AC2 themed high end, watercooled mini-itx build..(Warning..Pics update)

First of all, I'm not sure if this is the right place to start new thread, but I'll explain.

I've been wanting for a while to build a gaming mini-itx machine in the smallest possible box, and of course, water cool it.

This might take a while to build, since I can only pretty much do cutting, spray painting etc. on saturdays.

Parts list acquired:

Gigabyte H55N-USB3
i7-875K Cpu
Shuttle 500W 80+ PSU
Seagate 2.5" 500GB momentus XT (the new hybrid model) ADATA S559 SSD Instead
OCZ 2GB X 2 1600CL7 (from current PC for the moment)
Slim laptop optical DVD/RW
GTX295 (single PCB with Koolance water block on, bought off Paul at Gammods)
Thermaltake VFD
Old P4 Shuttle case as donor, since actually making the case as I would've liked would take even longer.

Water cooling parts acquired:

Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Gen Two Radiator /fan
Black Ice GT Xtreme M92 Radiator /fan
DD- CPX1 Pump
D-tek Fuzion 2 CPU block
Swifteck micro res. 2 or Danger Den Fillport Reservoir
1/2 tubing / compression barbs 7/16 red tubing with black compression fittings to suit

Parts needed:

Depending how it goes, might need some 45, 90deg barbs
Need 1156 CPU bracket / most likely have to manufacture one.
SSD hard drive as OS Drive would be nice, but finances say no.
Spray paints (at the moment there is a black/red theme).
Perspex for custom made front panel with custom made logo(I have something in mind)

I have done some research into the capabilities of the PSU powering this system, and it looks promising, but just in case I do have a thermaltake bay PSU on standby, which I've used previously in another G31 based shuttle with a dual PCB GTX295..

I most likely would like to make a 3D design, which will help me a lot as well, but I'm pretty sure I can visualise things as they are, my Google Sketchup skills aren't quite spectacular at the moment.

Any ideas/help especially with the water cooling are welcomed.

 

Could we have some diagrams?

Also, check out Lan Gear's ITX case that's supposed to be coming out soon.

It's in beta stage at the moment, it's the same volume as a SG05 but has space for a full ATX psu and a dual rad.

 

Hmm, the Lan Gear's ITX case looks interesting, actually I was thinking to build something similar, but still I guess I'm obsessed on using the smallest possible case and cramming it with hardware..as a challenge I didn't even want to consider using a full PSU(any way you put in, it still requires either a slightly taller or wider case as per above which is ~23 cm width)..just a personal preference, anyways thanks as I wasn't aware of it.

I take it that by diagrams you mean seeing how it all fits together, well I have some pics from a bit earlier and also from tonight, as I started doing some cutting, these are just mockups so the end result may not reflect the pics.
As for the water cooling diagrams, still thinking how to make the loop(it will be my first water cooled project)


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Also the standard mini-itx board will not fit in the older model shuttle without modding.


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Originally I was contemplating using a second 92mm Rad, but since I only have one, I sourced a thinner 120mm which can also be mounted on top(just needs a bit more cutting)


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nice, I like mini water cooled rigs

good luck with it

 

Love the idea of compact water cooling. Im in the middle of modding a mid size case with water cooled CPU and GPU with dual rad and two singles. In my opinion, the diameter of the tubing is the tricky part in compact cases. I think the key to routing tubing in your case will be using rotary angled fittings. The Koolroom has heaps of affordable fittings in stock. The phobya fittings are much cheaper than bitspower, but obviously bitspower have much nicer finish and are probably better quality, but still, the phobya fitting will do the job well. Check out the outside diameters in the specs list of the tubing to get an idea of just how bulky the tubing can get. Im using Tygon 7/16x 11/16x 1/8 tubing because it has an excellent bend radius and because you have to heat up the tubing to squeeze it on the half inch barb, there's no need for clamps. Check out this review to see the difference in wall thickness and bend radii in different types of tubing. Also, if things get really cramped, you can always go with slim fans like these for your rads.

good luck dude

 

Thanks mate

Thanks for the tips, I actually got a bunch of 1/2 compression fittings and some barbs, truth is I've had these watercooling parts sitting in a box for quite a while, including the 1/2" tubing..but yeah I was thinking to get the 7/16 and some rotary fittings very soon, in fact I might just place an order with Gamms..I'm pretty sure from my calculations that I can fit standard thickness fans also, but if it gets too cramped I'll keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the link btw.

 

Why not go 3/8? Bit smaller and should be easier to route in such a small case, wont hamper flow more than the airflow the rads will get (performance wise).

Looking good so far

 

Agreed, 1/2 could make you loose the will to live in that small a case. I really think that people go the bigger tubing more for perceived performance increase and looks. I did read test somewhere where they tried both 3/8 and 1/2 and there was really nothing in it performance wise. Maybe things have changed since then but the 3/8 does tighter bends before kinking and is a lot easier to work with.

1/2 tubing does look good though

 

I agree as well, I just have to actually try the tubing first(since I already have the 1/2" and barbs to go with it)..

Anyways, small update, I was just in touch with another member who apparently has another BI M92 Rad from a previous shuttle X58 build I believe, and it looks like I might be getting it soon. I'm not sure if I'll be using it, but it can't hurt since they're not easy to come by, by placing it in the front though it can easily replace the thinner 120mm rad and that leaves the top bay free in case I still need to use the bay PSU(just takes less real estate anyways)

Also, it's good to know people and since my neighbour works in a architectural model shop he has access to CNC routers..So he's on standby waiting for me to give him a design for the front panel. The whole thing should replace the mirror perspex panel that comes stock with this model shuttle, will most likely be black or smoked and have a logo that looks something like this,


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Just need to find some time now..

 

i know the feeling

 

Damnit, i am looking at doing something very similar with an old shuttle case too.... At least I can use your build for ideas Looks good

 

Finally I managed to do a little bit more work today(not much mind you), but since this is such a small case, it's a bit of a challenge to try to fit everything I have planned for it.

I've taken plenty of pics as well, but I'll start by putting up just a few of the art works I found or made (I am going to have the Assassin's Creed theme as a custom painted cover, I just think the whole Italian Renaissance is cool and quite well depicted in the game)..


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and possibly incorporate the following lit up logo(or something similar) in the front of the case as a power button..


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So today I managed to do a bit of cutting, first I needed to fit the new PSU in properly, actually had to cut some material from the back of the case for the PSU fan to fit nicely and have good airflow as you can see from this:


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to this:


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But to do this properly, I had to take the PSU cover off, and trial fit the small fan on the outside of case to mark the third hole for the PSU mounting point and also to mark the off cutting..and at this point i've taken some internal pics of the PSU which looks quite beefy.


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During the week I was able to get a second Black Ice Extreme M92 Rad from Ashtefere on the forums(from his previous X58 Shuttle build), so I'll try to fit that in as well as opposed to the larger 120mm rad.


I've also been able to trial fit the single PCB GTX295 with the koolance block, in the case.

Pic of the card itself:


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And in the case:


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Single pcb card fits well within the walls of the case


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..and here can be seen that it basically just touches the inside front wall of the case(although it should have about 2mm clearance once it's in properly), at this point the motherboard isn't mounted to the bottom of the case, that's still on the cards soon.


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As can be seen from the pics, the top support beam has to be cut in places to accommodate for mounting the video card, as it takes up extra space upwards when you attempt to install it(because of the waterblock). I've just quickly cut a couple of notches in it, but it needs more adjusting..and the way it is the card can only be mounted starting from inside the case, holding it up and then actually inserting the motherboard under it and pressing down..I will have to cut a small lip on the left side of the case later, so that the card can be installed normally from the outside of the case, and this way the back of the card won't be hitting that particular lip area(this won't affect fitting the case cover back on)

 

Here the front panel is stripped of the mirror perspex and also trial fitted the VFD, the idea is to have a one piece perspex with just the smaller VFD area visible when turned on..


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More trial fitting of the water cooling gear..it's very tight, depending on arrangement:

Not a very good idea but the pump is quite thick and with the front rad sideways, there's almost no gap at all..


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Perhaps something like this:


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I'd like some advice on the pump being placed as above, if it's doable it may save crucial space..

Anyways 'till next time..I still have to fit the new 1156 CPU bracket I just received a couple of days ago, custom mount the motherboard..and also decide on a two tone color combination for the inside of the case(I'm thinking flat black), and the back of the case for which I'm reserving the following(not sure yet):


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I remember I did a friends Antec Skeleton in the above anodised red with a lot of prepping up and it turned up pretty cool, will have to find the pics later ..

 

Lurv that colour!!!

 

would love to see previous pics

how much a can?

 

That particular can you'll find at Supercheap for $20(but not all stores may stock it).
Found some pics of the Antec Skeleton case I did for a mate in that colour, the idea is to use this can straight on chrome or metal finishes for that anodised look, but I had to use some filler and primer first to fill in some large holes, USB ports etc. on the front of that Skeleton and also to fill in any imperfections..The colour comes out a bit darker this way(since I used a grey primer as well), but I decided to make it more interesting and sprayed a gold/orange pearl in the mix with an airbrush (you can get a great selection of small jars of paints/pearls at a model shop)..there's just a lot of sanding in between.
Pics aren't that great, but it came out pretty well in the end (a few clear coats helps as well), enjoy:


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Now back to more modding..

 

nice color

and nice lil setup.. so theirs 2 x 120.1 rads in their?

nice work with the 295 in their