Building a small home theatre room

Discussion in 'Audio Visual' started by whatdoesthisdo, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. FuzwaldQO

    FuzwaldQO Member

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    Personally I don't see the point of a dedicated HT room if you aren't going to use a projector lol. But you said it was a small room, so I guess you could look at it this way... if you can fit a 110" or bigger screen on your front wall I'd go for a projector. If you can't then the extra size won't really be enough to justify it, and just get as big a TV as you can. That's not a rule btw, just my opinion. But it might help you work out some stuff.

    I love the big screen feel of the projector and screen. I don't think a TV creates the magic anywhere near as well. Even having the room dark for the screen helps with the feels. But the main thing is the size (that's what she said). It's so much more immersive when its a big screen.
     
  2. zeggie

    zeggie Member

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    Just whatever you do, if you go the projector route, don't buy the screen immediately. Buy and mount the projector. Calibrate to the screen size on your wall that is big enough and comfortable for your viewing distance. THEN buy a screen to suit that size.
     
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  3. Zee

    Zee Member

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    That'll be because you've probably never seen a good one. You probably don't want to pay for a good one, either.

    A proper 4k projector will be at least $8k, though I'd probably lean towards a JVC, and a proper 4K JVC (not "4k compatible" or whatever bullshit word marketers use to pretend a 1080P panel is actually 4K) will cost a fair bit more.

    As OLED tech progresses, and "wallpaper" screens, and soon - roll up screens become a thing, and the sizes increase, and prices decrease, projector are going to be less and less attractive. Though, for now, it is still the only game in town for a truly large screen (100"+).

    Personally, I'm in the Yamaha camp, but you'll get good results with with Yamaha, Denon and Marantz - I'd stay clear of Onkyo/Integra, as they tend to be rather unreliable.

    Z...
     
  4. Zee

    Zee Member

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    Or... Ask a pro... Because we do that all the time. I'd go broke if I bought screen and installed the screen after installing the projector on every HT job...

    I know there are at least 3 or 4 of us that have experience in custom AV that frequent this part of the forum, and it's easy enough to Google "screen size for room". A quick check of projector central, or the manual for the projectors being considered will also tell you where they should sit for said screen size, and, if the projector will even give you the screen size you want with the space you have.

    Z...
     
  5. dakiller

    dakiller (Oscillating & Impeding)

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    First picture, you have a little dogleg corner in the wall, why is you partition a foot away from that corner and not in line with it?

    Put double doors to the room from the hall.

    stuff as much insulation as you can into the partition wall for soundproofing.

    Paint it like a proper HT room, dark. 18% or middle grey is shade that I've heard those in the projection business refer to the darkness the walls should be. I wouldn't go just flat grey, but the colour should be as dark as middle grey
     
  6. OP
    OP
    whatdoesthisdo

    whatdoesthisdo Member

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    I agree, we will definitely be painting the entire room with blacks and grays.

    Awesome thanks for the input and you are quite right I have never seen a good one in action, in a dark room however I don't think I can justify spending 8k lol.

    We are renovating the entire house so it may have to be a tv to begin with and then move to projectors in the years to come. Is there anything I should be installing now in case I want to upgrade later?


    All good points and will do. Partitioned wall has already been insulated but I am thinking about doing a "hidden" door from the hall way.

    As for the dogleg, I think pics will explain it better.

    Yellow = Walls that will be completely removed
    Green = Hidden door to media room
    Red = Window (which you can see behind me in first pic) which will be bricked up

    upload_2019-3-14_11-32-49.png

    This is the what we are trying to achieve...

    upload_2019-3-14_11-36-17.png
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
  7. dakiller

    dakiller (Oscillating & Impeding)

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    Makes sense, I like the new layout.
     
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  8. zeggie

    zeggie Member

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    Or they could save $100-1000s of dollars by not using a pro, by simply measuring the projected size and buying a screen accordingly? It's only a home install after all. OP won't "go broke" by doing it intelligently in 2 steps.
     
  9. bart5986

    bart5986 Member

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    I would definitely use a projector unless you want to buy a huge OLED.

    a 1080p projector looks great as long as you aren't super close, I think you could get away with using one of those pixel shifting 4k's that are very cheap (never used one), but it depends on your budget, I'm unsure of the real value of a real 4k projector.

    The most important thing about projectors for me is noise and how the blacks outside of the actual image look (for when your projector is not projector straight forward). Sometimes this can break the immersion factor.
     
  10. Zee

    Zee Member

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    My point was... There are 3 or 4 of us here. Ask. Absolutely ask a pro, and if it costs, then it is worth it because you won't screw it up - because, believe me, nothing hurts your hip pocket more than fixing a screw up.

    Regardless, I'm always happy to give advice for free on these forums, as are the others, as I have seen.

    Z...
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
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  11. Zee

    Zee Member

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    Make sure you have a good centrally located distribution point for network and coax (ie - fta and Fox - remember, fox is going satellite, you'll need 2 runs for Fox, and one for FTA.) I'd be running at least 2 Cat6 to every room, 3-4 where there are likely to be TV's and other gear that is networked. Wireless is not the solution, hard wired for anything that never moves, leave wifi for your devices.

    Work out where your AV gear will go, and I'd probably run a fibre optic HDMI for the projector into the ceiling space. Run 2-3 Cat 6 cables from the AV equipment location to the projector.

    Also run a 2 x Cat6 from AV location to TV location, on top of from your network cabinet location.

    Also, work out if you want in wall/in ceiling speakers.

    Now having said all that, honestly, if you're getting a TV now, chances are the upgrade will be a bigger TV, but wiring to allow for a projector now is cheaper than having to cut, patch & paint later.

    I'll add more later, I need to eat.

    Z...
     
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  12. Holdenkicks

    Holdenkicks Member

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    most good projectors will do 120" 16:9 image with a distance to lens (aka throw distance) of 3700mm or more. If its between 3550-3700mm, you need to double check. If its 3400-3600 mm throw distance, use 110". if it 3200-3400mm, use 100". My assumption here is that you are putting the projector right at the back of the room and want to get as big a picture as possible without overdoing it.
     
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  13. Sphinx2000

    Sphinx2000 Member

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    ^^ this. Do your homework. I have a 120" fixed/stretched screen with projector at 3.8m throw and hung at a height of 2.8m, works well and sharp.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2019
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  14. Zee

    Zee Member

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    Remember - throw is from the lens. Keep that in mind for calculations, also, you'll want ~50-100mm from the back of the projector to the wall. Though, if you have built in cabinets in the room behind where the projector goes, you could always sit it in there, and your wall is pretty much where the lens is.

    Z...
     
  15. Tinian

    Tinian Member

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    My parents had both. They'd watch the TV for practically everything until a big sporting event was on and people piled into the room, then the screen came down from the roof as did the projector. The screen would be just in front of the TV, but much bigger in size.

    Even just for that, it was awesome.
     
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  16. OP
    OP
    whatdoesthisdo

    whatdoesthisdo Member

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    You know what, this probably where I am going to struggle the most. I don't even know what sort of equipment I need to allow for nowadays. I am so out of the loop. The room is not big, so really not sure where to build in the av equip enclosure or how big it needs to be.

    I want the room to be a dedicated theater room with the possibility of using it with non obtrusive VR down the track. But I certainly don't want to make design decisions that could limited the potential. In saying that I am have no problem knocking down walls and rebuilding others, in fact I find it quite relaxing lol.
     
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  17. Sphinx2000

    Sphinx2000 Member

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    Depends on what you need. Minimum would be: a Surround Sound Amp with video switching HDMI + Smart DVR/Tuner. Optional HTPC/Laptop, Blu-ray, Consoles, etc.
    These can be in a corner somewhere or front and center under screen, etc - it's up to you. But the cabling and power will need to be planned in advance.

    Ideally you would want to run cabling for video, network, front and rear speakers, VR sensors etc in the walls (and roof space) to avoid cables running around the edge of the floor - but it's up to you.
    All you need for the projector is it's own power and HDMI back to the Amp, it handles the rest. Avoid streaming anything over wifi and go for fixed data cabling instead - you will thank me later.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
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  18. pH@tTm@N

    pH@tTm@N Member

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    Oh, if you use couch risers like shown, make that space do work for you. Massive subwoofer boxes :)

    Well that is what I would do, but I am a basshead.
     
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  19. OP
    OP
    whatdoesthisdo

    whatdoesthisdo Member

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    Yeah I pretty much need everything lol. Roof spaces is fine, everything is very easy to get at but the walls will be the vital ones as it is easy to do it now than later.


    Yeah saw here that a guy was using sub's instead of asskickers. Anyone tried this, looks interesting and the feedback from the rest of thread looked promising.

    Sorry for the crude drawing but I am thinking this will be the layout but I have two questions.

    1. I saw a guy make a console slot in his riser, is that where a console would need to go or could it be up front with the rest of the av equip?
    2. If I put in a HTPC, can it be up the front as well or does it need to be closer to the couches?
    upload_2019-3-17_10-9-1.png
     
  20. Zee

    Zee Member

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    You're missing a centre speaker, and subs at the front of the room.

    HTPC can be wherever you like - the only things that really have fixed positions are items like screen, TV, projector and speakers. I've done jobs where the AV rack was in another room, and jobs where the AV gear was in a cabinet under the TV, or behind the couch... It doesn't matter. Figure out where *you* want the gear, then cable to allow for it.

    Generally, the front is easy, as it makes cabling to the TV easy, the front speakers can have the cabinets designed around them (if you want them hidden), and it makes it easy for old school IR remotes to work if you have glass doors, or perforated grills.

    In terms of not knowing about gear - it's pretty standard - the room is small, so 5.1.2 (5.1 Atmos) is plenty, I like to run 4 core 14awg cable generally, but so long as you buy decent cable, all is good. All things come back tot he AV receiver - HDMI, speaker cables, sub etc. I'd suggest keeping your other gear where the receiver as.

    For a HTPC, tend to just build a NUC and run install Librelec, very fast, easy, and plays any file you throw at it (I have ripped all my BD's uncompressed to a NAS, and play my movies from there). Also, Kodi can be controlled via IP, so you can either get one of the Kodi controller apps, or you can integrated it with most of the well known control systems (RTI, Savant, C4 etc), and most likely the home brew ones as well.

    Z...
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
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