3d printer troubleshooting/tweaking/building

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by rockofclay, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2008
    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Geeveston, Tasmania
    Glass+PLA+Cedel 'Extra Firm' Hairspray is a winning combination for me (Ender 5).
    Sometime holds a bit too well and I have to put the glass in the freezer to get it to release :)
     

    Attached Files:

  2. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    Messages:
    1,679
    Location:
    North Rockhampton
    Ender 5 is not core X Y. Still a cartesian 3d printer, just X and Y are on the hot end and the bed is only Z, and built as a cube.
     
  3. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2006
    Messages:
    2,413
    Location:
    Perth , St James
    Looks like you are right. I had just always assumed it was CoreXY from the shape and bed layout.

    Point still stands. With the bed being the Z axis and the hotend being both X and Y keeping the hotend weight low would be a good idea.
     
    CQGLHyperion likes this.
  4. CQGLHyperion

    CQGLHyperion Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    Messages:
    1,679
    Location:
    North Rockhampton
    The kickstarter biqu printer apparently has a quite compact and lightweight direct drive that is smaller and lighter then Hemera.
     
  5. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2002
    Messages:
    416
    Location:
    western suburbs, vic
    i thought as much from my readings. you only have to compensate for the x axis on the ender 3 when converting to dd but you'll have to do both the axis for the 5. apparently the 5 is the faster printer so it's best to keep it on a bowden tube.

    when my initial layers dont stick i use a bed levelling stl test: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789086 -- adjust your z just enough so that it sticks, but low enough so that your first layer has a smooth finish. adjust via your babysteps and fine tune each corner as needed with your bed levelling knobs.

    i've also had to resort to using a brim for small footprint stl's to get it to stick. even more so for 0.2 and 0.3 nozzles.
     
  6. hellaflush

    hellaflush Member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2009
    Messages:
    2,097
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I have never drawn a wiring diagram before so please, no judgey. Will my idea work? Reason for wanting to go against the grain is:
    • XT60 plugs are out of stock literally everywhere locally for me atm and would require overseas delivery from china which will take 2-4 weeks.
    • The standard inline XT60 connector is also a potential problem I have seen on the Creality units due to crimping from factory. I would replace this with a straight 16AWG wire (which others have done).
    • I would think this would be a better use of the spare 24v ports on the PSU, having all added accessories external from the main connection/unit. My Pi and LED light strip would be powered together, isolated from the main unit and no need for XT60 or any connectors.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. cvidler

    cvidler Member

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2001
    Messages:
    14,160
    Location:
    Canberra

    well you're not going to be an electrical engineer any time soon, but that diagram is perfectly understandable.

    Nothing wrong with your idea, the extra 24v connectors on the PSUs are all connected internally, so they're all the same, can use them however you wish. (not like many computer PSUs where there may actually be more than 1 12v supply and you need to worry about sharing load amongst them).


    Jaycar have XT60 connectors, online shows they have stock would be faster to order from them than from china.
     
  8. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2005
    Messages:
    2,284
    Location:
    Kilsyth 3137
    I looked at buck converters and powering the Pi from my Ender 3 v2, most of the time they are on together, but I do like being able to switch them independently sometimes. I would add one (maybe two) inline switches for the LED and the Pi as I can see times where you might want one or both of them off, sure you might leave them on 99.9% of the time, but handy and cheap to do while you're setting it up,

    At the moment I am using two smart plugs so I can yell at Google to turn on the 3D Print or 3D Pi, this allows me to do maintenance on the Pi or set things up when I don't need the printer on... or more often to start heating things up without having to go to the other room where the printer lives (in the next room across at the back of the rumpus room... I can see if from my computer, but there wasn't space in my study nook for the printer. I keep considering a touch screen for the Pi to let me do basic things from the machine, the other option is an old 4:3 LCD I have sitting unused in the shed. The Pi4 should happily run Raspian in GUI mode while running Octipi... But that is much more space than the current desk/bench has available.

    For lighting, I'm running a USB LED that I had laying about from a Pi4 2GB which is in a 3D printed case with a camera mount. I modified the design to extended the camera mount to raise the camera up and added a provision for the LED bar. The whole getup now sits on a paver in front of the printer to lift it up a little higher again, I've also got some bluetac in there that in combo hopefully help with vibrations when taking photos. Theoretically, I have a plugin that is supposed to turn off power to the USB ports and kill the light, but it's sort of hit and miss and I rarely want to turn off the light if the Pi is on.

    The lighting is more than sufficient to let me watch the print happen without any other light source, even time lapses are pretty good, but really the novelty of time lapses wore off very quickly (as cool as they are) and it's really just about being able to remotely monitor the print in case something goes wrong.

    [​IMG]
    (the blue bit on the side is the original camera mount for comparison).
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2020
  9. hellaflush

    hellaflush Member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2009
    Messages:
    2,097
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Yeah I was thinking of putting a switch inline for the LED strip so I have ordered this, and some DC plugs

    [​IMG]
    I really want to set up an automatic schedule for the LED strip so that it's illuminated between 6 pm-6 am (I know there is a plugin in octoprint for this) but I had already ordered the LED strips so it may have to be a manual thing for now with me just routinely turning it on at dinner time and switching it off when I wake up.
     
  10. th3_hawk

    th3_hawk Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2005
    Messages:
    2,284
    Location:
    Kilsyth 3137
    Would a relay off the pins on the Pi work?
     
  11. Revenger

    Revenger Member

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2002
    Messages:
    4,210
    Location:
    Armadale / Perth
    Anyone in Perth have some free time to help give a hand on calibration and stuff?
    I can be a noob and in eager to learn just need to be shown sometimes and walked through things.

    I printed a calibration cat the bottom was a mess top was ok despite having a leveling sensor.
    I'll try to get the bed level today manually.

    Though if anyone has time can use a hand.
    You can grab some sample filaments to help with settings etc.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2002
    Messages:
    1,644
    Location:
    Melbourne, 3056
    This stuff works well for me, but I don't like the fact it's loaded with fragrance. I wish I could get it without the perfumes.


    Personally I would power the PI independently, so you can install one of these to control power to the printer. Bonus is that you can measure power consumption to work out total cost of prints, and power off the machine to save dosh, or in case of emergencies. The pi can shut down itself, and wake on lan. It's also useful for other duties when the printer is off (camera, NAS, etc).

    The bonus is, you can run the smart plug above with Tasmota, so it's all open source.
     
    tumutbound likes this.
  13. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2008
    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Geeveston, Tasmania
    I have a super capacitor UPS installed on the Pi so I can just turn power off and the Pi will shutdown when the voltage drops to a certain level. I bought one of these Sonoff devices to control the power with the idea to install it in the electronics enclosure of my Ender 5. The enclosure is metal so that's not going to work! Currently sidetracked with designing an adaptor so I can run 12V fans.
     
  14. hellaflush

    hellaflush Member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2009
    Messages:
    2,097
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Creality friends!

    Just setting up a new Ender 3 V2 and have noticed that it will not move up or down the z axis when force is applied or it is lifted from the Y axis

    It will easily move up and down along the z axis if the motor coupler is rotated (very smooth for down and a little resistance (gravity) going up)

    Is this normal? Haven't tightened everything down fully yet
     
  15. cvidler

    cvidler Member

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2001
    Messages:
    14,160
    Location:
    Canberra
    there'll be a lot of resistance as the mechanical advantage is for the motor to move the platform, not the platform to move the motor (you're trying to move it the wrong way).
     
  16. hellaflush

    hellaflush Member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2009
    Messages:
    2,097
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Splendid!

    Next question is it going to be the stepper switch being faulty (causing the loop to remain open) as to why my X axis moves slightly to the right whenever I tell it to home, and it never actually goes left to the home position at all?

    Have checked all wiring and all connections are toite like a toiger
     
  17. uLa32

    uLa32 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2002
    Messages:
    416
    Location:
    western suburbs, vic
    E3E2BEFE-0E2E-4DD9-8236-E7B26AC11D58.jpeg

    ... and now there are 2! just scored this one in the sale forums. plan for this one is to have the same mods as my pro (mobo, abl, octopi) but with the addition of direct drive - to make it more flexible filament friendly. anyone made this conversion? better to buy off the shelf or use one of the many thingiverse mods?

    also: whats people’s thoughts of nozzles? its widely known that stainless steel nozzles are better for abrasive materials, and they don’t get trashed as quickly as brass ones, but brass offers better temperature stability/consistency? why not go brass all the way and replace when needed?
     
  18. SpaceFrog

    SpaceFrog Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Messages:
    2,111
    Location:
    Brunswick, Melb.
    I'm having an issue with the pause function on my Ender 3 Pro. I'm pausing a print, to insert magnets into a recess, and then it resumes and prints over the top of it to seal them in. Unfortunately when the print resumes everything is printing about 2mm to right. Am using Cura 4.6 to add the pause at a specified layer. Have tried starting the print from the SD card and also from octoprint.
    Curious to know this as well. I bought a pack of nozzles cos I wanted a variety of sizes, and have ended up with heaps of 0.4mm nozzles. They feel disposable at this point.
     
  19. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2008
    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Geeveston, Tasmania
    I also have a stack of 0.4mm nozzles so when one clogs, I just swap it. Cleaning burnt PLA from a nozzle is a pain!
    About to order a Swiss all metal hotend and at $30 a pop, those nozzles will be worth cleaning :)
     
  20. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2008
    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Geeveston, Tasmania
    I've was about to order a Microswiss hotend for my Ender 5 and noticed that they now have a direct drive extruder also. Has anyone installed one of these?
    I've got an E3D V6 that I bought for my first 3D rpinter 7 years ago but it will need an adapter plate to install and I don't have access to metalworking stuff any more so the Microswiss seems a good, easy, if not cheap, alternative.
     

Share This Page

Advertisement: