3d printer troubleshooting/tweaking/building

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rockofclay, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. m3k

    m3k Member

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    honestly they might just enjoy marlin 0.0.6 - most marlins have alot of weird perks - its sometimes hard to find a version you might like- especially with different ABL algos - movement perks- stepper controller perks- babystepping bugs- somany weird things-

    duet reprap firmware is more reliable throughout the builds BUT no experimental features- not much customizing but most importantly no backlash compensation or junction deviation or non-linear acceleration

    however their linear advance algo is better. its less speed dependent- u dont have to tune it as frequently between materials

    repetier firmware isnt bad- i enjoy it with delta printers- but yeah if u were to ask me if i could only live with one firmware right now it would be marlin- theres just somany features i cant giveup
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2020
  2. m3k

    m3k Member

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    i have a couple machienes that have yet to fail- one is my modded duplicator 6 the other is my modded zortrax- just workhorses i guess because they're built like tanks and its not open so i cant get my greasy fingerrs on the bed :p and im careful with my magnetic build plates- im pedantic enough to wash it with ipa between each print
     
  3. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    ok done a few runs on slic3r and was great out of the box. barely any settings to fiddle with. got a couple of zits on the benchy. speed is comparable to s3d after changing acceleration control and volumetric speed. need to run a bigger job thru slicer to see if those zits are still a problem.

    2B02206C-0F8C-4C89-B665-1CEE5B499204.jpeg 194F59F5-872A-4380-9CFB-DC458565AE97.jpeg
     
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  4. nibennett

    nibennett Member

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    I do the same with my prusa's magnetic build plates for every print. (Clean down with IPA, but also a wipe down with acetone on the smooth ones about once a month, all the textured one gets is the ipa wipedowns as acetone can be harmful to them.)
    Single colour my prusa is a workhorse with it very rare for there to be an issue as well. 99% reliable I'd say at this point.
    Multicolour prints with the MMU2 I'ts probably about 95% reliable these days.
     
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  5. Eisenhorn

    Eisenhorn Member

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    I also just got a ender 3 pro but its extruding at 40% so I tell it to extrude 100mm and it extruded approximately 40mm If I wanted to adjust its steps I would need to turn the knob like 300 times to get enough.

    Anyone else had this issue and fixed it?

    I tried switching the cables with the x axis. It was better being powered by the x axis.
    Its driving me nuts.
     
  6. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Anyone try Repetier-Host, saw that listed in the specs of the printer it appears a all in one.
    It has slicers and firmware as well as a Pi install with webcam support.
    Wonder how that stacks up to OctoPrint.
    Also there is Matter Control a all in one.
    Going to try them out on my PC and see sometime.

    Tried Slic3r see there's a few versions listed here, but using Cura as it seemed easy, as initial impressions seemed Slic3r was too fast printing etc, will need a good setting tutorial.
    So are what are good Slic3r settings for the Ender 3?

    With all this software wondering what you all are using and thoughts on it all.

    Should we also have a software etc thread for slicers, servers, firmware etc?
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2020
  7. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    I used repetier host with my first printer as it was the one they had documented with. I have found it great for doing eeprom changes and testing using the terminal. Slicing is pretty basic but allows you to install and choose other slicers if you want.

    Once a printer has been set up I just use Cura to slice and transfer the file to the printer.
     
  8. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i'm pretty happy with slicer now and i'll stop using cura. i still like s3d, so i'll keep it on for a while to use for comparison as i've been using it the longest. the only thing i don't like with slicer is that when i send to octoprint, i get a failed upload and have to do it 2/3 times.

    i've done a few larger prints now in slicer but cant seem to get zits eliminated 100%. there's always one. is it just how it is?

    my octoprint doesnt recognise layer tags from jobs in slicer, so thats another thing i need to have a look at also.

    also, i've got a pronounced line (circled) at around layer 90. it happens about 70% of the time in s3d and cura as well at around the same place (+/-10 layers). looks like a hardware problem. z screw binding? extruder motor problem? anyone else had this problem? suggestions to fix?

    what of the overall print quality? is this the best it can be? can it be betterer?

    C6769AA8-456C-45A0-91CE-06DEAF4C4E33.jpeg FEB46B3E-C728-4973-8A3B-14EC420D561A.jpeg
     
  9. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    I grabbed the temp tower gcode and doesn't seem to be working on my ender 3.
    OctoPrint doesn't seem to do a temp change despite it trying in the target.
    Could be a firmware thing I don't know.

    temp tower.PNG
     
  10. CacTuar

    CacTuar Member

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    Anyone got a tip as to what I could do to reduce the initial layer lifting off the bed on my Tevo Tarantula Prusa i3 when using ABS? I've had it for years (it's motherboard is MKS Base 1.2) but over the past couple of days I've fine tuned it enough to get really good PLA prints and I've insulated the bed so that it can get up to 110 degrees. If I really slow down the initial layer it mainly sticks, but doing little detailed internal parts it still lifts a corner and ruins the whole thing.
    I use masking tape on the bed and I've tried glue stick on it. My next thing to try is hairspray, I just have to get down the street to buy some.
     
  11. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    I was having the same trouble...
    I was recommended 3dLac and it's solved the problem at the moment...
    It's still printing (2 days now) but it aint shifted. (PETG)
     
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  12. CacTuar

    CacTuar Member

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    Thanks I will order some now.
    I notice my PLA prints get up about 10mm high then I get a layer where it doesn't fit perfectly. Once the print is done it's just that one slice that looks off.
     
  13. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    I'll be building a Lack starting today for my 3D printer and will be doing ABS, wondering what filtering I'm going to need for it.

    I have been reading I need HEPA and Activated Carbon, but soo many people on various forums are just debating or calling each others ideas out as not worth the risk.
    Can someone advise with a cost effective solution here?

    May not be the best place but it'll be next to the stove in the kitchen and sealed with edges siliconed a pipe going up to the ceiling exhaust which I'll have on a open close slider.

    Where the slider is I'll have a fan and the filter so wondering what to use for filtering.

    Found that my exhaust fan above the printer is connected with a power plug up there so I can put in a smart plug to turn it on as needed will need to look into that.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2020
  14. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Have you tried a big fat skirt? I normally use a 10-15mm one and that helps a fair amount but without a heat enclosure you are somewhat limit to the size of prints you can do.
     
  15. m3k

    m3k Member

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    styrene isnt good stuff to be in the air- HIPS and ABS will let off fumes with bad VOCS, according tot he studies- PETG and PLA seems to be more "sticky" and tends to offgass less vocs but not only less vocs but less dangerous vocs too, now even cooking will release VOCS so generally speaking filtering air is always a good idea,

    but Pla and PETG numbers for vocs were remakably low IMHO, PLA had lactic acids in the air which is known to be metabolisable by people- however we dont know if the dyes are offgassing too- so better have some sort of ventilation anyway- I mean- you should see the VOC numbers laser office printers let out- They make 3d printers look healthy- So yeah


    also....obviously the hotter you print the more vocs you will offgas- so try to stick to lower temps unless ur making super structural stuff anyway

    anyway - activated charcoal- and alot of it- and a static pressure filtering ur air is a good idea- But the carbon has a shelf life etc , ive found even a microfiber cloth infront of a 120mm fan enough to cut the smell down- its probably not safe to assume that if the smell is gone.. so are the vocs ...But........ if i were a betting man- id probably assume any kind of air filtration is better than none :p, venting to fresh air is good also important- but yeah, static pressure- so push pull though a filter is probably best.

    id also bet if you were pushing the air through slightly damp or oiled towel it would capture heaps more vocs too. but thats just a theory :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2020
  16. Dilbery

    Dilbery Member

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  17. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I use a Pi Zero W with the PI camera module fitted. Runs as an IP camera and works well with Octoprint.
     

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  18. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    cant say 100% but watched a few videos that seem to show HIPS off gassing alot less than ABS.
     
  19. m3k

    m3k Member

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    good to know- But yeah back to my point the amount of VOCS dont matter asmuch as the TYPE of vocs too- like im no doctor but id rather somthing that the body can matabolise be floating vs somthing that is known to be dangerous to humans like styrene
     
  20. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    I am making a Ikea lack enclosure tried ABS in a temp enclosure but couldn't get ABS going for me.
    So I am doing it in PLA to start, eventually I want to redo pieces in a material with high temp tollerasnce once I am up and running with the enclodure and can print higher temps.
    I will be insulating the enclosure with car type foil insulator sheets.

    I'm wondering what material I should use for the eventually replacements to be able to print a wide range of materials PETG, ABS/+, ASA, Hips, Carbon, PC etc etc.
    Eventually I want to try out different materials and print in them based on ideas etc.
     

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