3d printer troubleshooting/tweaking/building

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rockofclay, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Not having much luck.

    Tried printing a couple of the legs first attempt I accidently cut power to the bottoms were slightly warped.
    Second attempt the bottom of one warped a lot and the other one a layer wasn't stuck properly and warping and then broke in half when I took it off the bed.

    At this rate I'm chewing through filament.
    You can see the piece that broke at the front and one on the right warped bottom and a seam at that later the other (at back) broke at.
    The two on the left is where I accidently cut the power.

    I don't know what to do now I feel like just giving up completely as I have ordered new PETG filament as I probably used a bit much to finish this in the current roll.

    if there is anyone in Perth message me if you want to help out.

    petg.jpg
     
  2. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

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    That is what printing without supports gets you with horizontal overhangs that don't bridge. Why it only does it on one side I am unsure. Might be time consuming but maybe check the extruder path and see if there is a difference in there.

    The tool path would have to work from the centre for it to work at all. You may just have to fiddle with minimal supports just to get it to bridge for you.
     
  3. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    are you printing all in one go? you may need to print them one at a time, with the aim being to reduce the time the model just sits there doing nothing until the hotend comes back to put down another layer. i assume that the bed also heats unevenly, so having 1 model in the centre being worked on would be the best.

    i tried to be efficient once, and printed 6 different items in one shot. turned out crap.
     
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  4. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    I'm printing Z axis supports for my Chiron and have discovered that exact issue.
    I am now printing single parts
    PETG (Prusa's own filament - Expensive)
    210 hot end
    90c bed

    Failed attempt - Entire job
    [​IMG]
    Current.. Doesn't look pretty atm but it's sticking to the bed without warping
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Glad to see I want the only one with stuff.
    First attempt of the left two legs was going well till I accidently cut the power to the printer.
    The right two legs I stopped because of issues.
    I'll be trying once I get done blue painters tape.

    Outcast_Aussie let me know what settings you end up using.

    Yea I'll do one at a time though it'll take 8 days or so doing that as there is 8 leg supports.

    I'm in no rush to get it done.
     
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  6. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    other stuff that i hope helps:

    i use the officeworks brand gluestick. goes on a bit chunky so you'll need to rub it in to smoothen it out.

    maybe go with a bigger nozzle. 0.3 and 0.4 nozzles i have a little bit of trouble with, but my 0.5 almost guarantees my first layer sticking to the bed. still pretty good detail too, even with the 0.5.
     
  7. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    Yeah.. I used Prusa Slicer as I'm using their own PETG
    This is what I'm supposed to be printing
    [​IMG]

    And.. What.. 6 hours later ?
    [​IMG]

    A lot of that on the side are supports
     
  8. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Support on threads is not normally possible or at a minimum a total pain.

    If the overhangs are only working on one side I would take a guess that its the side with the best cooling. Maybe add a better Fan duct.

    Worst case assuming you are printing both the male and female parts and not matching an existing thread. I would say try picking a thread with more of a taper. I know fusion has a tonne to choose from.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2020
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  9. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    Completed part.
    Needs a bit extra of cleaning where the supports were but...
    Successful print

    [​IMG]
     
  10. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

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    There is so much to learn and understand!


    My first print out of the box was pretty flawless, then I had issues getting the turtle out (above), then I re-re-re-re-re-levelled the bed. Now I’m getting slight lifting issues, but only sometimes. Learning when you need a brim or raft is still a skill I’m learning.


    I’ve done an under bench mount for my Google Home Hub in the kitchen and a bunch of little adaptors for the Ender 3 v2, although the last bunch of prints were to create a filament box. I was pretty chuffed with myself after printing out the brackets and one of the filament passages when I managed to scale up the brackets (simple 125% print) but also to use Tinkercad to modify the filament passages down to 10mm to match my largest drill bit.



    Click to view full size!



    Click to view full size!



    Click to view full size!



    I’m loving the print in place articulated creatures and have done a few now which my daughter is loving finishing off. The wife now has a list of bits and bobs waiting for me.



    Click to view full size!



    Click to view full size!



    Otherwise, I’ve printed a case for my Raspberry Pi 4 including camera mount for use with OctoPi and time-lapses, something else to learn. I’m still waiting on a new RPi4 (Auspost is stupid at the moment), but ended up pinching the one from my Arcade machine in the interim so I could play. I’m still not 100% happy with how it all sits, but I’ve now run a couple of prints through OctoPi (which is awesome) and realised I wanted to move the camera a little higher. I also have a USB LED to provide lighting for the camera which I had bluetac’d in place… which has led to my first *real* attempt in Tinkercad to take an existing piece and extend it to lift the camera up but more complex, attach a slot to add in my LED light bar.


    I still need to learn how to drive tinkercad since it seems my additional bit is sitting 1 or two layers higher than the rest of the piece which I think has led to a little extra lifting on that end. It’s a little tighter than I intended too (which may be because of the lifting) but for my purposes, it holds that LED nice and firmly. It’s a little crude, but it works. The blue piece on the side is the old one for comparison, it doesn't stay there.


    Click to view full size!



    I haven’t needed it since putting OctoPi in, but the plugin to stop printing in a specific area after one part fails rather than starting everything over I think will quickly become my new friend.

    I’m looking at using three smart plugs to turn on the Printer, Pi and LED independently. At the moment these are controlled by google home so I can yell at the air or use my phone. I’d love to automate or at least control the printer power and LED through OctoPi, but that’s proving to be a challenge with what I have at the moment. There is a plugin for TPLink switches and Tuya (which do Brilliant) but it’s a problem for later.
    It is possible to control the USB Power on the RPi itself, although my first test of this seems to only cut power for a moment before it just comes back on.


    For funsies: the time lapses (from before the bracket):






    When it comes to supports, is there any way to identify *where* you want supports in Cura? There are some prints that I would like to have some supports, but not a billionty everywhere. I have seen a few prints where people have included supports in the base stl to make things easier… but even then, how is that done?
     
  11. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    In cura you enable supports, than use the Support blocker to take them away from where you don't want them. Easier, but less sophisticated, you adjust the overhang angle, to reduce where cura adds supports in.

    To design in customer supports, you have to do that in your CAD design, and keep Supports off in cura.
     
  12. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

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    I'm running Ultimaker Cura 4.7.1 and that little support blocker button doesn't appear for me? Is there something I need to do to turn on as an option?

    All the things I google tell me how to use it (or people who are having issues with making it work), but they all just say "press the button"... which doesn't appear to exist for me.
     
  13. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    They changed the icon in 4.7, it's still there. check the last two posts on this thread: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/26646-support-blocker/
     
  14. Outcast_Aussie

    Outcast_Aussie Member

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    I'm just "Left clicking" but, yes, it appears ghosted.
    I still clicked on it a couple of times and I assume it started working.
    "Assume" because I've never created custom supports myself.
     
  15. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    you click the icon, then click on the build plate somewhere, it then drops a 'cube' that you can then select like a model, and stretch/rotate etc. using the regular tools to set how big and where you want the support blocked.

    you can also load up another model, and then tell cura in the per-model settings that model is a support or support blocker. really poweful, if not a little non-intuitive at first.
     
  16. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    I'm in Perth but only have PLA+ filaments.
     
  17. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Haven't tried PLA + would be been to at some stage.
    If you want to try PETG we can do a sample trade or something of a amount ;)
     
  18. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Nay not really after PETG haha. Seems like it ruins glass plates. I don't want to put stuff on my plate either so rather just keep it as it is for now. If you want those bits printed in PLA+ I can do them for you though.
     
  19. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    got a roll of abs to try out... but i got the cheater stuff. - esun abs+. this is the stuff that's not affected by smoothing using isopropyl alcohol. 250 hotend and 95 bed. from left to right: pla+ (silk light blue), petg (grey), abs+ (blue).

    went down easily with the usual gluestick. no enclosure, but i got lucky i guess as its only a small print. a bit hairy, so a bit more tuning is in order. i dont really know what id use abs for. i think petg/pla is plenty strong for what i need right now.

    i've got a roll of carbon fibre, wood and concrete coming so i'll give them a shot when they finally arrive.
     

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  20. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

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    Got Octolapse working after a couple of false starts, still working on getting the machine to pause for a filament change, this was done manually. All in all not much stringing at all and it was an easy cleanup.

     

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