Thought I'd create a separate thread for my refurb and repair worklogs, rather than clog up the shared retro threads. INDEX Sega Master System - refurb Sega Game Gear Deluxe Carry Case - restoration G&W Donkey Kong - internals repair and swap G&W Manhole - reflector replacement G&W Super Color Crab Grab - refurb G&W Green House - polarizer and reflector replacement G&W Ball - repair G&W Super Color - scratch removal G&W Mickey & Donald - refurb G&W Tabletop - battery terminal cleaning G&W Tabletop Popeye - refurb G&W Fire - basic clean G&W Widescreen Mickey Mouse - reflector replacement Sega Master System and Megadrive - battery backup replacement Sega Game Gear - sound PCB repair Sega Master System - FM sound add-on Commodore 1084 monitor - SCART RGB retrofit Sega Game Gear - VA1 re-cap and refurb Sega Game Gear - BennVenn IPS screen install with ribbon Sega Arcade Power Stick II - clean / sticky button fix Sega Megadrive - refurb Sega Saturn - box repair Atari Lynx II - refurb Atari Lynx II - refurb #2 with BennVenn LCD screen install Atari Lynx 1 - refurb DIY discharge gadget PlayStation 1 - refurb Sega Saturn - refurb Battery Replacement Master System Cart - YouTube Commodore 1084-P monitor - repair New Old Stock Game Gear - refurb Sega Dreamcast - refurb Sega Saturn - motherboard recap Game & Watch Panorama Mickey Mouse - repair and clean Commodore 1084AU - refurb Sega Game Gear Deluxe Carry Cases - clean Atari 2600 Junior - refurb Game Gear - refurb/repair bonanza (Majesco ) G&W Panorama Popeye - repair and clean Sega Nomad - Oleg Endo Venus Sub board install PC Engine Core Grafx - recap Sega Megadrive cartridge - damaged ROM repair Sega Game Gear - blunt force damage repair Sega Dreamcast - Project Schwoitcast Neo Geo memory card - battery replacement Nintendo DS Lite - shell replacement Megadrive Virtua Racing - leaked capacitor replacement BlueSCSI v2 - kit assembly Amiga A501 memory expansion - battery replacement and re-cap NEC PC Engine - refurb and TurboNanza install Commodore 1084S-P1 - repair and refurb Sega Master System - refurb The SMS is my favourite console of all time. It was the first games machine I got after Nintendo G&W, and I must've spent 100s of hours on it as a kid. Time to replace the ancient capacitors and voltage regulator in this unit, and give it a good clean up while I'm at it. It's often the case that memories of technology disappoint when you revisit them, but not with this SMS -- it's still as awesome as the day it first came home from Tandy. This is the Australian release which means it's a PAL unit. The great thing about the Master System Power Base (MS1) is that it has in-built RGB output, as well as the Sega Card slot for 3D glasses and the early games which came on card media. Decades of dust! Forget dust bunnies, I was met with dust boulders on first opening the casing. A quick going over with a soft paint brush makes a big difference. Easy gains before the proper PCB clean-up. This is the less common VA3 motherboard revision, made in 1990, which was fairly late in the console's Australian lifespan (but not Brazil!). Metal heatsink still fitted to the left-hand side. The bottom casing with the motherboard removed. More dust to clean off! The heatsink unscrewed from the linear voltage regulator (circled) and removed from the motherboard. The white crud on the back of the voltage regulator is dried, powdery thermal (transfer) paste. There was a bunch of dried powder stuck to the heatsink too, which I cleaned off. When the paste is dry and powdery, it's not really working effectively to transfer heat away from the regulator. It's crucially important because linear regulators dissipate power as heat, and they get damn hot. This is why the regulators often fail with their own little Chernobyl recreation. The original linear regulator is working, but this one's decades old and they're cheap as chips to replace. I'm going to remove this one and fit a fresh LM7805. Old regulator removed and new one trial fitted. I couldn't just solder it in because it needs to sit at the right height to be screwed onto the heatsink. So, I did things in reverse - temporarily refit the heatsink to set the new regulator's height, then solder the three legs in place. New LM7805 regulator soldered into position. I used much better quality thermal paste - Artic Silver 5. It's pictured here, thinly spread over the metal backing of the regulator. The heatsink screws were originally secured with hot glue, but that's a bit messy looking for my taste. I scraped off the hot glue and used blue thread locker instead. Blue is medium strength; it'll hold the screws tight, but still allow the screws to be undone later, if needed.