Ok here goes. Never really done anything like this DSLR's are used by many as a main imaging camera when doing astrophotgraphy, whether it be with a telescope or a lens. Beginners to expert amateurs. They appeal because they can be used in 3 distinct ways. Why DSLR? 1: Deep Sky imaging. DSLR's are great at doing long exposure photography, 20minute exposures at a time or more no problem. This allows time for light from Deep Sky objects, like Galaxies, Nebulae and Star Clusters to hit the sensor and be recorded. 2: Planetary Imaging. Connect a DSLR up to a telescope, and you have got a relatively good planetary imaging camera. 3: Terrestrial Imaging. The thing is. All dedicated astrophotography cameras can not do all three of those things. Deep sky cameras start at 1000$ and go higher. Planetary cams start at ~300$ (for one that is acceptable). DSLR's are the only option when wanting a versatile way to image the night sky and at daytime. Software Support This is especially true for the Canon EOS series of cameras. The 600D cost me $400 used, and has been my main imaging camera every since. I had a Nikon D7100, a better camera, but Nikon does not have the software support for Planetary imaging. Canon has software support in abundance for astro-imaging, with the main one being BackyardEOS, allowing you to control your camera from your computer for a number of astrophotography tasks. Allowing for custom length bulb exposures and ISO levels, capture plans that allow your camera to image all night, and a planetary imaging function. Along with this functionality, it saves the RAW .cr2 files from the camera onto the computer to a folder of your choice and with the objects name! Planetary Imaging That last point is important and is the main reason that I moved from the Nikon camp. Heres the thing. Planets are small in the sky, when imaging them, they only take a small amount of pixels on the sensor, and it has to be done in a video so that the software can separate the bad frames from the good because of the atmospheric distortions. However taking a 1080p video off the camera is absolutely horrible. It is taking the entire imaging sensor of 5184x3456 pixels and down-sampling them to 1920x1080. In the process, all of the fine detail of the planet is basically lost. To remedy this, BackyardEOS capture the live view signal from the camera at 1024x680. It then zooms in the live view 5x to achieve a 1:1 pixel ratio from the sensor to the video by only using the central 1024x680 pixels. This allows for amazing results with even smaller scopes comparable to dedicated planetary cameras. BackyardNIKON does not yet have this capability. Modding When imaging deep space objects like the famous "Orion Nebula", or the amazing object only viable in the southern hemisphere, the "Carina Nebula", unmodified DSLR's have trouble capturing the red "Hydrogen Alpha" wavelengths of light. Canon by standard blocks 75% of this light with filters to keep daylight imaging in correct colour balance. Removing these filters is risky as a DIY job, but can be done by professionals for ~200$. Once removed, exposures of 5minutes will equal the amount of red H-alpha light of a 20minute exposure! Allowing for much more information to be captured before star trails start to appear. To keep the autofocus in place, another clear piece of glass is added (Baader Filter), and the only effect for daylight photography is a slight colour imbalance that can easily be fixed with custom white balance. Graph showing the colour wavelength responses An example with a Baader filter to pull for H-Alpha from the famous Carina Nebula Cold finger, or Peltier cooling is basically a cooler that works much like a CPU cooler to cool the sensor down whilst imaging. I am yet to find out how it cools it to negative celcius temperatures, but i'm getting to it! Bit overkill, but the general idea Noise Comparison Couple the sensor mod with a "Cold Finger" cooling mod to cool the sensor to -10Celsius or more! Therefore, reducing noise from long exposures, you have a very capable imaging camera, comparable to dedicated CCD imager, with the advantage of being able to be attached to lens like the 50mm f/1.4 for colour rich wide-field images. Results Keep in mind that I am only 16, so 6D's and EQ8 mounts are out of the question! I have to do this on a shoestring budget! Ok. Now keep in mind that astrophotography is not cheap. The mount that I use limits me to widefield work up to 300mm. My mount is simply not accurate enough to Polar align and track as well as some of the more expensive mounts that I hope to own soon. The camera is mounted on a piece of wood that I fashioned to hold the camera and the guidescope steady whilst imaging. The guidescope is a small telescope that watches a star and observes its movement, when it moves, it sends instructions to the telescope mount to compensate for the drift, allowing exposures 5x longer than without. I own a Nexstar 4/5SE mount, that is only intend to really be used as a visual mount. It is computerized and slightly modded to allow for a more accurate alignment Images where wayyyy to large off imgur to insert directly, so you'll have to use the links. http://i.imgur.com/TwXxBJW.jpg JupiterThis is a comparison image of the 600D compared to a bad planetary imaging camera. Images of the 600D's quality with such a small scope are usually only achieved with scopes larger than 6inches, this was taken with a 4inch MAK Cassegrain. http://i.imgur.com/4fbmvGg.jpgAndromeda Galaxy This was done before I had my guidescope or knew how to equatorially align the mount, so these where done with 30second exposures. I would now be able to achieve 10minute exposures on this object when it comes back around it summer. http://i.imgur.com/iuExOle.jpgMessier 42, the Orion Nebula The great Orion Nebula is visible with the naked eye as the sword of Orion the hunter, or the handle of the saucepan for us Aussies! Like I said earlier, if I had modded my camera before taking this image, most of the background would be filled with interstellar dust that just looks awesome! http://i.imgur.com/avHEyJy.jpg The Centre of our Milky Way Galaxy Taken with the autoguider, and taken @100mm. This image took 6 hours to take, and that allowed for more of the red H-alpha gas to show up once I pulled it out of the DATA. http://i.imgur.com/XFKGy4g.jpg My Favourite, The Southern Cross This was another image that I took at the same place that I took most of my images, on a farm outside of Toowoomba. The mighty southern cross was high in the sky. This was done with 10minute exposures with the 600D piggy backed on the telescope before I made the wooden saddle. I put this one up on reddit and got to the front page and got 1.3 Million views! Conclusion The 600D is an amazingly versatile camera for use in astrophotography for the money, being an all round good investment. The software support is unparalleled by other camera manufactures and can easily match the results of dedicated Planetary webcams and Cooled CCD DSO imagers once modified. For the price, a 600D is the camera of choice for versatility in the amazing hobby of Astrophotography!