Cheap 3D Printers?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Aussiejuggalo, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. igoforthebest

    igoforthebest Member

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    Not $150 for sure lol
    I'll let you know in the evening. Will have to run it through the slicer to see how long it'll take to print and how much material.
     
  2. pinchies

    pinchies Member

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    I'm confused - why not laser cut out of wood or acrylic?
     
  3. miicah

    miicah Member

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    Is there a kit that is dirt cheap to get me started? Not concerned if it's 100% diy
     
  4. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    A friend asked me the same question. Last time I got acrylic cut, it was pretty expensive. It wasn't CNC though, it appeared to be hand cut, so maybe I was just burned.

    From everything that has been said, I'm leaning towards an Anycubic i3 Mega. It prints ABS, and is *just* big enough for my needs. I would have liked a CR10, or CR10 mini even for the extra dollars, but the heat bed only gets to 100*C and a fair few reviews say they can't print ABS without some hacking, like building their own hood, etc.
     
  5. pinchies

    pinchies Member

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    Let me know if you need something cut cheaper... ;)

    Anycubic i3 Mega is a solid choice from what I've seen. Don't expect ABS miracles without a full enclosure though.
     
  6. pinchies

    pinchies Member

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    I recommend something like a VORON or Hypercube Evolution, just can be a bit expensive getting mech parts into melb. That's why I think buying an Tronxy X5S or a Folgertech FT5 is a better starting place, and then upgrade from there.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2018
  7. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    Committed. Anycubic i3 Mega should be here between Monday and Friday next week.
     
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  8. nibennett

    nibennett Member

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    Congrats on joining the 3d printer group.
    Good luck in printing the part from above. (I assume you no longer need a quote)

    These guys do some pretty good prices, decent quality filament and are local (Melbourne based). (I'm up to about 12 rolls of their stuff I've had now since i got my printer in April.)
    They were recommended to me by someone else on here.
    https://3dfillies.com/
     
  9. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    Thanks mate. Yeah, no point with a quote now. Thanks for the advice and willingness though.
     
  10. ir0nhide

    ir0nhide Member

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    You'll find printing those standoffs will require a steep learning curve; threads especially can be a little tricky to get right. That might be what caused the quotes to be so high.

    Regardless, have fun!
     
  11. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    they don't realy need to be threads. If I could be precise enough, I could just make them studs.

    What makes threads work or not work, out of interest? Getting temps right? print speed? these are included standard as part of TinkerCAD, so I presume not the specification...
     
  12. ir0nhide

    ir0nhide Member

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    Cylinders are easy, threads are hard. The sharp edges require a very low layer height to improve resolution, and thin layers can be tricky when the new layer melts into the previous one. Stringing can also be a problem unless your retraction is really dialled in. PETG is a bitch for stringing.
     
  13. mtma

    mtma Member

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    You would be better off putting a hole in the risen object that will accept a screw over printing a thread.

    It's actually not so straightforward.

    Skip to 7m40s if not interested in methods and other things.


    Though as it stands, at over 150 degrees none of the materials would be useful in a lot of cases.

    PLA gets a rap as a beginner's print material but it has some deep and useful quirks that make it quite useful.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2018
  14. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    just ordered myself a Creality Ender 3. Toss up was between:
    • cheap Delta (~$200)
    • Creality Ender 3 (~$300)
    • Anycubic 3D (~$420)
    • Flashforge Inventor II (~$800)
    Ended up eliminating the Delta (too cheap, too much hassle) and the Flashforge (just a bit too expensive for no heated bed and only printing PLA). Decided on the Creality over the Anycubic because the feature set seemed to be basically identical considering more than $100 difference in price - bar the nice touch-screen on the Anycubic.

    As well, the v-rail frame on the Creality seems a bit more friendly to mods and repairs, has better knobs for bed levelling, and is totally integrated so I can move the entire unit, whereas the Anycubic has a cheap acrylic standalone spool holder.

    https://all3dp.com/1/creality-ender-3-3d-printer-review/
     
  15. JSmithDTV

    JSmithDTV New Member

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    [​IMG]

    :)

    JSmith
     
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  16. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    The Creality Ender 3 arrived - that was some damn quick postage. Setup was genuinely a breeze and I was impressed with the quality of every single component. The stupid rotary encoder is as unpleasant to use as they've always been and the white-on-blue LCD looks pretty outdated, but that's what you get on a $300 printer. I didn't bother with the included filament sample which was poorly received in reviews and instead fitted it up with a 1kg roll of Creality 3D PLA (not sure if it's actually the same stuff as the included filament but it seems to print nicely). Unfortunately I found during bed leveling that the bed is not actually flat. It's slightly concave, with the corners higher than the center by up to 1.0mm which is actually a lot. As a result it's impossible to correctly level the bed at the centre without the nozzle touching the corners. (EDIT: just found a reddit post reporting that cold causes the bed to warp - setting the bed heat to 50degC should alleviate the problem completely. Will report back whether this works for me.) Nonetheless I was able to make some adjustments to the bed height during the brim printing of the included demo dog .gcode file. You can see in the photo below that the outer lines are not adhered to the bed properly. Those big adjustment knobs really do make it very easy to adjust the bed height though and with the first layer set correctly, the rest of the layers went off without a hitch.

    I was very, very impressed with the quality and resolution of the print. Can't wait to do some more

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2018
  17. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    Wow. 1.0mm is a mile in 3D printing. A lot of the stuff I want to print needs to be absolutely flat.

    Can you not send that part back for replacement?

    I should provide a review of my Anycubic Mega i3 as well, but since I bought it based on other people recommending it, I may well be preaching to the choir.

    I guess unless anyone wants details, I'll keep the detail very brief.

    I too was impressed by my 3D printer. It feels really solid, assembly took about 10 minutes, levelling took 10 minutes (and I'm sure 8 of that was me being OCD - There was movable friction on the spacing paper on all 4 corners after the first pass, but I thought one corner was a bit rougher than others... So we're probably talking less than 1/10th of a turn on the adjustment screw to get them equal) and it was heated up and printing in under 5.

    Detail on the test print Owl was very good. Striations on the print were just visible (like the photos above), but when you run your fingers over it, no tactile response.

    It is slower than I expected, but playing with layer thickness and infill have sped it up somewhat.

    It is also a bit noisy. You can hear the belts whirring and it seems to beep a fair bit.
     
  18. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    The Anycubic sounds pretty similar to my kit. How do you find the touch screen?

    Mine is also pretty noisy - it reverberates through the desk and even with my office door shut, my bedroom door shut, and the fan on it still was loud enough to keep me awake. I sat it on a sheet of the foam it was packed in which was very effective at making it quieter... might have to look at building an enclosure for it though.

    Not too sure what I'll do with that... I'll hit up banggood and see what they say. I did find a reddit post with a number of users having the same issue and it one of them says heating the bed up to 50degC removes the warp. Hopefully that's the solution
     
  19. Sunder

    Sunder Member

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    Touch Screen is extremely intuitive. There's only 3 buttons on home (print, set up, tools) and about 3-4 items under each one. You can preheat the printer, set over-rides for print speed, etc.

    Using it to select a job is easy. It just shows as a list, and you tap on the one you want. You can pause and resume using the touch screen too. I'm going to try this feature to embed some electronics inside a case, rather than go through the effort of making two halves and sticking them together. (I have a QC3.0 handshake generator that I was using to get 12v from USB ports. I use it to charge my Microsoft surface. It works well, but right now, it is only protected by heat sink.)

    I don't think the touch screen is "necessary", but I'm not sure how you'd do stuff like preheat, pause, change filament mid print etc, without it.
     
  20. ShadowBurger

    ShadowBurger Member

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    Nice, good to know... I'll have a look into upgrading mine. The screen on mine is a black and white dot-matrix setup with a knob you can turn and press to navigate menus. But the knob sucks - you turn it one click and it moves two places. You press it in and it moves instead of registering a 'click'.

    Plus the frame is ugly af:

    [​IMG]
     

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