Cheap 3D Printers?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Aussiejuggalo, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    All normal issues with Creality printers. My bed was crap which is why I got a custom one, bowden connectors on mine seem ok, will be replacing them though, the stock board is very very basic with crap all space so the no bootloader is normal to save space. Also don't forget to enable thermal run away protection... it doesn't come enabled stock.
     
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  2. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Another thing I noticed on opening the Ender 5 up, was that it does NOT have a Meanwell power supply like the latest Ender 3 does.
     
  3. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    That's interesting, it was meant to have a Meanwell... I'd be contacting Creality and asking wtf.

    Also looks like the Ender 5 is now on AliExpress, $475 from China with free DHL shipping for the next 11 hours, normal price is $587.
     
  4. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I paid $A508 for mine direct from Creality after an Aliexpress seller wanted to charge me a $US60 remote fee on top of the 'free' shipping.
     
  5. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Pretty happy with my printer so far. Did the bed of nail test on the weekend and pretty much nailed it(Pun intended). :lol: So far the only adjustments I’ve made is put a silicone seal in the resin vat to stop leaks. And it’s worked wonderfully. I ordered a 1mm silicone mat from eBay for kitchen use and cut that up instead of buying seals. Works the same and only cost me $8 for A3 size sheet.
    upload_2019-3-5_14-15-4.jpeg
     
  6. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Been doing some testing of eSuns Purple Silk PLA today, found out it likes to be printed hot to get the best shine, speed doesn't seem to matter.

    Video I did showing the results:



    Edit, here's a more practical view of the temp differences:


    Click to view full size!


    Jacinth (orange) was printed at 200c, Purple was 210c both 60mm/s. Jacinth has basically no shine while Purple is nice and shiny.

    I've been using silicone mats for sticking under the printer / prints when I pop them off and clean them, so much easier than paper towel because you can just cure the resin on them then peel it off :D.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2019
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  7. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Oh right! I get what you mean! Took a minute but yeh that's a great idea! :D I pop the whole print bed in a large ice cream container and scrape the print off there. Then wash the whole tub when I'm done. Left over resin can cure in there I don't really care :D. I made a new scraper out of bits of acrylics i have lying around. Acrylic can be sharpen better than the ABS scrapper that it comes with. The edge needs to be pretty sharp to remove those prints. Far less effort required to remove prints with my acrylic scraper than the ABS one hehe. Previously I had to use a knife to remove the print sometimes. Not too keen on that since it does scratch the plate. I've sanded it down again but few scratches remains. Don't think it affects the print tho.
     
  8. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    I always pop mine off the build plate then spray them with IPA and give them a scrub over the sink (yeah yeah I know not the best thing to do with chemicals), don't like sticking prints in a tub of IPA, seems a waste of IPA.

    I've got a few cheapo ABS scrappers from Bunnings but I use a Stanley FatMax chisel to get prints off. Gotta be careful with it though, sharp bastard it is. Seen a guy on the Photon Facebook group who has chunks out of his build plate and it still works fine apparently but not something I want to try.
     
  9. RyoSaeba

    RyoSaeba Member

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    Oh I've been using water washable resins. Haven't even tried the regular resins yet. I do have 2L of IPA sitting in the cupboard if I need to. But cleaning with IPA is just another point of annoyance I'd rather bypass where I can. General resin printing I'll try to use water washable as much as I can. In future if I want to use more specialized resins like more flexible, stronger etc. that needs IPA, I'll figure it out then. :D Yeh the print bed is aluminium. It's pretty soft. I'm a little scared to use any sharp metalic objects on it. Was desperately scraping with the ABS, now the acrylic one is far far sharper. Also I have a whole box of off cuts, I can easily cut another piece and sharpen it if this piece I'm using ever break or gets sanded down to nothingness lol.
     
  10. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I like the look of that, just placed an order for some red silk. Also going to give the marble a try.
    EDIT: Mentioned it to a friend and we ended up with a $300 order!
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2019
  11. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    I've just got Anycubic and Monocure stuff, haven't bothered with the water resins yet, waiting for eSuns "PLA" resin ;).

    Yeah beds pretty soft and seeing the chisel I use is hardened steel I gotta be pretty careful, I use the ABS one mostly on the FEP if I can't push the FEP to get the bits off it.

    The red looks amazing, I've only got the Jacinth, Purple and Blue. I'd recommend printing a test print first to get the temps right, the video doesn't really show it but from 200 - 210 & 210 - 220 the shine is noticeably different. I'll try it with the Jacinth today and see how it reacts to higher temps.
     
  12. s4mmy

    s4mmy Member

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    Has anyone here done the Marlin firmware update on an Ender 3?
    I don't have the gear to install a bootloader so im kind of stuck.

    Wondering if anyone has one I can borrow instead of having to buy.
     
  13. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    All you need is an Arduino and some male to female dupoint cables, it's like $20 worth of stuff at most.

    I plan on doing mine sometime soon just not sure when.
     
  14. s4mmy

    s4mmy Member

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    Yeah, looks like i'll just order the parts. I got an EZABL auto leveling kit so need to flash.
     
  15. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    I had trouble trying to add a bootloader to my Ender 5. Tried with 3 different Arduinos, failed every time.
    I did manage to flash the latest Marlin to my MKS Gen L board which will be installed soon.
     
  16. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    The 10 reels of various types if eSun filament arrived yesterday (not all of it was for me!)
    So far, I've only tried out the silk PLA and I'm impressed - thanks to Aussiejuggalo for the video of various temperature/speed settings. I got best results (so far) from 60mm/s and 210°C.
    Different infill patterns amke a difference. I was using grid infile (Cura) but the vertical lines show on the outer walls. Trying it again with a concentric infill
    Tomorrow, I'll try out the PETG and the marble PLA. The TPU might have to wait until I upgrade the extruder.

    [I'll try to take some photos but I don't have a lot of success photographing 3d prints.]
     

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  17. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    10 rolls of eSun? beat me by 1 roll :lol:. The silk is nice, I've noticed the Jacinth likes slightly higher temps than the purple and I have yet to try the blue, really gotta get more of the silk, it's awesome and cheap. One warning, I also had some eSun glass and when I went to print it I realised the whole roll is full of moisture so until I dry it, it's useless. Check the desiccant bags when you open a roll, if it feels damp in any way, the roll may need to be dried.

    Taking photos isn't that hard, just make sure you have decent lighting and a solid colour backdrop, don't want distracting things in the background. The photos I've been posting have been taken with a $17 light tent from eBay and my phone camera in manual mode (auto works fine as well), quick and easy to set up.

    You can get a bunch of cheap light tents, lighting etc from eBay for basically nothing or make your own setup with LED strips, cardboard box with the inside painted white and something for the backdrop like a t-shirt or sheet.
     
  18. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    After a few tries playing around with speed, temperature and layer height, managed to produce the first PETG print.
    Print was a little brittle and lifted slightly at the corners, Another attempt with a higher bed temperature seems to be going better.
     

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  19. whatisk

    whatisk Member

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    What replacement bed did you get for the Ender 3?
     
  20. rockofclay

    rockofclay Member

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    I made mine from an Arduino nano, 3 resistors, 3 LEDs and a set of dupont plugs. I can post up a circuit if you want. You only really need the nano and the pin headers the LED's are just for status. Nanos go for a ~3 bucks on Ebay. If you're near Mulgrave I can give you one.

    I can shoot you my copy of Marlin if you want, but I didn't do much different from Teaching Techs guide. Doing it for bed levelling?

    Sweet, they're just around the corner from me so I'll have to pick some up. My first and only order was PLA+ from 3D fillies and it seems to be good. I did get some brass fill which is pretty shiny!

    I got one of these glass beds. The print surface leaves a pattern on prints, so I use the underside. Had to remove the adhesive though, reasonably easy enough to do.

    I will probably try out one of these soon. Steel sheet so you can flex parts off, but should be a better quality bed than stock.
     

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