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3d printer troubleshooting/tweaking/building

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rockofclay, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. mtma

    mtma Member

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    Different batches of plastic being slightly different is to be expected, but if it's from the same batch and it hasn't been exposed to heat or lots of UV between uses, then it may be the result of entrapped moisture in the filament. A small amount of moisture may not notably affect your ability to print, but it causes a degree of foaming that affects the final results. Visual differences are most noticeable on filaments that are translucent.
     
  2. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Yea, thinking the included sample filaments are a slightly different batch composition makeup to there spools.
     
  3. nibennett

    nibennett Member

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    PEI works great. Thats what Prusa ship on their spring steel sheets. (Some smooth sticker versions and textured powder coated versions.)
    I've been printing on PEI for 2.5 years at this point.
    PLA adheres well, I haven't done any big ABS prints but it adhered fine.
    PETG you actually use something like windex as a release agent so it comes off more easily after the print. (And doesn't rip the PEI sticker)

    To care for it basically I wipe it with IPA after every print.
    Wipe it down (The smooth sticker version) with Acetone about once a month - 6 weeks depending on how much I'm printing.
    Then every now and again might just lightly scuff it with a scouring sponge. (Only done 3 times in the 2.5 years)
     
  4. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    Would be a configuration.h setting to reverse the motor direction. And most likely the end stop settings.

    There is a gcode command to look at the state of endstops. I used it a bit to check my optical upgrade ones and to ensure the polarity was set correctly.
     
    tumutbound likes this.
  5. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    The firmware I loaded was as supplied by BTT for the Ender-5 so I had expected it to work 'as-is'. This is a basic version with no support for sensorless homing or bltouch. I though it better to get the printer in basic working condition before I started adding those options.
    I've downloaded the latest Marlin which comes with the configuration files for the Mini E3 V2.0 so I can know just what is compiled into the firmware. It will give me a chance to upgrade to a proper IDE (VScode?) - I've just been using Ardunio until now.
     
  6. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    I've found increasing the first layer flow rate substantially* helps with adhesion.


    *like 150%-200% substantial really get some good squish down on the build surface. after the first layer 100% flow is perfect.
     
  7. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    Could be due to a driver change as well. I do know when I upgraded from the stock anycubic drivers to 2209 the motor direction had to be changed. It can be done through pin changes on the connectors which a lot of people do, but learning how to make these changes in the firmware will help with any other tweaks that people might need to do in the future.

    Someone else may have released a compiled version that covers your drivers and BLtouch. I know someone did for my I3 mega S which is the one I used.
     
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  8. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Didn't think about the driver change having an effect (and to be honest, thought the BTT provided firmware for the Ender-5 would take that into account). I'll try downloading and updating the firmware before I dive into source code changes.
     
  9. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Location:
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    All fixed! Homing and direction OK
    I just used the standard config as provided for the BTT Mini E3 V2.0 and compiled with the Marlin plugin in VScode.

    I'll print a test or two and then pull it apart agin to install the filament run-out detector and bltouch (actually a knock-off bdtouch)
    Sure is quiet though.
     

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