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Car audio system. New and old parts. Critique

Discussion in 'Audio Visual' started by shane41, Jan 13, 2024.

  1. shane41

    shane41 Member

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    IF in wrong place moderator please move
    I have some thoughts on a basic system. Not heavy low thunderous bass :Paranoid: No shaking my car to bits :p

    Haves.
    _______
    Basic Kenwood head unit. Has DSP. 3x line levels out. CD player
    4 gauge cables etc. High quality rca. 1/2 Farad cap somewhere? Bought 20 years ago :shock::Paranoid: lol I know
    Amps? I will give up on finding those. Too hard basket.
    OK quality speakers MB quart. Boston etc. 10" woofers.
    Sound deadening. Go OK at installing equipment. Adept

    Have nots
    _________
    Quality amp for sound? Real valve, class A or AB types. Heavy spl not necessary
    For bass. Stinger Audio MT1000.1
    Liked the amp dyno video on this one. High efficiency 4 and 2 ohm

    Not really sure on best amps and capacitors these days. And the ratings. Still window shopping
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    I'm checking this out. 17 min in looks as home amps
     
  3. Stooge007

    Stooge007 Member

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    what's the budget???
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Atm about $400 per stereo amp. $400 on a mono block. $150 capacitor
    Bought a cheapy 4 channel. Could arrive this week. So if is sounds like rubbish it can do rear speaker duties later.

    High end amps, class AB $600-1000. They have to wait
     
  5. Stooge007

    Stooge007 Member

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    you don't need a cap, just upgrade your earth wiring under the bonnet

    are the MB Quart/Boston speakers a split/component set or coaxials? you want splits in the front doors at least

    what woofers have you got?

    how much boot space are you willing to sacrifice for a sub box?

    there are some good bargains to be had on 2nd hand gear, but obv there's no warranty and the things could let out the magic smoke soon after purchase
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Some of the gear is from 20 years ago. Packed in boxes. Quart are splits. I may have 3 sets. Varied.
    Infinity and Kef gear. Some Sony Nakamichi other us amps. To find. Audio control eq stuff + others
    Boston 8's Pro 10.4's iirc Soundstream 10's too. Yeah caps are necessary. Looking at the d class amp ones. Pulling over 800 watt 2 ohm

    I did fit this stuff back in the day. Got old and cranky :lol:
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Been enjoying watching this chaps videos. He is very funny :D
    Very informative on the spec and what the manufacturers rate. 10 gazillion watts lol


     
  8. BIG DWIFTER

    BIG DWIFTER Member

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    You don't need caps with modern class d amps.

    I've got a system drawing 1400w RMS at times, it definitely doesn't need a capacitor.

    An older inefficient system with inadequate wiring/inefficient amps will.

    Amps are in the 90% and above efficiency these days, if you're wiring is good you'll be fine, it'll be consistent power 100% of the time.

    Williston is the man for for amps. The numbers don't lie, and he has experience with what sounds good.
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    I fitted car radios back in the day. lol as far back as HR holdens :Paranoid: taking the big radio out.
    You had to then cut the metal in the dash.
    Cars I did not like. Volvo's, then early fords with fibreglass under the rear parcel shelves :thumbdn:
    ______

    I've had some very big systems back in the day. 15" earthquake subs in my Torana.
    This is when car sound was taking off. The start :thumbup: Before any experts were around.
     
  10. BIG DWIFTER

    BIG DWIFTER Member

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    We all had to use class a/b amps and inefficient crap.

    The high end was better though, no doubt.

    Times have changed, unless you are going all out for some sort of competition build you will be going class d...

    ...it won't need to be big. An amp the size of an a4 sheet of paper will put out more power with far less distortion and efficiency than an old 2 metre long "spl champ" class a/b.

    I'd say the older crew from the auto salon and spl days were the experts...but they are gone like the dinosaur.
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Not going to be breaking any records with budget amps. Here's the start in pic. A simple 4 channel
    I can upgrade it later. Just in that job fitting, I was so sick of it :thumbdn: 20 years later I feel like doing my own sound system again :lol:

    Small steps my man. I know where my boston pro 10's are. So I'll hunt down a subwoofer amp shortly. Bash the shit out of my passenger :D hehe

    P1170120.JPG
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Dinosaur here :( Did all that custom stuff for customers. They'd go to sound offs bring back big tropheys
    Yeah drove my health into the ground. Demand on my labour
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    9 minutes in

     
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  14. BIG DWIFTER

    BIG DWIFTER Member

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    That's the type of system you're building?
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Not money spent like that lol 10x of everything. :shock::Paranoid:
    ______________________________________________

    Where I am up to atm. Some orders placed. Front to back in arrangement. Approx on prices. Later I want to do more accurate costing,
    less shipping component. Could be $1200 spend as I have a lot of parts here from before.

    Kenwood head unit. $150
    1/2 din processor. To decide later
    Neotech RCA. Have plenty of these.:thumbup:
    Budget Soundstream amps. 1x has arrived. $140 each. Mount under front seat. Not decided
    2 Farad capacitor $73 :shock::Paranoid::Paranoid: Yeah I know lol. But in my defense. Reviews on better and bigger ones? Customers thought ripped off.
    ie less capacity than the 5 farad they bought. Check first on charging time. Could be front amp duty.
    MUCH MUCH later on front speakers. Doors are 5x7 speakers.
    Have home speakers here I do not use. 6 ohm iirc. Carbon fibre mids. Bi-amp combo's. A 6 channel set I did not like. EQ them? Better?
    Woofers bottom of doors. 8 " Boston. Much later with this. Do rear of car first.

    Nakamichi amp above. $180. Rear fill. No idea yet.
    6x9 JBL not arrive yet.
    12 " Fusion budget subs arrived today. $70 each :shock::Paranoid: lol I know. Not expect much. Sealed boxes so I don't rip the surrounds apart. :D
     
  16. Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Since you doh't want to vibrate your teeth out, you'd have maybe been better with 10" subs for more crack and less boom. I wouldn't bother with the 8" in the doors either, but that's hardly an expert opinion.

    Are the 5x7"s split? Front doors split system pretty much mandatory IMHO. Those and sound proofing absolute first thing to deal with, and the most expensive, in any build for me.

    Caps are a bit old school, but I get the need. I had the old flashing headlights going all the time on a healthy battery and 90A alternator. I just happened to have another purpose for a second battery anyway though, so I solved the problem by adding a rear battery and running the Amps off that. Looked a bit silly having a battery box in the boot of the Kia but it's not like anyone could see anyway.

    I also think less is more, provided you use the right components. Louder isn't necessarily better, though I do love a bit of antisocial behaviour occasionally ;). More speakers doesn't mean always better sound either. Always nice to have excess power available, so you hit max desired volume without stretching the amp. I'd go with class D, but Ive never used a tube amp so can't compare. Quality modern class D's are pretty decent.
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Budget system now :( had big sound systems in my youth. :Paranoid: Turning old fart soon.
    The12 inch. That will be for laughs :D Pound my passenger to death.
    Fit rear corners of boot. With a tube idea into the compartment. Not conventional sit a box behind the seat. P2200142.JPG
    I do have decent Boston Pro 10's
     
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    shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Have these surrounds, 6 boxes. Seen next to no use in 25 years. Might as well try them out as splits in the car.
    OR I can pay $300 for some new ones :lol:

    P2200143.JPG
     
  19. BIG DWIFTER

    BIG DWIFTER Member

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    Go with some of the morel Maximo 6 splits or Focal access series if on a budget.

    Those bookshelves will be 6-8 ohm and you'll get low power output from the amp compared with some 4ohm splits.

    Pioneer champion series amps otherwise you know you'd be better off with a taramps 3000watt RMS for like $400.

    You don't need capacitors unless you're alternator is from 1970.

    Get some component 5x7s if you must. Focal access series so you can match the rears would be nice.

    I'd say having a separate crossed over tweeter in the front as suggested above is a necessity.

    I had to compromise and have different manufacturers for my fronts and rears in my current system, as I can only have 6" splits up front. Went with Focal flax splits for the rears, JL splits front.

    What a mistake mixing was just like home audio. The crossovers and sound are different. I've already upgraded the rears once too so don't really want to change them again. If I do they'll get downgraded to some JLs. No focal 6" splits:(
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2024
  20. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    there's no need for valve or class A/AB amps these days, anything class D from the last 10-15 years is great, no one can tell unless they're a brand/class snob and have seen what you're running becuase they sure as shit won't hear the difference.

    no need for a cap. they just (poorly) bandaid the real problem which is insufficient power/ground cabling.
     
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