Cheap 3D Printers?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Aussiejuggalo, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. igoforthebest

    igoforthebest Member

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    Not $150 for sure lol
    I'll let you know in the evening. Will have to run it through the slicer to see how long it'll take to print and how much material.
     
  2. pinchies

    pinchies Member

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    I'm confused - why not laser cut out of wood or acrylic?
     
  3. miicah

    miicah Member

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    Is there a kit that is dirt cheap to get me started? Not concerned if it's 100% diy
     
  4. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    A friend asked me the same question. Last time I got acrylic cut, it was pretty expensive. It wasn't CNC though, it appeared to be hand cut, so maybe I was just burned.

    From everything that has been said, I'm leaning towards an Anycubic i3 Mega. It prints ABS, and is *just* big enough for my needs. I would have liked a CR10, or CR10 mini even for the extra dollars, but the heat bed only gets to 100*C and a fair few reviews say they can't print ABS without some hacking, like building their own hood, etc.
     
  5. pinchies

    pinchies Member

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    Let me know if you need something cut cheaper... ;)

    Anycubic i3 Mega is a solid choice from what I've seen. Don't expect ABS miracles without a full enclosure though.
     
  6. pinchies

    pinchies Member

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    I recommend something like a VORON or Hypercube Evolution, just can be a bit expensive getting mech parts into melb. That's why I think buying an Tronxy X5S or a Folgertech FT5 is a better starting place, and then upgrade from there.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2018
  7. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    Committed. Anycubic i3 Mega should be here between Monday and Friday next week.
     
    ShadowBurger and nibennett like this.
  8. nibennett

    nibennett Member

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    Congrats on joining the 3d printer group.
    Good luck in printing the part from above. (I assume you no longer need a quote)

    These guys do some pretty good prices, decent quality filament and are local (Melbourne based). (I'm up to about 12 rolls of their stuff I've had now since i got my printer in April.)
    They were recommended to me by someone else on here.
    https://3dfillies.com/
     
  9. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    Thanks mate. Yeah, no point with a quote now. Thanks for the advice and willingness though.
     
  10. ir0nhide

    ir0nhide Member

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    You'll find printing those standoffs will require a steep learning curve; threads especially can be a little tricky to get right. That might be what caused the quotes to be so high.

    Regardless, have fun!
     
  11. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    they don't realy need to be threads. If I could be precise enough, I could just make them studs.

    What makes threads work or not work, out of interest? Getting temps right? print speed? these are included standard as part of TinkerCAD, so I presume not the specification...
     
  12. ir0nhide

    ir0nhide Member

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    Cylinders are easy, threads are hard. The sharp edges require a very low layer height to improve resolution, and thin layers can be tricky when the new layer melts into the previous one. Stringing can also be a problem unless your retraction is really dialled in. PETG is a bitch for stringing.
     
  13. mtma

    mtma Member

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    You would be better off putting a hole in the risen object that will accept a screw over printing a thread.

    It's actually not so straightforward.

    Skip to 7m40s if not interested in methods and other things.


    Though as it stands, at over 150 degrees none of the materials would be useful in a lot of cases.

    PLA gets a rap as a beginner's print material but it has some deep and useful quirks that make it quite useful.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2018 at 9:13 PM

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