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argent's Meshlish Transplant Log and Thoughts

Discussion in 'PC Build Logs' started by argent, May 25, 2021.

  1. argent

    argent Member

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    Hi guys!

    Finally got around to transplanting my components into the new Meshlicious case. As you would have no doubt read, the build quality is amazing given the price was so reasonable. Panels snap in with a satisying click and are easy to remove. Obviously downside will be if you have anything bulging out significantly, you won't be able to close the panels properly.

    Most of my parts are from my current system that resides in a front panel modified Evolv Shift. Swapped out my mechanical WD Black for a 1Tb SSD and also change the TT temperature sensor to the Bykski one because the TT's power cable was dodgy AF and would switch off if you so much as bumped the cable. No RGB in my builds - not a fan of rainbow vomit. Currently only glow is from the ram sticks which is set to breathe in white. Bit annoying that the power indicator on the Meshlish is blue (shown in the USB port) though.

    Parts:
    Mobo: ASRock Z370M/ITX
    CPU: i7 8700k (delidded with TG Conductonaut and pasted with TG Kryonaut)
    RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x8Gb 3466Mhz CL16
    GPU: Asus 1080ti Turbo
    PSU: Corsair SF600 (standard cables)
    NVME: Samsung 970EVO 500Gb
    SSD: Crucial MX500 1TB
    Rad: XPSC EX280
    CPU Block: EKWB Velocty
    Res: Phanteks R160C
    Pump: Bykski B-PMD3-COV DDC
    Tubing: EK ZMT 5/8"
    Fans: 2x Noctua NF-A14
    Misc: Bykski B-TFC-CS-X Digital Flow Meter Temperature Display

    The Build:
    Once I had drained and dismantled the Shift, onto the build! I first fitted the fans/rad and SSD. The screws supplied would make the front panel not snap back on so dome headed screws are recommended. SSD needed to be secured partially because otherwise, I wouldn't be able to get the power cable into it (Corsair standard power cables mean the SATA cable has 4 other plugs in sequence). Most of the other main parts went in without a hitch though the Corsair standard cables again becomes a nightmare due to it's stiffness and shortness specifically the 24pin and 8pin. You will get much better management and aesthetics with custom length cables (bit expensive for me at the moment but might be an option in the future if motivation is strong enough).

    Now the interesting bit of the build - fitting the res and pump. See the photos attached below for more information. I had originally outlined this idea back here with the Phanteks res mounted horizontally in the GPU chamber in 4-GPU configuration. The fitting was 'fine' and works pretty well however, there were some measurement issues from my guestimated diagram as I didn't have the res in hand at the time to measure. I had to remove the backplate (the part that LOOKS like a heatsink but does absolutely nothing owing to no contact with it). The pump bracket is secured by wingnuts at the back of the case and works extremely well. I did have to experiment with the location of the holes though.

    upload_2021-5-25_11-58-55.png

    upload_2021-5-25_11-59-16.png

    upload_2021-5-25_11-59-32.png

    The GPU had to be moved to the lowest rung unfortunately which meant you needed a low profile DP/HDMI adapter (are there even ANY available?). I had to sit my Meshlish on a the styrofoam bracket it came with for now to accommodate my right angled DP adapter which is kind of annoying.

    Admittedly though, given the size of the case and the annoyingness of the Corsair PSU cables outlined before, the fittings and tubing were a bit of a nightmare. Pics can be found in this post: https://forums.overclockers.com.au/posts/18908325/

    Fill and Burp
    I added an extra right angled rotatry on the Phanteks to act as a fill port and that worked very nicely.

    The Bykski DDC is insanely powerful (and loud) given the size of the loop and the Phanteks reservoir design didn't help. Even though the manual states the res can operate in that orientation, it is NOT particularly optimum. At full power, all the air bubbles were absolutely hammered and smashed into tiny bubbles which made the entire res look cloudy. Lovely effect but that also meant it kept on sucking them back through the loop. I'd really recommend something that would allow you to run the pump at like 2500rpm instead as that is much more reasonable (that's about 2L/m) and silent to boot. Running system pics in this post: https://forums.overclockers.com.au/posts/18908328/

    After a week, most of the bubbles have settled down and moved out of the loop so I could top it off. Was hearing some tiny droplet sounds coming from the loop at times before that. There are still a lot of stubborn bubbles though so will have to keep going on it.

    More to Do
    - replace ugly chrome wingnuts with black thumb nuts (already ordered)
    - use a thicboi rad (see below) or setup push pull - either way need to design a new bracket cover to extend the Meshlish front.

    Some Additional Thoughts
    Originally I had accidentally purchased an EKWB CE 280 instead of the SE. I had thought I might be able to use it if I could fashion an 'extension' of the front (didn't need to be meshed as I'd try and incorporate the original mesh front panel in the design anyway) in order to accommodate the 25mm fans mounted on the front of the case instead.

    Alternatively, I could run push pull instead on the XSPC. https://forums.overclockers.com.au/posts/18915089/

    New 3D Printed Feet - 27/5/2021
    I did a little research and found that SSUPD has feet models available for download for free from their website for the Meshlish. Much thanks to m3k and nibennett for their help and advice in producing these! They look a damn sight better than that giant white styrofoam box I was using to prop up the case. Here's how they look: https://forums.overclockers.com.au/posts/18910761/

    I do have to note though that with the new feet, I have to run the pump at 40% speed instead of 30% as with the latter speed, an odd resonance hum can be heard that drove me nuts! Strangely enough running the pump at 40% no longer gives an audible higher pitch hum compared to the styrofoam box. As waterflow does have a decent bearing on cooling performance, I think this is for the better!

    Building in Your Own Meshlicious
    If anyone has any questions or would like some help with their own build, let me know and I'll try and help. I'm trying to keep this build log as an informational thread for others wanting to do something similar especially with the pump mounting section. I might clean up my old mounting ideas diagrams and post them in here as a repository.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2021
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  2. OP
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    argent

    argent Member

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    Updated pictures of fittings and tubes! And no, the cable management isn't the best but I'm awaiting a molex to SATA adapter before making a proper attempt to cable manage. As it stands, nothing is bulging out and given the way the mesh works, airflow isn't a problem.

    upload_2021-5-25_22-53-55.png

    upload_2021-5-25_22-54-20.png

    upload_2021-5-25_22-54-37.png

    upload_2021-5-25_22-54-52.png
     
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  3. OP
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    argent

    argent Member

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    System turned on and running. You can see the Bykski display doing it's job! It's really a very nice unit - it's a pity though that you can't see it through the mesh. Kinda makes me a touch tempted to grab me the tempered glass panel when it becomes available for an additional option.

    upload_2021-5-25_23-0-21.png

    upload_2021-5-25_23-0-51.png
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. OP
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    argent

    argent Member

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    Got the 3D printed feet today! And yes, they are indeed awesome af! Special thanks to m3k of our own Hobby Engineering section for these as they work a treat! Gives the Meshlish a little lift off the desk and looks damn sweet to boot. Printed with TPU, they are certainly nice and sturdy against my desk. You can download special feet from SSUPD directly - no drilling or modifications required as there are already holes for it in the case body. There are is also a fan bracket for the CPU side available there as well if you crave a bit of forced induction :) https://ssupd.com/pages/download

    upload_2021-5-28_21-3-52.png

    upload_2021-5-28_21-4-8.png

    upload_2021-5-28_21-4-21.png
     
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  5. m3k

    m3k Member

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    thats a seriously nice build.

    as for the resonance hum.. maybe i can design some feet with more vibration dampening hehe :Pirate:
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2021
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  6. OP
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    argent

    argent Member

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    Thanks mate :) I love it when a build comes together!

    I put the original sticky feet under the feet you printed and it has cut it down significantly - unfortunately I can still hear the bugger because I'm an OCD bastard when it comes to this sort of stuff so will keep it running at 35-40% as it eliminates that hum completed and the pump is barely audible at that speed. Not to mention no vortexing and air bubbles getting sucked back into the loop from the return!
     
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  7. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Beautiful mate, done well - routing is a thing of beauty. Agreed on hiding the Bykski - will look swish with a TG pane though.

    I'll second the endorsement for m3k too, what a champion :thumbup:
     
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  8. BlueRaven

    BlueRaven Brute force & optimism

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    Love a good SFF build, great job mate!
    That Meshlicious looks schmick.
     
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  9. OP
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    argent

    argent Member

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    Thanks mate! I got my Molex to SATA adapter so have now tidied up the cable management (unsurprisingly, it doesn't look all that much different - just a tad tidier with 1 less PSU cable with 4x SATA connectors daisy chained).

    upload_2021-6-3_21-33-57.png

    I was having a bit of a thought about ways of increasing performance of the loop as I speculated from my mistaken purchase of the 45mm CE radiator. What if I didn't use the CE and just did a push pull config instead with the XSPC? I saw EK's blog post where they pitted a 60mm vs a 30mm radiator and when in push pull, they very nearly matched each other at higher fan RPMs. Even at lower RPM, the difference between just push or pull configs is pretty clear cut. Of course the downside is 2 more fans = more noise generally. Either way, I'll need to design a bracket extension for the front of the Meshlish to accommodate the 2 extra fans at the front.

    And just for fun, I left the fans at 100% without a load on the system and this is my idle temps at an 18C room ambient.

    upload_2021-6-3_21-35-3.png
     
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  10. OCMunkee

    OCMunkee Member

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    argent you can get press-fit SATA connectors, it's the way I've made correct-length single or multi SATA cables in the past.

    Just double & triple check your wiring before connecting!
    Molex-SATA_POWER.png

    They look like this (can post you a couple if you want?)
    22261A07-5DAC-4AFA-B597-C04A0643106B.jpeg

    Or even better: power from a USB header:
    USB-SATA_POWER_600px.jpg

    What model is your right-angle DP adapter? Is it DP v1.4?
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2021
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  11. OP
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    argent

    argent Member

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    All good OCMunkee :) I basically reduced my clutter by just running a molex cable from the PSU with a cheap Molex to SATA adaptor as I only need a single one. The other 2 molex on the chain is powering the pump and the Bykski monitor.

    My DP adapter is only 1.2 - I don't really need it to be higher at this stage as I'm only running 1440p right now.
     
  12. OCMunkee

    OCMunkee Member

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    I'm always cautious with cheap adapters for power, but I suppose if it's powering an actual SATA device it's pretty low power these days. Let me know if you change your mind on the press-fit SATA plugs (originally from Silverstone PSU cable)
     
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  13. OP
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    argent

    argent Member

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    Much appreciated mate. The cable wasn’t “cheap” lol as it cost me $10. I did check the ‘stiffness’ of the connectors as that usually is a hood sign of the build quality. Tight and rigid connector pins usually indicate a better quality construction on the moles side. I’ve had some shocker moles cable adaptors in the past there I couldn’t even plug it in right because the pin kept shifting about as they were so loose!
     
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