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Best 3d printer for teenager?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Agg, Dec 19, 2021.

  1. dave_dave_dave

    dave_dave_dave Member

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    I own a Prusa MK3S+. If i was to do it again or had a kid, Prusa Mini+ Kit.
     
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  2. bradrogers

    bradrogers Member

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    Another fan of the Ender 3 here. The setup process / the process of bolting on upgrades has been fun. It shouldn't be too difficult for him with the massive community support around it. The best thing is once he's done a mod or two, or even just put it together, he'll know his way around diagnosing a fault.

    And the cost you can get them at is a great price if you're concerned he'll get bored of it quickly. If he doesn't, there's a whole world of mods out there for it (OctoPrint, BL touch, 32 bit / silent boards to name a few). Personally I find this half the fun of owning an Ender 3.

    If he's getting into 3D printing, maybe suss out maker spaces? Where are you based these days? I know of RoboDino in Sydney and I think there's a Jaycar in the city that has maker workshops and such. Might be a good cheap way to give him a taste of 3D printing before committing to any major spending. I dabbled with 3D printers briefly at MakeHackVoid before I opened my wallet! :D
     
  3. Franc

    Franc Member

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    Bit late to discussion but another vote for Ender 3. Its cheap enough that its not a huge investment if you dont end up using it but good enough to produce nice prints and has basic safety precautions setup which not all printers sadly have.

    Vacuum chamber? Im not sure you mean what you think you mean - do you mean a vacuum bag?. Most practical/easy way to store is to put a bunch of filaments in a sealed tub with dessicant if you are really worried or using some really hydroscopic filaments.

    Personally, I have printed from a few rolls of ~8 year old PLA with minimal problems (I have $1000 of filaments on hand and some are a bit old most are just stored on shelves) though you can always get brittle filament (I have had new filament arrive very brittle).. I do have a filament dryer when I get a crappy bunch of filaments and that can help, though I never print stuff like nylon anyway so dont worry hugely.

    Worth it if you know you will be using it and your prepared to spend a premium if you are buying one for the first time, I wouldn't recommend going with the premium option.
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Agg

    Agg Lord of the Pings

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    To update this thread - we did get the Ender 3 V2 and have printed lots of interesting things. Currently we have a weird issue where we can't level the bed because we run out of adjustment before it gets level. I think this is related to how difficult it is to get prints off the glass bed at the end. We need to really put some force into it or attack with the little spatula thing, which means we end up needing to re-level the bed before every print. But even if we follow the instructions and do "auto home" first, having set the winding adjusters to the middle or either end of their travel, we still end up running out of adjustment before it's level. Strange. I'll have another proper look at it this weekend.. in the meantime Mr 15yo has bought himself a GTX1660 Super and is now spending most of his time playing Rust with friends.
     
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  5. Elmf

    Elmf Member

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    Try Z-Axis compensation Agg, it might be going to too low especially on bottom layer thus the sticking. I'm a noob but that's what was wrong with mine (but the reverse problem - not sticking).
     
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  6. ernie

    ernie Member

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    Has your Z limit switch moved?



    - Ernie.
     
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  7. m3k

    m3k Member

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    if u can get a magnetic spring steel removable sheet you wont need to use a spatula to remove parts
     
  8. Current

    Current Member

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    Have you tried glue stick or hair spray upon the glass bed ? works well for me :)
     
  9. ir0nhide

    ir0nhide Member

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    Learning how to model things for yourself is the key; I taught myself Fusion360 and the ability to create complex bodies out of thin air was worth the cost of the printer.

    +1 for glue stick; provides enough stickiness and enough of a layer in between the print and the glass to let it release.

    Spring steel sheets are much better in the long run though.
     

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