Build Diary: Subwoofer

Discussion in 'Audio Visual' started by MEX, Sep 1, 2008.

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  1. MEX

    MEX Member

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    Greetings all,
    it has been a long time since I have posted on these forums, last serious thread would of been back wen I was looking at building cpu waterblocks. Anyway I have a few projects in the works but I have had a lack of motivation in recent times "cough, cough WoW" to work on them. Hence i thought I would take on the idea some people have had in the past and that is to run a build diary online. The idea being that you always have in the back of your mind, the thought that subscribers are waiting to see how the work is going and that will be my motivator to keep things rolling. :) So anyway hope it works and on with the build !

    As in the title first project to complete is the new sub. This mainly came about cos Jaycar dropped there price on there 350Watt RMS Subwoofer Amplifier. Which just happened to be one of the modules you can use in the Critical Q Sub Project. So with the ball rolling I took the plunge and ordered a Peerless 830500 this being a 12" Sub driver with one of its main design goals being a closed box arrangement there is plenty of information in the Critical Q Sub link i provided before about this driver and why it is so great for the task at hand. Unfortunately Digital Megahouse was out of stock, my order was placed almost a month ago but, there shipment is due in this week i believe so with a bit of luck customs wont hold them up to long and i will have my product within the next fortnight :thumbup:. This hasen't stopped work being started on the project though.

    My inspiration for the look of the sub came from this pick i found while google'ing one day. I liked it initially due to the simple but elegant look and the fact it was quite simple in construction, but more so is that i get the best of both worlds, piano black finish to match my LSK M4's and a nice timber highlight to match it into a future project ;).

    [​IMG]

    So there you have it the ground work so far work has begun and i will be adding picks shortly of the initial design stage and first stages of construction.

    Update first stage of pics !
    You can click on any of these for a larger view.
    Thanks to UGbox for there image hosting. :thumbup:

    Initial planning and design
    [​IMG]

    First 3 panels cut (Front, center brace, rear amp panel)
    [​IMG]

    After realizing that i had cut the panels 30mm to wide i had to cut them down this was the first stage of the process i removed the 30mm from the center of the brace due to the side supports ending up to thin if i took it off the sides.
    [​IMG]

    Middle brace clamped and glued left to sit overnight
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    Before and after pic of the routed edges done to the front and back panels to aid assembly later. This process was done with a 20mm cutter and a depth gauge that you can see bolted to the side. (gold in color)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Routing the rebate for the driver took longer than expected as i had to mock up some kind of jig to rout a circular pattern i eventually came up with this idea. I drilled a center hole just the right size to fit a 6mm shank screwdriver down snug i then secured some 1mm steel wire to the router and wrapped it 2-3 times round the shank. I found i could alter the cut distance quite fast with a bit of trial and error, by pulling and winding the screwdriver at the same time to either coil or uncoil the wire to and from the screwdriver. The whole process sounds cumbersome but in practice was quite strait forward, fast and precise. This part was done with a smaller bit 10mm as I find it easier to work with wen doing full width cuts.
    [​IMG]

    The second stage of cut for the driver, this time i used a 6mm bit. I dropped down a size again as i wanted to reduce the amount of material i had to remove to simply cut though and i chose the six mill cos its the smallest cutter i have with 2 cutting surfaces, and the fact that its is the same size as the shank so i can go quite deep with this one.
    [​IMG]

    Final pic of this stage with only a slither of material left i was able to just give it a sharp knock with the base of my fist and it broke lose. After that it was just a matter of breaking of the last bits left over and giving it a quick sand.
    [​IMG]

    Next part was to build the inner box that the amp sits in. In this pic i was first doing a test fit and secondly taking measurements for the u-shape panel to go over it.
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    Test fit the fresh cut panels. Like a glove :D
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    Quick pic of the glued/screwed panels ready to be attached to the rear panel.
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    Clamped and pre-drilled to back panel.
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    Completed back panel.
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    Finally: A mock up of the arrangement of the panels to give you some idea of how it all go's together.
    [​IMG]

    Well that's the progress so far i don't have a huge amount of time to work on this during the week so updates will be small at best until next weekend. :)

    Cheers
    Luke
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2008
  2. occxlr8ed

    occxlr8ed Member

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    Nice, i've always wanted to make my own sub, just not confident enough with building it myself lol. Only thing wood i've made in my life was in year 10 tech, i made a table ahha.

    How much all your materials costed so far?
     
  3. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    total cost so far:

    Driver $300
    Amp $200
    Pine + MDF ~ $50
    Boring Bit (used later in build) $15
    Grill kit from LSK (construction later in build) $20

    $585 so far

    whole project shouldn't cost more than $650 depending on how much finishing paint/stain ends up costing. keeping in mind this sub will compare to shop subs in the $1500 - $2000 bracket

    My old diy sub cost ~ $150 to make but it was thrown together with stuff i had sitting round the house and the driver was much cheaper $130ish still a good driver by peerless but nothing in comparence to the new one i am using. also the old sub ran off one of the channels on my Rotel power amp something i wanted to avoid this time plus i need the channel back to run future center channel.

    I'll post a pic of the old sub a bit later on :).

    Cheers
    Luke
     
  4. occxlr8ed

    occxlr8ed Member

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    Indeed, being why i'm interested in making one lol. I got the funds, now i just need someone to make it for me :p

    Is it actually hard? For a first timer with limited wood making experience? lol.

    Oh and are those jaycar amps still available?

    Cheers.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    as far as i am aware the jaycar amps are still available for how much longer i don't know as i believe there is a new model coming out that will replace this one.

    construction wise and how difficult it is, for me this stuff is very easy and for building a basic box that will do what i am doing without looking any good all you need is a hand saw glue some screws a drill and that's about it.

    to make it look decent your going to have to add sandpaper some kind of wood filler and paint to that list.

    To further improve the look add a router and a small bit kit to it and you can make just about anything.

    Luke
     
  6. Grimace22

    Grimace22 Member

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    luke your a hero in my eyes:) i bought a jaycar 350w for the same reason as you and have been wanting to build my own sub for probably a year lol, but same as you didnt have the motivation. Just got one question, im from perth aswell, and wondering where you got the mdf from? and are you going to build it the exact same way as that site?

    im thinking of using one of the xxls 4ohm instead of the 8ohm xls, got any reasons not too?
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2008
  7. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    i believe the xxls 4ohm is a car audio sub. most HT orientated speakers are 8ohm from what i have read.

    the pine i will be using i just got down @ bunnings the mdf i got from a local salvage guy the sheet which was roughly 3m x 1m cost $30 to buy a sheet that big new would be like $100

    cheers
    Luke
     
  8. Fishface

    Fishface Member

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    I have only just finished my Sub using the same XLS woofer last weekend.

    I used the Peerless XLS passive radiator as well although now I think I would have saved the money and just used the XLS woofer. There are explanations of the differences in the application note for the sub:

    http://www.d-s-t.com.au/data/Peerless/Peerless_XLS_12_inch_subwoofer.pdf

    There is a 4 Ohm version of this sub however it's low impedance at some frequencies means it will blow up a lot of plate amps. So I went for the 8 Ohm version.

    Now you have inspired me to take some pictures and start a thread about it!
     
  9. Grimace22

    Grimace22 Member

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    please do fishface:)
     
  10. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    the box volume would be the same but its shape is going to be a fair amount different also the internal design has been changed a little. Really the only important factor is i retain the box volume :)

    pictures are being uploaded now will have them up shortly.

    cheers
    Luke
     
  11. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    First post updated with pics, future pics will be posted in new replies.

    Cheers
    Luke
     
  12. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    Small update cleaned up the glued brace and cut the dressing timber for the front.

    Its a piece of pine 30x70x400mm later this will be stained not 100% sure on color yet.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    and i also purchased a new toy for future woodwork projects
    its a Makita 9910 belt sander 75mm belt. Had a quick play with it and safe to say its going to make light work of sanding the box down flat.
    [​IMG]

    mite be another small update this evening depends if i get time this arvo.

    Cheers
    Luke
     
  13. Grimace22

    Grimace22 Member

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    looking good and neat, any word on when the drivers arriving?
     
  14. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    unfortunately no, I did get a email saying that its in customs but haven't herd anything since :(

    Regards
    Luke
     
  15. dakiller

    dakiller (Oscillating & Impeding)

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    Pine? Couldn't you find a piece of KD hardwood at least for your highlight? Pine is so cheap and tacky, and while your going to a bit of trouble to get a fantastic finish, I feel that the pine will let it down some
     
  16. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    pine was chosen for the type of grain i can get in it. i think the end result will be quite nice.

    more updates coming tonight

    cheers
    Luke
     
  17. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    Argh so many interruptions last night one way and another didn't get a chance to update. Anyway here's the most recent work focusing on the control panel.

    First things first this is the control panel as it came and will be mounted in the end of the timber in this pic.
    [​IMG]

    This was followed by a quick sketch to work out depth of cuts and the clearance of the dials.
    [​IMG]

    I also did a very quick mock up to see how things will fit and look based on my sketch decisions.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once the planning was complete it was time to mark out the timber. I masked it all off to help protect it while machining it and also to aid in marking.
    [​IMG]

    First stage I drilled the holes for the back lights they are the ones you see offset to one side of the bore. I drilled these first as once I finished boring and routing it would leave a clean finish on the entry/exit of the hole. Second stage was to bore the holes with a 35mm spade bit shown below. Finally I drilled out the guide hole the spade bit creates with a 7mm drill to clear the mounting threads. Note the very fancy depth gauge :p (electrical tape wrapped around bit)
    [​IMG]

    Just before routing and 7mm center hole.
    [​IMG]

    Next up I routed out the back with a 6mm bit, went for the 6 again as its easy to free hand with on this timber. ( plus it was already in the chuck :p )
    [​IMG]

    Quick set of images wen I was test fitting.
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    [​IMG]

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    With the majority of the work completed on the control mounting, I now had to clearance behind it through the backing board. easy process which just involved using a led pencil to rub a template of my previous cutout and then flipping it to mark out the pattern on the MDF.
    [​IMG]

    15min later.
    [​IMG]

    Last job for this session was to first decide how/if i was going to mount the remote receiver. The end result was to mount the original plastic cover into the timber. After a quick test piece to confirm it could be done without damage to the timber (note: 1.5-2mm worth of timber left in some places), it was bored out and sanded to fit.
    [​IMG]



    All in all i think it came out quite nice still needs to have the edges beveled but i may leave that till its all mounted on the box and sanded to size.
    [​IMG]


    Cheers
    Luke
     
  18. BOR15

    BOR15 Member

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    I just got a pair of the same amps for my subs. They were available 4 weeks ago. Get them while you can as the new ones have a switching power supply.

    MEX i have had a look but can't see a port. Is it ported? If not you will need to seal the holes where you mounted the control gear as it will chuff when the sub is running.

    I know this because one of my subs had a small seal problem and i could hear it when it was running.

    Also, are you going to install a linkwitz transform circuit? Have a good read of this.

    Boris :thumbup:
     
  19. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    yes this is a sealed design as per the original specifications on the site. there will be a cover plate going over the back of the control panel made out of thinner mdf 16mm. Its also the sole reason i haven't made the sides yet as i was unsure of how big the cover box was going to be behind the controls. With some luck i will have this looking like a box before mon. On that note there should be some more updates tonight :thumbup:

    I had herd bout the circuit mentioned in the link you provided but its not something i wanted to get into this round. Reason being is the original design of this sub is already designed to be fairly flat down to 20Hz there was some modifications made to the amp as per his design. Maybe in a future project i will get a little more technical in the electronics department :D .

    What i was heading for this round though was basing the sub off a proven design and then making my focus the looks not so much having to worry about the sound. :)

    Regards
    Luke
     
  20. OP
    OP
    MEX

    MEX Member

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    Big update been so preoccupied lately haven't had enough free time to upload all these images !

    Anyway lots of work been completed everything is starting to take shape.

    First up though still got some fiddly bits to work out then its onto major assembly.

    Here just a quick job to lengthen the wires for the IR receiver.
    [​IMG]

    and the modified version.
    [​IMG]

    Routed out the back of the panel to fit the unit in.
    [​IMG]

    With everything in place on the front panel i decided to go check if everything still worked okay. lights and remote all functioning as normal.
    [​IMG]

    note: the modified led's, used to be (red off, green on) now a much nicer blue on :)
    [​IMG]

    with most of the work complete on the control panel the final stages of box internals were completed. That being the cover plate for the back of the control panel.
    [​IMG]

    and another showing how everything is mounting in the corner.
    [​IMG]

    i'll conclude this post there as that is the final stage before box assembly is done. As i now know all the measurements for internal waste and a final calculation can be done for box depth vs volume.

    Cheers
    Luke
     

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