Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by datfreak, Jan 24, 2020.
once u get an octoprint server up u will almost forget you had an LCD
This is so true. I did get a 3.2" TFT for my Ender 5 and MKS Gen L, but it's never been connected. I had to print a surround for the TFT to fit in the Ender display mount and never got around to it.
My CR-10 (knockoff, Tevo Tornado) runs 24v, and a 240v (mains) heated bed.
datfreak, Before you even worry about the electronics, you need to completely go over the frame and make sure it is square. Go over the whole printer and check all screws and fitting. If you frame is not square you will always have problems with your prints and will just chase you tail trying to work out what is causing bad or failed prints.
You need to check your rollers for flat spots and tension, this is another area that will cause you print problems if not setup right.
Look over your belts to see if they are frayed or warn out. They are cheap and you should just get some new belts.
The best electronics in the world want make up for bad mechanical setup.
As others have said, plenty of YouTube videos to help setup every part of your printer.
the TLDR of setup is dont over-tighten eccentric rollers but dont have them too loose either, losen frame and tighten down with setsquare as a guide- worse case scenario u might need to sand the end of a extrusion- but ive been lucky and u can buy new rollers that have flat spots in them for cheap ^_^
the cr10 initially was 12v - but needs really really beefy wires, due to the low voltage- and strong connectors- its way more of a fire hazard than mains for heat bed ironically- But at the same time mains for the heat bed is a safety hazard for shock- so its give an take as-long as your grounding is good on both frames/bed you should be right. but always consult a licensed electrician and get the OK if you mess with mains IMO- PC power supply is good in that way - its all contained and u dont mess with mains but you will have to run a lot of 12v rails parallel to power such a beefy printer.
the reason i would suggest you dont stray from the initial 12volt is because the heatbed, heater cartrage, all the fans, etc are probably all 12v components.
if u get a 24v psu you can be hacky and pwm output all the components to "12v" or 50% duty cycle via firmware but..... sounds like a disaster waiting to happen- and will probably fry the fans LOL maybe not if the PWM in the firmware is set high enough .. i might experiment with this for lols but probably should never do this as its a disaster waiting to happen IMO
there is also the option of not using a heated bed at all- Which might sound crazy- but with a sticky surface like blue tape or glass with glue - you can get away with it for PLA and fiber re-enforced plastics
also i might be running my mouth like i know everything just take it with a grain of salt- we all out here learning as we go along-
Virus in china and festivals mean I still havn't got the parts yet.
I cancelled the first order and gone with another this time hopefully getting a skr 1.4 turbo board with tmc2209. Still using a cr-10 cable extension kit as the cables but will cut off and replug on the board side with jst connectors.
Im getting impatient. Cables, skr board,mosfets,screen and jst crimper all "in transit"for 2 weeks uggh.
A stupid question but what do I print on? Is it best to buy a mirror or glass sheet? The 30cm mirror tiles at bunnings were acrylic Is there another cheap local source of glass ones?
I was thinking of buying a $5 picture frame and binning all of it and just keep the glass.
Are cheap $30 all metal hot ends ok? - seem to have good reviews.
Hopefully I can update this thread with some new parts soon
you want borosilicate glass - so it's heat resistant. And cheap isn't in the equation.
regular glass will crack in no time.
It's easiest to just buy a borosilicate glass sheet cut to the size of your bed.
There are also sources for polypropylene build plates now that are supposed to work quite well.
I have used standard 3mm glass beds cut to size from 250mm to 400mm square for years and not one has cracked. The only time you will crack a standard glass bed is if you ram your HotEnd into the bed. All I do is wash the glass in soapy water and dry, make sure you don’t touch the top surface with you hands. Never had a problem with my first layer not sticking.
Also printing on 3mm glass with no issues. I use Cedel Extra hold hairspray (on the glass, not my hair) and I've never had a print lift. As mentioned, soap and water to clean.
I am thinking about a flexible, magnetic bed that Teaching Tech featured recently but it's out of stock. Waiting for a Bondtech (clone) extruder but the New Year/Corona seems to be slowing things down.
Always been curious. When using hair spray on a glass bed, do you use it on the cold bed, or spray on once the bed is heated?
Have had a glass bed sitting there to be used for a while, but the odd time I've tried it had issues with adhesion. Not sure if it was bed levelling, but have an auto-leveler now so been meaning to give it another try.
I usually heat the bed which makes sure that any water from washing is gone and dries the hair spray as you spray it on. Only problem with hair spary is the smell! It has a very strong floral bouquet. Cedel should make a fragrance free product aimed at 3D printers
ive had glass and borocilicate glass crack- but only when you dont give it space to expand- it expands quite alot when getting to 60c
I use bulldog clips. Strong enough to hold the glass in place but still let the glass expand as required.
Thanks for the info!
i break down PVA gluestick in water and a touch of Isopropyl alcohol and put it in a old glasses cleaner spray bottle and shake thoroughly before spraying a coat, you can wipe it very quickly before it dries to get an even coat on the glass- but you want the most microscopic of coats - thats if i print on glass often i wont have to make a new coat until many prints in , that way your bottom surface is perfectly shiny -but i find myself printing on sanded PEI sheet on metal plate lately due to time restrictions
My borosilicate glass bed chipped from a print, I think that was the PETG on bare glass affair.
I have switched to steel, but up until before that the salt method was my favourite. I thought I might need to phosphate the steel bed but almost everything has worked fine on it so far. I like the idea of the steel bed for the improved thermal conductivity too.
people think that the gluestick is to add adhesion- for PETG and sometimes PLA on glass its to make it peel away easily! when the plastic cools down it can crack /chip glass
so where's this buildlog
Parts from china are coming, slowly...
F5 Has no letters now from my constant refreshing of the tracking pages.
Still waiting on the cable kit, but i have just got the board.
So far ive only flashed a marlin firmware on it and seen the screen work.
Once the cables are here and i cut off and replug the board side plugs i hope to get some action.
When I installed the drivers on the board it seems i have to cut off one of the drivers pins to use the std endstops, otherwise it will use sensorless homing. Ive left the pin on for now(dont want to cut off pin from new expensive drivers), but seems a quirk of the 1.4t board with tmc2209 drivers.
Hopefully i can update this thread soon