3d printer troubleshooting/tweaking/building

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rockofclay, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. mtma

    mtma Member

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    Different batches of plastic being slightly different is to be expected, but if it's from the same batch and it hasn't been exposed to heat or lots of UV between uses, then it may be the result of entrapped moisture in the filament. A small amount of moisture may not notably affect your ability to print, but it causes a degree of foaming that affects the final results. Visual differences are most noticeable on filaments that are translucent.
     
  2. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Yea, thinking the included sample filaments are a slightly different batch composition makeup to there spools.
     
  3. nibennett

    nibennett Member

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    PEI works great. Thats what Prusa ship on their spring steel sheets. (Some smooth sticker versions and textured powder coated versions.)
    I've been printing on PEI for 2.5 years at this point.
    PLA adheres well, I haven't done any big ABS prints but it adhered fine.
    PETG you actually use something like windex as a release agent so it comes off more easily after the print. (And doesn't rip the PEI sticker)

    To care for it basically I wipe it with IPA after every print.
    Wipe it down (The smooth sticker version) with Acetone about once a month - 6 weeks depending on how much I'm printing.
    Then every now and again might just lightly scuff it with a scouring sponge. (Only done 3 times in the 2.5 years)
     
  4. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    Would be a configuration.h setting to reverse the motor direction. And most likely the end stop settings.

    There is a gcode command to look at the state of endstops. I used it a bit to check my optical upgrade ones and to ensure the polarity was set correctly.
     
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  5. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    The firmware I loaded was as supplied by BTT for the Ender-5 so I had expected it to work 'as-is'. This is a basic version with no support for sensorless homing or bltouch. I though it better to get the printer in basic working condition before I started adding those options.
    I've downloaded the latest Marlin which comes with the configuration files for the Mini E3 V2.0 so I can know just what is compiled into the firmware. It will give me a chance to upgrade to a proper IDE (VScode?) - I've just been using Ardunio until now.
     
  6. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    I've found increasing the first layer flow rate substantially* helps with adhesion.


    *like 150%-200% substantial really get some good squish down on the build surface. after the first layer 100% flow is perfect.
     
  7. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    Could be due to a driver change as well. I do know when I upgraded from the stock anycubic drivers to 2209 the motor direction had to be changed. It can be done through pin changes on the connectors which a lot of people do, but learning how to make these changes in the firmware will help with any other tweaks that people might need to do in the future.

    Someone else may have released a compiled version that covers your drivers and BLtouch. I know someone did for my I3 mega S which is the one I used.
     
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  8. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Didn't think about the driver change having an effect (and to be honest, thought the BTT provided firmware for the Ender-5 would take that into account). I'll try downloading and updating the firmware before I dive into source code changes.
     
  9. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    All fixed! Homing and direction OK
    I just used the standard config as provided for the BTT Mini E3 V2.0 and compiled with the Marlin plugin in VScode.

    I'll print a test or two and then pull it apart agin to install the filament run-out detector and bltouch (actually a knock-off bdtouch)
    Sure is quiet though.
     
  10. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

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    I've just got my Ender 3 V2 and am slowly working my way through all the issues. Some things just don't want to stick to the bed, other things have printed perfectly straight up. As best as I can tell the bed is levelled and everything should be working.

    The test print of the cat came out pretty well, zero false starts:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2238443

    A fidget thing printed it's frame perfectly, but I can't get the gear set out, it just doesn't adhere to the bed. But I have learnt things and will try again with a brim, then a raft if that fails. (although I didn't know any of those terms at this point)

    Click to view full size!



    While I have up on that one I moved onto this Squishy Turtle which I thought would be much easier since it had larger parts and more surface area to stick to the bed. The first few attempts failed out of the gate and after much re-levelling I finally got the first layer down cleanly. The first hour went well so I left it to run only to come back to this:

    Click to view full size!


    My best guess is that the head piece came away from the bed and moved everything else. I was able to salvage the base piece and the H clips so set about re-printing the head, then shell separately. I put the head on a raft and it worked perfectly, although I still need to understand the difference and purpose between raft and brim. The shell is currently running, again a few false starts, couldn't get that first layer down at all for some reason, but adding a brim and starting again seems to have done the trick...

    Click to view full size!



    Before I started re-printing the shell I had printed a filament holder to get the filament away from the greasy z-axis post thingy, although it's caused a squeak as it feeds now I think the next job will be to relocate the filament spool to the side which hopefully moves the path enough to solve that problem. I did print a different holder, but it doesn't seem to do much for the V2, maybe it was for the Ender 3. Both of these, with zero modification, zero brim/raft etc and they just worked.

    I'm still trying to understand material temps, material speed (currently tweaked to 125% on the machine itself, but Ultimaker Cura seems to show a speed have 50mm/s... no clue if that's good/bad or otherwise.

    I might have to look into something like that if it's likely to help my prints getting started.

    I am already sick of playing the SD card swap game so have just setup my Pi Zero W, although without hooking up the camera module since I was reading about how underpowered and not recommended they are.

    I figured I could grab a cheap Pi3b, but the Pi4 2GB was only $5 more so I got another one of those (that makes five Pi's in the house now). I'll swap that one in and install the camera when it arrives (I'm looking forward to printing my own casing too :D ). In the meantime, I'll see how the Pi Zero goes.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2020
  11. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I run the Pi Zero for the camera only. Octoprint runs on a 3B+
     
  12. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    looks like my extruder gear is starting to give up. slipping all over the place and generally outputting crappy prints.

    i’ve got a new dual gear metal one coming thats already 2 weeks in transit, but knowing my luck, it’ll be another month before it gets here.

    anyone have any tips or tricks to compensate for this?
     
  13. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    go to sleep for a month, then it'll be 'tomorrow'.

    oh you mean the slipping...

    can you increase the spring tension?
    another idea is reduce print speeds - put less load on the extruder.

    If those don't work I don't think it'd be something you can adjust in your slicer, unless it was a very consistent and predictable slip, than you could maybe increase flow rate.
     
  14. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    Yeah I had to change my extruder as well. I ordered the "wrong way round one" and had to re-order again !
    Kept the other for spares
    Miraculously esteps were identical.
    You can just about see what I changed to (DotBit dual extruder)in this latest print.
     
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  15. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i’ve wound up the spring tension a little more. i think ive got about 4 full turns until its maxxed out.
    speeds: i knocked it back from 120 to 80. it slipped less, but still there. you can hear the snap, crackle and pop coming from the nozzle.

    looks like i’ll continually need to wind the speed back until its quicker for me to make a part out of balsa wood! maybe just pack it up like you said and go to sleep for a month! shame as well, as i got it completely dialled for both pla+ and petg. i bought a roll of abs+ to muck around with, but not gonna happen now that’s for sure!

    another one that im thinking is change the nozzle to a 0.3? but all that calibration again...

    [edit]
    so... i was gonna throw in the towel and leave it until parts arrived, but thought ii'd give the extruder a once over. i noticed that the drive gear was worn on the bottom, so i moved it down so that the filament would now contact the fresh looking teeth on the top. redid spring tension... great success. redid esteps and now we're back on the wagon.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2020
  16. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Rafts compensate for a unlevel bed or poor first layer while also adding adhesion (bigger surface area) while brims just add surface area so are all about adhesion only.

    Rafts use more filament, take a while and leave a poor bottom surface so I avoid them. Brims are easy to remove with a deburing tool like this (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000203551228.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dZ5L9ch )
     
  17. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

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    So many little bits and pieces I want to buy as accessories!

    For now I'm waiting on another Raspberry Pi for Octopi... which leaves me looking at what cases I can print and if they can attach to a Ender 3V2 or if I just have it sit next to it... I've got the Pi Camera, but I don't know if the cable is long enough for some of the camera mounts I've been looking at and I don' have the skills to make my own just yet.
     
  18. fatall

    fatall Member

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    Hi, I am having some issues with printing, see image:
    [​IMG]

    I've had a look and I have change the z hop setting(this is still the results) Can anyone suggest what the problem is? This is using PLA on Ender 3 v2 and using Cura 7.4.1
     
  19. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    That is either a first layer with too much squish or over extrusion.
     
  20. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Been chatting to Butcher9_9 but I'll post here also.

    I got this PETG but don't know the settings to use.
    butcher told me 220 hot end 80 bed which is what I used for the failed attempt below.
    I leveled the bed with the 9 squares and PLA to get the leveling down.
    I ended up with this.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Can anyone help with what I am meant to be doing and what settings to use?
    Pla works a treat.

    I know Butcher is local but if anyone else is local in Perth and knows this stuff, soonish could the help as I have upgrades to do 3DTouch etc and can use the help to get the right settings etc for materials.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2020

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