board. That way it may under estimate the print time. Conversely, you may have these limits set too low, so that may be why you can't get any more speed out. How many mm/s are you using for your print speed?

    It can be worthwhile upgrading the firmware on the Ender 3, it was pretty crap when I bought mine. I upgraded to vanilla marlin using Teaching Tech's guide, and it gives you a lot more control, as well as thermal runaway protection. I wouldn't be surprised if thermal runaway comes out of the box these days, but it's probably worth checking that it's there (as in physically disconnecting the thermistor while printing). One of many changes I made to my firmware was the minimum bed threshold for thermal runaway. I found that in winter I couldn't heat the bed as it thought Melbourne was too cold!

    I've bought myself a FYSETC Cheetah with the 2209 TMC stepper drivers and 32 bit chip to try out, so we'll see how that goes when I get around to it. I bought it as soon as it became availiable, before all the reviews hit with problems surfaced! To be honest I haven't touched the Ender in a while because the CR10 clone has been doing most of my printing.
     
  11. m3k

    m3k Member

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    s3d is just better pathing than cura- no amount of settings at the time of this post will make cura more efficient than s3d- Its simply coded better no pun intended
    there are more subtleties to s3d i could talk about, how it behaves but at the moment its my fav slicer, even though it is much less feature packed to prusa slicer or cura.

    im not going to call myself a s3d fanboy though- if u can wait a little bit longer, i suggest you save the money and support open source slicers- hopefully they catch up soon, ive been enjoying what craft ware and idea maker have been doing too-
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2020
  12. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    Am I the only one here that uses PrusaSlicer ?
    Obviously I started with Cura as that came with my machine but after using Ps I rarely bother with Cura anymore.
    I think the only setting I've altered is to change G.Code to Repetier

    I did have some bed adhesion issues but got recommended this stuff
    Some pix
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2020
  13. OP
    OP
    rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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    No, I was talking about it a few posts up, it's also known as Slic3r. It's my go to now. What do you mean change Gcode to Repetier? I thought Repetier was a firmware?

    As far as the adhesive goes, I've been using Cedel extra hold. Can pick it up from the supermarket. One downside is that it is heavily perfumed, so my yabbies stay away from the homes I print for a while!

    Nice prints BTW!

    Got any specifics? I have found Slic3r to be the best out of the three for pathing. Is there a specific use case?
     
  14. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i'm currently using simplify3d v4, but im open to other software if it improves my prints. i guess i just got used to using it. but im not fussed about changing. i think there is some funny buggers going on coz when i print via cura, it would estimate the print time correctly at 23hr20min (printing a pot plant now). s3d would estimate it at 12hr43min. s3d would underestimate consistently. i've currently got it tuned to 140mm/s print speed at @ 210 degrees with pla(+), with additional tuning using the volumetric extrusion calc excel with heat towers, etc (via teachingtech). i *think* its the fastest i can go with a bit of headroom left over.

    within the first week, i think i watched the bulk of teachingtechs stuff, upgraded the stock board to marlin, and printed a few parts to neaten up the printer. i also bought a skr turbo v1.4, tft35, tmc2209's and a bltouch. i've had them for about a week sitting here, so i gotta find some time to get it all in. i tried to take the easy way out and get the th3d but i couldnt get a hold of it.

    i've started mucking around now with z seam stuffs... looks like its something to do with wipe nozzle and wipe distance during retraction and non-retraction. lets see how it goes.

    with regards to prints, i see a lot of nice looking prints with no blemishes/lines/etc. do you do any further post-processing work like sanding/additional coats/etc?
     
  15. GumbyNoTalent

    GumbyNoTalent Member

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  16. m3k

    m3k Member

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    how did u find slic3r to have better pathing than s3d- are u using the latest version of both?, Its rediuclously faster print times with way less weird island order when printing
     
  17. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    What Marlin firmware do you guys run on your Ender 3's?
    I'm getting the Ender 3 Pro so want to make sure I put on firmware with the thermal protection.
    I am getting a SKR Mini E3 2.0 but won't be here for a bit as 'China' so I expect 2 months.
    But want safer firmware I can put on put of the box untill then.
     
  18. nibennett

    nibennett Member

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    I use Prusa Slic3r as well. (Running the 2.3.0 alpha at the moment for the monotonous infill and ironing.)
    I'd say its pathing is fairly average. I've seen better but also seen worse.
    The pathing in Slic3r has definitely got better over the last 2.5 years I've had my prusa though but can still improve further. Prusa are developing it fairly quickly and adding new features.

    I'd pick Prusa Slic3r over cura anyday at this point. Before I got my prusa I was using Cura for the cacoon create mini's I was using at one of the schools I worked at.

    On the PEI bed for my prusa haven't needed any adhesive for PLA or ABS, and I use windex to wipe the bed before a PETG print to help it seperate after the print.
     
  19. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Michael over at Teaching Tech has just released a vido on tuning a 3D printer.

    Test gcode is generated from his website based on parameters you provide.
     
  20. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i’ve got the latest version 2.0.6 on mine. fairly straightforward to do. you’lll need an arduino to do it. my deliveries almost took 2 months!
     

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