Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by datfreak, Jan 24, 2020.
heat makes for best adhesion on glass- gluestick will stop it from sticking too good
i honestly love ur enclosure- very clean- if u get a chance- maybe re-print it in pet-g there is some study showing pet-g doesnt hold a flame PLA isnt bad- but ABS is horrible it holds fire so easily
make sure your voltage on ur drivers are set correctly- your Y axis drive might have been running too high or too low
i recomend taking out those ugly yellow inserts- and getting huge standoffs printed and mounting all ur electronics on the belly
My 1st try with the gluestick got the print stuck to the glass. I heated the bed to 70 and it came off with force but wasnt ideal.
Hairspray made a few prints come unstuck half way thru.
Adhesion to the magnetic mat worked so well, maybe ive stuffed up the z height with the glass.
Thanks,I like the simple box also, and ill look onto reprinting it with pet-g.
Looking into dual z upgrade- there are a few cheap($55) kits for cr-10 standard on ebay.. mine is a cr-10 mini.
i could be wrong but the difference between cr-10 models is bed size and bed height but the aluminium extrusion and steppers are the same
So a dual z kit for a standard cr-10 should fit my mini CR-10 but i'd have to cut back the lead screw to the same length as the existing one. Unless im missing something?
my cr10 mini isnt upgraded to dual z its not nececary tbh but if u do it - try to wire the motors in series instead of paralel to stop crosstalk
use cheap hairspray to help the 1st layer stick to the glass bed. It's what i use and it works well.
try to not spray on ur leadscrew and motors and stuff cause they can get clogged after a while and dont breathe hairspray
ofcourse, you just need a light spray on the bed. It makes it ever so slightly pourous and tacky for the hot plastic to bond to.