Cheap 3D Printers?

Discussion in 'Hobby Engineering' started by Aussiejuggalo, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Can anyone suggest a supplier of TMC2208 drivers?
    I'm looking for ones that have the chip on the underside of the board and have the SPI/uart pins broken out correctly.
    I've spent a frustrating 20minutes on Aliexpress without being able to find ones that meed these simple criteria.
    I might end up going with Watterrott (german) brand from Digikey. These are about $11. I will have to provide and solder the pins in as well as source the heat-sinks so it's not the cheapest option.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2019
  2. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    If you already had the Gen L then the stock board with 2208 drivers would be a downgrade, you'd have to mess around with firmware and limit what you could use.

    Check Banggood, you can get lots of 4 or 5 drivers cheapish and most come with the big heatsinks.
     
  3. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    These BigTreeTech one are supplied with unsoldered pins so I can set them up to be programmable via the MKS board servo pins. Price is OK too.

    EDIT: Placed an order for these - $30 for 5. Also cancelled the order for the Creality controller upgrade.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2019
  4. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    DSTM (Dougie) and RyoSaeba like this.
  5. larszoe

    larszoe Member

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    That's some good painting skills. Looks awesome to me haha

    Pretty sure I'm gonna get a Ender 3, where's the best place to order one to ensure I get one with in the latest build?

    Ender 3 is the way to go right compared to the Ender 3 Pro? Just need to upgrade the power supply myself? I'm gonna cut my own glass bed anyways.
     
  6. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Direct from Creality is my suggestion. Ender 3 Pro is $US239/$A341, Ender 3 is $US209/$A298 both free shipping. My ENder 5 took a little under 3 weekd to arrive.
     
  7. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Thanks. Yeah it doesn't look to bad but it's not fantastic, brush painting airbrush paints is like painting with milk, needs heaps of coats to fill in lighter colours.

    You can get it from Creality, Bangood, Aliexpress or Gearbest. You'll have to hunt around for the cheapest price, also depends on how quickly you want it. If you buy direct from Creality you should get the new 1.1.4 board (without the 2208 drivers) which should have a bootloader so modding the firmware is much easier.

    Personally I'd go with the Pro, it has the Meanwell power supply but it also has the electronics box flipped 180°so no risk of anything dropping into it and also the Y carriage extrusion is flipped 90°so it's more solid. There's also some other little changes that I can't remember right now.
     
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  8. s4mmy

    s4mmy Member

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    Finally got around to cleaning my stuff up!

    Now I just need to get it back to do some prints! It’s been a pain to get going!
     

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  9. larszoe

    larszoe Member

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    So yeah I messaged them about this and they said their printers won't come with the new 1.1.4 board until mid May. Though seeing tumutbound, how you got the run around from them with just getting the board, I don't know if I wanna wait for like 3 weeks and then find out is going to be longer. Hmm what do you guys think? I just want thermal runaway protection down the line, and I don't own a arduino or raspberry pi nor the know how to use them so blah.
     
  10. grrrr

    grrrr Member

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    So I impulsed purchased a Tevo Tornado last night on ebay for $385. Pretty exciting.

    While behind me on a bench is my mates 3d printer that I / we are fixing up. Just upgraded the K8200 to a MKS Gen L 1.0 board. Upgraded the wiring to 1mm2, upgraded the PSU to 24VDC, fixed some Z alignment issues and now it is looking like it will print good again.

    This was a pain to get going as well. It has been broken for about 2 yrs. And at my place for about 3 months.
     
  11. cyrax83

    cyrax83 Member

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    I put 2208's on my SKRv1.3 Board configured in UART mode. Wow they are so silent it's amazing.

    Only issue is the March 2019 BLTouch v3.0 is faulty. The pin sometimes retracts too early before the hitting the bed (seems random during probing sometimes it happens at the start, sometimes middle, sometimes end of probing, sometimes not at all). Tried all the settings in Marlin 2.0, resoldering and taking the wiring out of the loom to ensure it isn't any signal interference. No success. Have an on-going Aliexpress dispute with BIGTREETECH as they are saying it's not faulty somehow.
     
  12. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Well it was only a matter of time but I managed to jam the hotend :mad:. The PTFE slipped in the coupler making a gap, it also caused the filament to jam up the PTFE tube which caused the PTFE to jam somewhere in the hotend making the whole thing a pain to remove.

    When I fuck up I really fuck up :lol:.

    Luckily I've got a spare hotend I can swap it in while I clean up this one and it gives me a reason to rewire everything, install the Hero Me duct and Capricorn tubing with the better couplers.
     
  13. tumutbound

    tumutbound Member

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    Been there, done that. Really helps to have that spare hotend :lol:
    Looking forward to getting the E3D V6 installed so I can do away with the PTFE.
    Still tossing up over the HeroMe vs Bullseye.
     
  14. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Yeah lucky I bought a spare. Not sure if the nozzle is fused in place, I hope not.

    I completely destroyed an E3D V6 Lite a couple of months ago because the PTFE didn't go into it, PLA all through the thing :(. That's the thing I don't like about PLA when it jams, not as simple as chucking it in Acetone like ABS and letting it melt away. However apparently Ethyl Acetate or Dichloromethane can "smooth" PLA like Acetone can for ABS so I wonder if it'll soften it enough to unjam nozzles. Gonna have to try sometime soon...

    I went the HeroMe because it it's more compact and it doesn't have as long an air channel for the blower but that's just me.
     
  15. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    Is it just me or does the BLTouch really not compensate very well at all? My current bed "level" it's as flat as I can get it using the paper method, also much better than it was yesterday but the BLTouch doesn't compensate very well at lower layer heights. Not sure if the Wham Bam is throwing it out a bit but it seem flat.


    Click to view full size!


    Done using the 3x3 grid, here's the actual numbers:

    0 0 -0.150 -0.135 -0.150
    118 118 -0.023 +0.017 +0.020
    235 235 -0.003 -0.010 -0.063

    Seems like anything under 0.2mm it wont print great, tried 0.12mm and it was a mess (let's not talk about 0.08mm), to stuck in some places, not enough in others, I was printing a few big flat things though (currently doing a Halo pistol :leet:), smaller things more central print okish (mostly).
     
  16. cuahtemoc

    cuahtemoc Member

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    Unless you're trying to print onto jelly, your bed surface plays no role with how well the BLTouch works, it's a pin physically touching the print surface.

    What gcode are you using at the start of your prints ? If there's a homing command after your bed levelling then the mesh gets discarded. Have you set your Z offset correctly too ? Here's an excellent guide:



    Here's my starting gcode script for an Ender 3 with BLTouch, works great:

    G28 ; home all axes
    M117 Purge extruder
    G92 E0 ; reset extruder
    G29 ; BLTouch Mesh Generation
    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
    G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
    G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
    G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
    G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
    ; G1 E27 F3000 ; retract filament 3mm
    G92 E0 ; reset extruder
    ; done purging extruder
    G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
    M117 Printing...

    This is my current first layer quality with PETG
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2019
  17. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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    3DMN's vid is what I followed to get the Z height, I also levelled the bed as much as possible so the BLTouch doesn't have that much work to do.

    My start code is this:

    G28 ; home all axes
    G29 ; auto level
    M117 Purge extruder
    G92 E0 ; reset extruder
    G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
    G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
    G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
    G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
    G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
    ; G1 E27 F3000 ; retract filament 3mm
    G92 E0 ; reset extruder
    ; done purging extruder
    G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface

    I'll have to try 0.12mm layers again and see if it was just wet filament (hate how hygroscopic PLA is). I also realised I don't have baby stepping enabled, I might enable that so I can tweak on the fly, also might do a 5x5 grid instead of the 3x3.
     
  18. OP
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    Aussiejuggalo

    Aussiejuggalo Member

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