Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by kot0005, Nov 24, 2011.
Like to see how those EX rad's perform
They perform pretty good
Silver coil, 95%silver, 5% copper bought it from a metal shop in melbourne CBD for $6, half a meter.
After a lot of struggle and getting a minor scratches on the rad (just the paint) I Figured that it wont fit on the top side of the case and the screws provided are not long enough, so I had to use 8 3.0-3.5mm screws to mount the fans to rad first and then use normal Fan mounting screws for the fans + rad.
Bleeding and leak testing:
Got a Dual Bitspower 30cm cold cathode Uv Tubes to go with the other UV stuff.
Cpu block assembly:
GPU to Res tubing...
more assembly trials:
Finished and running
TO Finished product.
With UV lights on
Lights off Shots:
The tubes kink a bit but i guess the 1/2 ID makes up for it? not sure Comment on the loop setup as well plx, its my 1st time.
Lo0p sequence is :
Res -> Pump->Bottom 54mm x 240mm Rad with Pull Fans->Gpu Block->Back 120mm x 35mm Rad with Push pull->Cpu block In-> Top 35.5mm x 240mm Rad with Push Fans-> Into Res.
I'm a tad lost for words.... + 1 on the effort For a first time effort, not to bad, does look like spaghetti though...
now post those temps up!!!
Temperatures (AMBIENT TEMP IS 21C) and
Fan setup: (refer previous post)
The back Rad Pull fan is always at 100%(1500 rpm) and Push fan is always at 400Rpm when the temp is below 35c and 1400Rpm at 45c.
I hooked all my bottom and top rad fans to the Chassis fan controll system.It has 1-6 speed settings.
Setting 1 (lowest fan speed) with my Storm trooper case fan controll buttons:
Bottom Rad has 2 Pull + 1 Push fans and top has 2 Push Fans.
ALL my Rads are 20FPI (around 25-28 Decibels at Full speed /Setting 6 not dead silent but its really quite and the sound is barely audible) its not even close to a Table fan on the lowest speed.
Pump Motor is always on setting 3 which reads as ~3333 RPM.
Here are the Idle temperatures: (Lowest Fan Speed/Setting 1)
For some reason I cant SS the load temperatures Running Fur mark burn in test. The ss Turns out to be a black screen but the temperatures on full load are a bit weird in regards to the fan speed.
ALL Temperatures are while running Both CPU and GPU stress Tools at the same time.
Load temperatures: (Lowest Fan speed after 10 Minutes)
Prime 95 ON i5 2500k @ 4.5175 Ghz @ 1.28V
Fur Mark 1920 x 1200p with 8 x MSAA, Dynamic Background( NFI what it is),Burn-in,Post Fx,Windowed Mode,2 GPU's.
GPU1: 99%/GPU2: 94%
Temps: 62C on CPU, 30C On Chipset/System.
48C on GPU1/45C on GPU2.
With Full Fan speed/Setting 6 After 10 Minutes:
GPU1: 47C/GPU2 :45C
Used something else and got the SS's to work.
Load Low Fan Speed/Setting 1:
Load Highest Fan Speed/Setting 6:
Let me know if the SS's are too big..
NOT MUCH OF A TEMP DIFF! AM CONFUSED!!!
Also Made a few mods..
Removed the G Force logo from the card and Sticked it on to the waterblock with a neopropane pad.
Cable sleeving attempt first time for the lolz..
Tried to stick the heat shrink with some Hot glue using my Glue gun but it got all messed up..
It's an attempt I guess :S
opened up my two PCI cables as well, the 6 pin ones but am not sure if I wana sleeve them cuz the 590 needs 8 pin PCI plugs and I cbf removing them..
Researched a bit about sleeving on these forums and decided to do it
The staple pin method worked out well for me to pull off the pins from the PCI plugs.
I have a second cable as a reference for the pins so nothing to worry about because I removed them all lol.
The Sleeve is UV blue bought 3 packs of them...
Once again the screenshots DOMINATE the screen!
Looking good mate. What's holding the pump in place? Double-sided tape? Something more permanent would be good! Also, does your case have a window? If so, can you take some (small) shots with it on?
Your temps look good, particularly the graphics card. The GPU temps weren't even when I installed my block as one wasn't making correct contact with the block. You definitely don't have this problem.
Nah I screwed it in with 2 screws, that duct tape is holding the thremocol that i used under the bracket.
Nah no window has a long side panel double layer mesh though. Would be nice if coolermaster released sidepanels for this with a window because its their flagship CM storm case.
oh and power switch on back side of the case for the UV tubes + the io panel
pffft bugger off. there is nothing wrong with Arctic Silver other then it being hard to spread
anyway good to see you got rid of that antec cooler
you might want to get some high purity silver - dont know how well that copper blend will work. This is the stuff you want
Nice work, looks good and runs relatively cool.
OT: I notice you have an MSI mobo, have you noticed anything odd about it's voltage control? My P55-GD65 stays at full voltage all the time as soon as you change anything in the tuning section, and with Load Line Calibration on the voltage goes UP when it's under load, and sits alot higher than the setting in bios eg: 1.34v set in bios, 1.38v idle 1.42v under load.
That's what LLC is meant to do. Depends what setting you have it on of course and what OC you have, but generally it adds a bit more volts to aid stability.
Not true, LLC should not over-volt your CPU beyond the specified vcore set in BIOS (within a small margin anyway). It simply reduces vdroop (ie voltage drop under load to a level significantly below the BIOS setting).
What the above is experiencing is crap and should not occur
Edit: i.e high level of LLC with a bios setting of 1.34v should result in say a 1.35v idle and 1.34v (or very close to) load.
Think if all LLC did was increase voltage, it would serve no function. You'd just set the bios setting higher as required..
Also - OP -> is that duct tape I see mounting that pump? gone a little ghetto there (love it)
Could use a few angled fittings to tidy up the tubing, also that res needs to be leveled off (its like looking at a crooked painting).
Great stuff though