3d printer troubleshooting/tweaking/building

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rockofclay, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Interesting and tempted.
    There's 8 pieces I need to print about 4 days worth of they are done together in blocks.

    PETG is meant to be fine with painters tape it's just trying to find the settings that work for the roll I have.

    I have a auto leveler I need to install as well as other components so will get those done and try again.
     
  2. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Yeh PM me if you decide you want those in PLA+. I prefer printing them individually which wouldn't add that much time anyway.
     
  3. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Will pm you if needed.

    I'm doing some upgrades etc.
    The 3D touch there are two options to replace the Z stop or in addition to it.
    What do you guys use?

    Here is my pinot seems I'll need to adjust wires on the other end to match the SKR mini 2.0

    I can use some advice from you guys that have done this.

    Screenshot_2020-10-02-16-43-16-126_com.ebay.mobile.jpg
    Screenshot_2020-10-02-16-42-57-137_com.ebay.mobile.jpg IMG_20201002_165720-01.jpeg
     
  4. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i have my bltouch plugged into the z-stop on my skr 1.4 turbo. was more familiar/easier to do as i had it plugged the same way when i had the stock board. i had to swap the wires for the z-stop also. i read that some ppl were having trouble with it being plugged in the probe port, and i was eager to get my machine up and running so i took the easier route.

    you have the 3.1 version like me, so make sure you;'ve enabled the 5v mode in configuration_adv.h. (#define BLTOUCH_SET_5V_MODE). let me know if you want to have a look at my *.h files for comparison.
     
  5. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Was thinking about the z stop or the probe port.
    One isn't exactly locked in and can just change the connector etc.
    And if you get dupont without the tags doesn't matter either way.
    I guess may as well start with the zstop replacement and setup the dual later.

    Yea would be interested in looking at what you have as well if you have any photos of the connector etc so I can get a visual confirmation I believe I need to swap the blue and red on the dupont as they are reversed.

    I also need to look for the latest firmware for the SKR mini 2.0.

    Will get to this end of the weekend.
     
  6. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    on my Tevo Torando, I added a BLtouch to it (to Z-max), and kept the Z-min stop. made the required firmware changes and it worked fine. you just had to make sure the bed as set above where the min stop would kick in, or the BLTouch wouldn't 'find' the bed to level it right. so there was a little sweet spot between where the BLTouch found it and before the min stop stopped it - and of course without crashing the nozzle.

    got a CR10SPro v2 recently, it only has a BLTouch (as Z-min), it also works. So no need for the additional Z-min stop. This way doesn't have the (minor) annoyance of having to have the bed in a very particular height so both sensors would work as intended.
     
  7. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i still don't know why i would need dual z-stops, so i got rid of the mechanical. i did keep the mounting post and have it setup just high enough so the nozzle doesnt crash into the bed, just in case something happens.

    my connectors below: skr 1.4 turbo, white and black wires on the z-stop, and the 3 colours on the servos port.
    IMG_8595.jpg IMG_8523.jpg


    my configs attached. bltouch stuff in configuration_adv.h at around line 645.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Sweet I'll look at it later this weekend.
     
    uLa32 likes this.
  9. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Still to install my bdtouch but need to print a new fan shroud first (Ender 5)
    Installed the new Meanwell power supply and very disappointed. The fan is temperature controlled but when it does come on, it's just as loud and the fan in the removed Landy supply. I'v ordered a new quiet fan for it. On the plus side, the steppers are now silent or close to.
     
  10. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    RyoSaeba I got some PLA+ myself to try so if you want to share settings.
    I need to put the leveler and a Micro Swiss hot end on but been slack playing Genshin Impact.
    I got the painters tape also to keep the PETG down.

    If there's anyone in Perth you are welcome to come catch up talk 3D printers etc and team some samples of me of materials to try.
     
  11. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i found a psu cover from thingiverse and modded it (ie: cut and drilled) to fit a spare 120mm pc fan. it still works the same way. the hotend fan is the loudest now.

    672C2A37-160D-49C6-9E76-0FA03B2B81A5.jpeg
     
  12. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    I just used my old default PLA settings in cura. Probably not optimized but it'll print. I rarely use the FDM printer so I don't really play with it much.
     
  13. m3k

    m3k Member

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    i think your printer isnt assembled tightly make sure your excentric nuts are adjusted so that they hug the rails correctly and make sure there isn no slop in the printer generally down to the nozzle

    have u messed with esteps? but i doubt its that. the pattern is a bit too funky
     
  14. m3k

    m3k Member

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    instead of changing initial flow for first layer- on printers with uneven beds or poor leveling ill set the initial layerwidth to 150% or so- That way you dont get crazy elephant footing and over extrusion

    but its best to just level your bed correctly and use adhesion promoter like gluestick or whatever- or just up the bed temp till the bastard sticks :p (maybe not too high)
     
  15. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

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    One month in I've been running pretty much every day doing something... lots of Among Us guys at the moment including my own attempt at remixing a few different designs using Tinkercad.

    I started having issues printing some finer parts which were standing up where it would either come off the bed (a brim or raft didn't' always fix this) or it would end up with a lump of plastic on the top... maybe something moved just enough to cause something to drag?? In any case I tried cleaning to nozzle and under the silicon sock but that seemed to cause level issues with the bed at which point I turned it all off and went to bed instead.

    Today I figured it was time for my first round of proper routine maintenance. I pulled down the hot end, trimmed the bowden tube to trim remove the scorched end and looked at cleaning the nozzle. There was residue in the nozzle and I don't know if that was normal or not but I figured since I had a spare I might as well just replace it.

    I've put it under the USB Microscope to get a little looksee. This is one month in, printing almost every day with PLA/PLA+ and nothing special.

    Front:
    [​IMG]

    Back:
    [​IMG]


    In any case, it's away and printing again with a larger piece and I'm not saying that a good bed levelling wasn't the real solution to all my problems, but for the ~$1 it costs to replace a nozzle, it's probably with doing when you're doing maintenance. I just ordered a pack of 10 nozzles and some Capricorn tubing for next time around too.
     
  16. m3k

    m3k Member

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    nozzles a bit worn down (i think from the photo)- printing 200+c with teflon hotend can literally offgass and release toxic PTFE fumes that can kill pet birds and harm you over a long term- its my main suggestion for swapping to allmetal asap

    also less maintence
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2020
  17. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

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    I'm tempted by the concept of direct drive, but then the stock setup works with minimal fuss so I don't understand the benefits except for printing flexible materials (some of which apparently work fine with the bowden tube, especially if you're using the narrower Capricorn tube (apparently)). I also read about the concerns of adding to the moving mass of the print head... who knows where the truth really lies.
     
  18. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

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    i was thinking of doing a direct drive also. problem is i've got my ender 3 pretty dialled in and i dont want to upset it by converting it to dd. i was thinking i'll grab an ender 5 and make that dd, but after a bit of research, im not sure which machine should be the best candidate for a dd conversion now.
     
  19. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Ender 3 for DD and Ender 5 for Bowden.

    One of the main benefits of CoreXY is that the X/Y moving components are very light reducing artifacts ect . Direct drive sort of kills that.
    With a Cartesian printer the Y axis is pretty heavy so a bit extra on the X is less of an issue since you are going to have to slow stuff down anyway.

    The Z axis is much less of an issue for either since its movement speeds is normally much slower, less regular and over a shorter distance.
     
  20. Revenger

    Revenger Member

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    Finally put my printer back together.
    Tried the PLA+ and isn't sticking to the glass bed with the 3D Touch.
    I cleaned the bed and went over it with IPA.
    May try painters tape of that helps but advice welcome.

    Will have to adjust Z probe offset.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2020

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