3d printer troubleshooting/tweaking/building

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rockofclay, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    Looks like that's a CR10 pro?

    I use PETG all the time, 240C 80C, 150-200% flow for the first layer (helps with adhesion). add a brim if you still have problems.
    PETG is a little more difficult to get started (bed adhesion). once you get the settings right it's great.
     
  2. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    PETG can be a real arsehhole to get right.

    That looks like it hasn't stuck to the bed ?
    Someone recommended a bed temp of 90c to me which I thought was ridiculously high and a Hot end of 245c
     
  3. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Ender3 Pro and yea initial layer sticking issues.
    Does anyone have a Cura profile they use they can pass along so I can compare?
     
  4. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    Assuming you've got bed levelling correct. Get it as close as you can manually, any ABL helps, but can't work miracles.

    The initial layer flow was the biggest help I've found.
    [​IMG]

    this one shows I'm using a brim, but that's for a tiny part, just not enough bed contact for it to stick otherwise. most of the time, I can get away with nothing extra.
     
  5. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Thank you very much I will add the flow in and compare will be a big help as I noticed first later compared to pla seems like its not pushing as much material out so that's why the flow I understand and will adjust.
     
  6. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Also what do you guys go about the print lifting from the bed even at 80'c?
    I have the Creality glass bed.
     
  7. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    I can send you mine but you'd still need to tweak it for your printer (unless you have a Chiron)
    It's based on an edited Ender 3 profile anyway

    Add me

    and I'll PM you the zipped profile
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2020
  8. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    I don't have facebook unfortunately.
    I tried printing a mini keychain spool didn't come out well.
    The base started ok then it just went like that on the bed the position of the base didn't move as you can see.
    And below are the cura settings, I'm giving up for the night.
    I'll adjust the flow tomorrow for initial layer.
    Advice is useful.


    IMG_20200925_211722.jpg
    PETG cura settings.PNG
     
  9. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    ender 3 pro here: first layer 240 extruder, 85 bed. other layers 235, 80 bed.

    using glass bed with gluestick. bed is closer by 0.03 compared to my pla profile. using slic3r.

    i've attached my profile if you want to have a peek at my settings.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 26, 2020
  10. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    How did you attach that file ?
    I can't see an option to do so
    Doh...Found it..
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Tying another bunch of settings based on your ones above.
    Here is my PETG Cura profile for the Ender 3 Pro if anyone wants to check themselves and to help tweak it.

    Update: Mini spool reel came out ok so now doing a easy quick piece of the enclosure from my worklog.
     

    Attached Files:

    • PETG.zip
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    Last edited: Sep 26, 2020
  12. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Getting some PETG adhesion issues still, will have to reprint one part.
    I'm getting blue painters tape I ordered just now but will be bit.
    Ideas on keeping PETG down while printing?
    I have glustick I can try again you can see.

    IMG_20200926_112419-01.jpeg
     
  13. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i went with more temp when i had lifting. maybe bump the bed temp another +5.

    another thing i noticed for me was that i had to clean the bed and reapply gluestick after every petg and abs print.
     
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  14. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Didn't have glustick all over so I'll do a clean and reapply.
    I just added layer code for a full temp tower 240-170 as I want to actually see the full range of this PETG considering the lable says 190-210.
    Good to see where I get the least stringing.
    As getting a bit of stringing on this print.
    That's my next print then I'll redo that leg part.
    Will keep you guys updated.
     
  15. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    I'd suggest 170 is far too cold for PETG, and you'll have jams/feeding issues.
     
  16. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    170 is quite low i think for a petg temp tower. you may just end up getting chewed filament or a blockage. i reckon 225-255.
     
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  17. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    I did a Temp tower and to all of your surprise The higher temps gave stringing and a little softness deformation as well as lower ones.

    The best results were 210'c and 215'c with 210'c coming out slightly better.
    I had stringing with 220'c onwards.
    You guys can help confirm with the images below.

    Beter Macro Image.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2020
  18. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    petg right? seems a litte low. but then again, temps could be out. maybe you need a pid re-tune?

    if you're still getting lifting, the only thing i can suggest is upping bed temp, but no more than 90. another would be to slightly increase the extrusion multiplier to 1.1 or nozzle closer to bed to promote more squish, so there's a wider contact patch.

    if none of them work, maybe you're stuck with having a raft. wide enough so that if it does lift, it doesnt affect the bit you're printing.
     
  19. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Yea it's PETG, no smell when printing.
    Getting some warping / lifting still printing two leg supports, I'm getting blue painters tape so will hold off until then to print the other parts.

    Printing is going great at 210'c despite the base being lifted warped slightly.
     
  20. Cererus

    Cererus Member

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    Weird loops on screw thread.

    Disclaimer I'm new to 3D printing but have a tool making back ground and program and run CNC machining centres

    I'm printing in PLA on a Lulzbot TAZ6 using the Lulzbot build of cura for slicing, I've printed other stuff on this printer with no problem.

    Looking for a setting that will get rid of these loops of filament that seem to occur in the root of the thread, even stranger is that this only happens to one side (?hemisphere) of the print the other side is pretty good.
    There's a coresponding "nut" for this thing i.e. with a matching internal thread that prints well without the loops

    I'd prefer not to use support as it makes even more work cleaning that up as opposed to the mess it's already making.

    any ideas why this is happening?



    good side.jpg bad side.jpg
     

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