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3D Printing Requests

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by aXLe, Jun 16, 2013.

  1. psychobunny

    psychobunny Member

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    matte is a finish, not a plastic lol

    the standard finish that will come out on it after being machined will depend on the plastic. after that it can potentially be re-finished via chemical, abrasion, heat, etc depending on the desired finish and the plastic. but you may find the standard finish is perfectly fine.

    If i understand, what you want made up is basically a surrounding trim that wont be under any structural load or exposed to environmental or chemicals? if that's the case then pretty much anything will do as long as its black.

    The only thing i'm not sure on is based on your drawing, the thinnest edge looks to be 0mm thick? this will be quite weak/non-existant and you may be better off with a few mm thick there

    also do you have the model in another format, all these triangles are driving me nuts. If not its ok i will just remodel it in a few mins.


    -update-
    i found a localish guy that will give me a sheet (20mm x 180mm x 270mm) of acetyl for $45-50

    otherwise, are you willing to try wood? i can probably use some scrap mdf and then you can paint it black?
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2016
  2. fergo

    fergo Member

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    A few mm thick at the thin part is ok. The tinkercad software can export in OBJ, STL and SVG (2D) but I'm not sure if that helps.

    Weight of the part is a consideration on a plane so plastic might be better in that regard?
     
  3. psychobunny

    psychobunny Member

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    OK no probs, i'll clean it up. did you need any beveled edges or anything like that, and is rounded internal corners ok (eg a 2 mm radius). i'll put together a model for you to validate - also when do you think you'll have precise info on the holes

    For Solid Materials:
    ABS: ~1200kg/m3
    Acetal: ~1420kg/m3
    MDF: ~660kg/m3

    3d printing would be different as there are air gaps created as part if the printing process, particularly the infill - one of the printing guys would know better
     
  4. fergo

    fergo Member

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    Don't worry about the holes - it's probably easier to drill them when it is getting fitted.

    A 2mm internal radius is fine.

    Is it possible to slightly round the outer corners? If you look at page 62 of this PDF it shows the exact measurements (if needed) for the radius but an approximate of that is probably fine.
     
  5. psychobunny

    psychobunny Member

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    thanks for the link, makes a lot more sense now and there are a couple of things that may play into it. outer corners are easy to round off as per the screen

    because the screen has the deep internal bit it really means you will be using the perpendicular part of the 'trim' for the screen side, and with that in mind it means the surface that you are mounting the trim to will be slightly 'taller' than the original space (think hypotenuse of a triangle - the book calls this the 'bezel outline'). it also means the holes may not line up if you use the cutting/drilling templates in the book.

    I'll have a 3d model for you tonight :thumbup: (in metric)
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2016
  6. Sphinx

    Sphinx Member

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    Ultimaker 2 Extended Plus
    Ultimaker has a new 3D printer that produces finer details and has some other nifty features

     
  7. psychobunny

    psychobunny Member

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    here's a roundabout way of showing you the model. download this html file and open in your browser

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-F68rHuQQB-NWh3WGI1dEl1NTQ/view?usp=sharing

    still havn't quite worked out the 3d warehouse in sketchup

    for the face that will mount to the screen I can mark the centre for the screws with like a pin prick or something to make life a lil easier, or drill a 1mm pilot hole all the way through perpendicular to that side.

    for mounting it onto whatever the back board is, you can probably screw it in from behind with 4 screws to make life easy
     
  8. fergo

    fergo Member

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    Thanks for your efforts. That looks good.

    The screws need to go through mounting holes on the display, through the bezel and into the current mounting screw holes.

    This is how it is currently mounted:

    [​IMG]

    The bezel just fills the gap (the screw will follow the same path as the photo).

    Doing the screw holes at time of install will be easiest, by marking it off the screen and the mounting hole, so you can probably ignore them.
     
  9. cevad

    cevad Member

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    Just got myself a new switch and wireless AP - I want to stack them like my previous ones, but the switch design has been changed from the previous 5 port that I bought a few months back and is much smaller, and not flat on top.

    http://www.tp-link.com.au/products/details/cat-4763_TL-SG1008D.html

    As a result the AP http://www.tp-link.com.au/products/details/cat-12_TL-WA901ND.html does not sit flat on top.

    Would a stand to stack them be too big to print on a 3d printer?

    Would probably want something about 20cm x 15cm x 3cm (W x D x H), with holes in the platform to reduce print time and assist with cooling.

    Wife wants me to use velcro, but I want something cooler than that :)

    Thanks.
     
  10. josh1990

    josh1990 Member

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  11. Billzilla

    Billzilla Member

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  12. josh1990

    josh1990 Member

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    Brilliant, thanks Bill. I'll have a good think about whether or not I want to delid (never done it) and I'll swing you a pm.
     
  13. MortarArt

    MortarArt Member

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    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 10, 2016
  14. iceyman

    iceyman Member

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  15. kjparker

    kjparker Member

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  16. sammy_b0i

    sammy_b0i Laugh it up, fuzzball!

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    I've got a pretty simple design to request.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:753551

    They're $6 at PCCG but shipping is extortionate.

    Could anyone put this thing together, and if so, how much and how long? :thumbup:
     
  17. MortarArt

    MortarArt Member

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    I can print that in PLA for $6 & ABS for $8. Postage would be $8.50. How many do you need? What colours?
     
  18. sammy_b0i

    sammy_b0i Laugh it up, fuzzball!

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    I'd only be after a single one, black preferably. There's a local member who may have one pre-made, waiting to hear about that tonight, but if he doesn't have one, I'd be interested in getting one in ABS, I'd assume. Will let you know.

    As for postage, can it just go in an envelope as a large letter? Would only cost a few dollars at most, just because it's relatively flat and not fragile.
     
  19. iceyman

    iceyman Member

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  20. MortarArt

    MortarArt Member

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    It should fit in an envelope. Printing is relatively automatic, but the post office will take about 20 minutes of my time. I'd already factored that into the price. I would charge $12 or more for anything thicker than 20mm.

    ABS can withstand >90c without warping. PLA 55. How hot will this area of your PC be?
     

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