[Build] VORON 3d Printer

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Azrael, Apr 20, 2016.

  1. Azrael

    Azrael Member

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    For a little while now i have been gearing up to replace my Prusa i3 with another printer that will be stored indoors. One of the big factors is WAF along with the safety for little hands being near it.

    After deciding on a CoreXY build i couldnt settle on the specific design, until a few weeks ago when russiancatfood/mzbot released the VORON to the public. I quickly settled on that for a variety of reasons, not least of which is the ease of enclosure and general minimalistic beauty of the build. This weekend im planning on building it from go to whoa, and here is the thread for documenting it.

    In the past I have put up extensive build threads on various forums, usually for race cars (such as the one you can see in the corner of the frame here). But for the VORON I thought i would do something different given that its not so much an engineering and design challenge, but just a build thread.


    If the video isnt working click here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGTgGM8xbFs

    Thats the first part of the build done. Just waiting on a parcel with the corner cubes and i can put the frame together. The other stages will be
    2. Mechanical
    3. Electrical
    4. Finishing touches

    Planning on a couple of little mods to the design, but they will come later.

    Also sorely missing my lathe and mill at this point. In the past i would have fed that 20mm T-slot in through the headstock and into a 4 jaw chuck, and simply parted it off on the lathe using a cutting disc mount. Sadly all that equipment is 800km away in a storage shed :(

    More on the VORON can be found here: https://github.com/mzbotreprap/VORON
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2016
  2. lionman

    lionman Member

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    Looking forward to this one.

    I've been thinking of building a CoreXY too. So many choices though.

    I like the design of the Voron too. I've gone as far as ordering some extrusion for the frame and some rods, pre-cut because I'm lazy. Just cheap stuff off Aliexpress, not sure if the quality will be good enough so I'm holding off until it arrives so I can assess from there.

    I might get some higher quality filament for the printed parts. Not sure yet. My i3 is still not quite ready to print them yet, I fiddle with it too much...
     
  3. OP
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    Azrael

    Azrael Member

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    Parcel with the corner cubes and a few other bits (ok it was a massive Shipito parcel) arrived this morning. Hoping that I can get enough time on the long weekend to get it all together :) Aiming for first prints on Monday.
     
  4. reflex898

    reflex898 Member

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    Been following the voron a lot since it's release as you know! I'm also in the process of working with a mate to get the corner cubes machined locally for easy access for any builders!
     
  5. OP
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    Azrael

    Azrael Member

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    You can already get them locally: http://www.makerstore.com.au/product/three-way-cube-corner-connector/

    I got mine from the US as i was already bringing a box of stuff over from the US via Shipito.
     
  6. OP
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    Azrael

    Azrael Member

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    Also in the box of bits from the US was my MIC6 build plate that i got from a US supplier because chasing suppliers here in Aus was a pain in the butt: "oh you want 6061 plate"...

    Anyway tonight i had an hour or so free after coming home from a meeting and decided to see if a plan that i have had in the back of my head would come to fruition.
    [​IMG]

    The recommended heater for the VORON is a stick on silicone rubber heater mat in AC voltages, which is then fed through an AC SSR to be controlled by the RAMPS. Now i dont mind AC stuff, but mixing AC and DC on a 3d printer just annoyed me slightly. Plus the silicone heater mats dont tend to work particularly well unless you spend a motza on them. I had this MK3 heated bed lying around as it had a damaged ear from shipping and so couldnt be leveled properly on my Prusa.

    So i decided i would try using a standard MK3 heated bed as the heater for the VORON. Thats the standard 230mm MIC6 bed underneath with four tapped M3 holes in it to mount the bed to. Also planning on using either a sheet of 3M mounting tape (same as the PEI stuff) to add adhesion, or a thin smear of silver thermal adhesive to remove some of the stress from the bolts and also to increase thermal conduction.

    There is a bolt missing from the damaged corner of the bed, but I'm planning on cutting the broken piece of metal out and attaching the bed to that corner as well using a wider custom washer.

    Will see how it goes. But hoping it will be a viable alternative. Also if the threads fail in the aluminium plate i was thinking of drilling through and using neatly countersunk M3 taper head bolts under the PEI to bolt the heated bed on. Its also touch and go for the spring mounts, but should be able to squeeze them in. For a bigger bed size it would be a cake walk.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2016
  7. oRiCLe

    oRiCLe Member

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    looking good, where did you source your 2020 frame and corner pieces from?

    I jus upgraded to the same Aluminium heat beds for auto homing, they are good but i did notice they take a bit longer to heat (12V) than the PCB one I was using, are you planning on fixing it to the base plate to heat that also? I was thinking of using some cork or similar to retain the heat on the underside of it...
     
  8. OP
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    Azrael

    Azrael Member

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    2020 frame was from Aurarum, and the cubes from Openbuilds in the US via Amazon.

    TBH if i was doing it again i would buy precut from Misumi US and the cubes from Openbuilds and get them shipping consolidated here. The Misumi T-slot I think is a better thing than the Aurarum extrusions.
     
  9. kjparker

    kjparker Member

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    fyi, looks like the video in the first post is broken...
     
  10. OP
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    Azrael

    Azrael Member

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  11. diarx

    diarx Member

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    The slow motion angle grinder was a nice touch - but I want thermal imaging on the next one :lol:
     
  12. lionman

    lionman Member

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    My t slot just arrived and so I whipped up my cube. Couldn't help myself.

    Can I post some pics in this thread?
     
  13. OP
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    Azrael

    Azrael Member

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    I built my cube today as well, after having to modify the bolts to hold it together because the OpenBuilds cubes were machined fairly poorly.
    [​IMG]

    Still its together and as square as reasonably possible:
    [​IMG]

    Also sure, post away.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2016
  14. lionman

    lionman Member

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    Nice, looks good in all black.

    I'm not using the corner cubes, just standard t slot corner joins.

    [​IMG]Voron Frame by Nick England, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Voron Frame-2 by Nick England, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Voron Frame-3 by Nick England, on Flickr

    Stoked with the quality. Was just over $100 for the frame which I think is reasonable.

    Planning on adding some feet along the lines of this to the base http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1508003 and similar cubes to the top.

    I'm not sure if the t slot joiners I have used will foul any of the belt system or not. I think its going to be close.
     
  15. underskore

    underskore Member

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    Pretty good video, the slow-mo sparks were a great touch:thumbup:

    I know a water/laser cutting joint in the south east that stocks one of the 6xxx series as well as the 5xxx thats generally supplied. It could be 6061 but I'm not certain (even though I did order some last week)
     
  16. Ch4iS

    Ch4iS Member

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    ATP-5 is excellent stuff if you need dead flat aluminium, I buy mine from Calmaluminium it is a 5083 grade but I don't see why it would be an issue

    http://calmaluminium.com.au/Documents/ATP-5.pdf


    When you post youtube videos only use the video code, basically the part after v= , it won't work if you use the whole URL.
     
  17. OP
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    Azrael

    Azrael Member

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    Ah you are going to have serious issues with the Voron in that frame. The motor and idler mounts will foul at the top, and the PSU, LCD and RAMPS box will foul at the bottom.
    Would recommend getting the corner cubes, and some caustic soda if you want silver ones.

    Yeah, will be standard rolled plate, not cast plate.

    ATP5 would be just as good as MIC6 for this purpose, the difference in alloy is minimal when it comes to the tolerances and temperatures of 3D printing.
    I didnt try Calm, but after being given the run around by another couple of retailers i just gave up. In the end it cost me about $20 to buy it through the US supplier and they cut to size and posted without me having to chase suppliers up. Much much better service than trekking out to Dandenong to find out that the piece of plate that was cut for me was 6000 series rolled and already had a warp in it.

    As for the video, it was working when I posted it. The Youtube tag allows for both the full URL and the short code.
     
  18. Ch4iS

    Ch4iS Member

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    The video at the time was a dead link to me, from a post by Agg a few months back if I remember correctly you needed to use the video code only in youtube VB tags.

    Ie. " frameborder="0" allowfullscreen>
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
  19. OP
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    Azrael

    Azrael Member

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    In lieu of the next video here is a parts glory shot. Stupid GoPro decided to blink as if it was recording but record about 15s and then stop.
    See if you can spot the missing parts...

    [​IMG]
     
  20. dred0r

    dred0r Member

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    My 2nd printer will be a dual extruder corexy, was just pricing up a different one which uses vslot and wheels for the x/y axis.
    Then I saw a fair bit of mention about the Voron, and i'm somewhat impressed.
    I wonder how it would scale up to a 300x300 build volume, and eclosed.

    Guess I need to throw it into cad and see how it comes up.


    Any idea ball park on costings?
     

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