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3D printing - how do you remove prints from the bed??

Discussion in 'Other Toys/Hobbies' started by sjhupp, Mar 27, 2020.

  1. sjhupp

    sjhupp Member

    Joined:
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    Ok, really hoping someone has some magic tricks to help me please.
    I grabbed a cheap Monoprice mini V2 printer from Amazon to keep me amused whilst isolated. Printed my first thing, no issues. Yesterday I tried to print a figure on it, and left it to cool overnight.
    Apparently some sneaky little elves snuck in to the spare room overnight and superglued the model to the build plate as a joke, as it was almost concreted on!!
    I could lift half the printer off the table just with the little zombie figure.
    I didn't want to use anything metal and damage the plate.
    I tried pressing a cold brick to the figure to decrease the temp of it, but made no difference.
    Can't get floss under it at all.
    Their included plastic spatula is rubbish.
    I even resorted to placing a block of wood next to it and hitting it with a rubber mallet to knock it, but no help.
    Eventually I had to reheat the bed and start working on it while it cooled again, and finally it came off.

    So what's the best way to do this in future?
    What settings are best to adjust to stop it sticking like glue to the build plate?
    Is it the heated bed temp (was 50'C)? or the thickness of the first layer?
    Any help appreciated.
     
  2. Madengineer

    Madengineer Member

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    Don't worry about damaging the actual bed. You can scrape them (usually) with considerable force before they actually get damage. I used to use a paint scrapper. Worked great.

    I love my printer, because it came with a magnetic mat that you place over the bed. It's fantastic!
     
  3. OP
    OP
    sjhupp

    sjhupp Member

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    Yeah, a lot of people like those, or glass beds, but I'd have to adjust the height if I changed it or added one (has a limit switch stuck on the side). Will try one more print and see how it goes.
    Great little machines anyway - can print some replacement figures for some old boardgames finally!
     
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  4. Madengineer

    Madengineer Member

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    I never even thought of that! :D

    I've just finished my 3rd DND tile in 24 hours :D
     
  5. OP
    OP
    sjhupp

    sjhupp Member

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    What tiles are you printing? Thought of that, but mine is only a small printer (100mm area)
    I did some mummies and skeletons, didn't turn out too bad. Good enough to tell what they are.
    I have NFI on what the perfect settings are, but will do some research. Dropping the bed temp to 50 helped a bit, but models are still damn hard to remove. Down to 45'C and the first lines didn't all stick, so can't go lower.
     
  6. QuakeDude

    QuakeDude ooooh weeee ooooh

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    Another vote here for the magnetic Mat. Honestly, I've never ever had any issue removing a print. I haven't even used the scraper the printer came with. Just flick up the mat partially so I can get to the bottom of the print and it pops off easily.
     
  7. OP
    OP
    sjhupp

    sjhupp Member

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    I've just ordered a piece of glass for the bed, so will try that.
    Do like the idea of a flexible/magnetic one, but will see how glass goes.
    Where did you order it from?
     
  8. mtma

    mtma Member

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    The behaviour changes depending on what material you are printing and what surface you're using. PETG is known to stick too well to glass and actually pull shards out of the glass in some circumstances for example. I used salt method to reduce this whilst retaining that shiny bottom surface.

    Generally on a hard surface, the best tactic is to get under a corner or lip, once there is a gap there, the rest can be overcome gradually by working/peeling the split. Therefore it follows that you want to print in a way that reduces the stiffness of the surface laying on the bed if possible.

    If you use glue stick the stuff is water soluble, so if you have a lot of trouble some time submerged in warm water will weaken the bond.

    Alternatively go for a steel sheet bed. In this way if you must print a large object you can take the steel sheet off and peel it off the print instead of the other way around. An very good method in my own experience, and certainly my preference. I bought mine off ebay and modded it to fit my ultimaker.
     
  9. ni9ht_5ta1k3r

    ni9ht_5ta1k3r Member

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    roughing up the surface with sandpaper helps if dealing with a resin printer.
     
  10. m3k

    m3k Member

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    print slightly further away from the bed- if that doesn't work- prime the bed with glue-stick or hairspray to allow for easier release-
     
  11. OP
    OP
    sjhupp

    sjhupp Member

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    I started using a raft, and that seems to work a lot better for getting the prints off. Also changed filament, so perhaps that made a difference too (different brand).
    I do get a lot of 'Z banding' I think it's called, but will try some tweaks after I get the glass (eventually) delivered, as current bed isn't flat anyway.
    For now just making some boardgame token replacements, so little furniture pieces etc, and doesn't really matter.
     
  12. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Sharp metal scraper and a rubber mallet for the really sticky ones. Most others just comes straight off with a bit of force. I'm using Ender 3 Pro with the glass bed for FDM and Wanhao D7 for my STL.
     

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